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Rebuilding Sixpack carbs #992611
05/15/11 07:22 AM
05/15/11 07:22 AM
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 263
Switzerland, Europe
Swiss_Robert Offline OP
enthusiast
Swiss_Robert  Offline OP
enthusiast

Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 263
Switzerland, Europe
With a lot of help from some of you guys I'm now close to the rebuild of my three 2300 carbs (1970 Challenger 440 SixPack).

I still have two questions:

I have to remove the throttle shafts since there is dirt in their bearings and I'm sure I should clean those. So I have to remove the throttle flaps. But the rebuild kits (3-396) seem not to contain those 4 little brass screws that fix the two flaps to each shaft. Since they are "bent" (smashed) on their tips to be secured, I think it's wise to grind their tips off before removing them - but then I need new ones... Should I just look for some similar screws? Will iron be okay? Or where can I get twelve of those brass screws???

The secondary vacuum pots are working well. I know I will destroy the vacuum membrans when I open them. Inspecting the borders of the membrans that stick out over the cover shows that those are a bit brickly - cause they're old and were outside of the pot...
Replace them or leave them alone?

And, finally, I'm still looking for a float bowl with inlet from the right side (one of mines has inlet on the left what looks very odd since it takes a fuel line to go to the other side). It's one of the outboarders, so it has the pump-hole closed. Does anyone may have such a bowl flying arround and want to sell it???

Thanks!!


After all these years having a 440 I realized that this means having an attitude... and a budget.
Re: Rebuilding Sixpack carbs [Re: Swiss_Robert] #992612
05/15/11 10:48 AM
05/15/11 10:48 AM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 6,446
NJ-USA
H
HPMike Offline
master
HPMike  Offline
master
H

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 6,446
NJ-USA
Replace the rubbers in the diaphragm housings. SOP on any overhaul of these carbs. You might also consider changing the springs. I couldn't give you a suggestion on color(rate of opening) witout knowing more about the build. If you want to get fancy with tuning, you can drill and tap the kill bleed hole to accept a Holley adjustable air bleed screw. Then you can really play with the secondary opening. If it's a pretty much stock build, I might just opt for yellow or purple springs.

If you are careful, you can unscrew those throttle blades and reuse the screws. Don't do anything to them first. Just find a screwdriver that fits the head real well and take out the screws-they will "unstake" themselves as you wind them out. When you reinstall the screws, just re-stake them from the backside. A little red loctite on the threads works well here too for extra insurance. Make sure that when you go to stake the screws, you "back up" the shaft from the opposite side to avoid any damage to the shaft. It doesn't take much to hurt those, but if you are careful, you can do it successfully. Always check the fitment of the throttle plate to bores as you do this as there is a little bit of float with these and you have to find the spot where they dont bind up befre you lock them down tight.

The bowl you have is probably off a Chevrolet. They were on the drivers side.

MB







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