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I'm running a stock (Heavy Duty 12v) coil in my daily '73 Dart without ballast resistor.
If I reconnect the ballast resistor, the car starts to stumble at idle and die when put in Drive. I probably have the wrong resistor, but since I disconnected it everything still seems to work fine.
The coil's temp climbs right along with the engine intake's temp.


Today I decided to install a MSD Blaster 2 coil (also without ballast).
After starting the engine I let it run for a couple of minutes and used my infrared tempgauge and pointed it at the coil... It was already at 130-140F and climbing. I kept the engine idling for awhile to see where the temp would end up at and it went up to around 176F when I called it quits.

To me it's obvious the Blaster coil really needs a ballast resistor when used in a daily driver.


Has anyone ever measured the temp of a coil here?




I decided to try to run my MP electronic ignition with the BR shorted as an experiment. The BB engine seemed to run better to me. It was smoother and seemed more responsive. I used a IR temp unit to measure the 12V coil's temp and it ranged from 210 on the bottom to 245 at the top. Its mounted on the intake which measured 175. I searched the net, but could not find a spec for coil temps - anybody have a clue on what is considered too hot?





Bringing this topic up from the basement where I found it again;

I've been running my Blaster 2 coil for a good while now with a 1 Ohm ballast, but recently I started noticing the engine missing a cylinder once in a while while idling.
Plugs were near perfect, so checking up on the voltage at the coil I noticed it was just around a mere 5 volts.

Decided to try running the coil without a BR again but found it's temp climbing fast again while idling with an open hood. At 185° coiltemp I found that was high enough.
I installed an older, stock, but 12v rated coil, running without a BR for the time being.

The main difference since last time I tried this is that the car now has a way better charging system, which is actually putting out 14 - 14.4 volts.

I'm now looking locally for a 0,25 Ohm BR to install as I don't feel comfortable running the car with a 'glowing' hot Blaster coil under the hood.


Anyone know if you can use an E-core coil with a Mopar Chrome ECU?

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