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I would replace the housing ends and run custom axles with Green wheel bearings.

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I would replace the housing ends and run custom axles with Green wheel bearings.

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So is there stuff to upgrade your 9 1/4 so it can handle 700 hp or are you better off going to a Dana.

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I'm sure there are some drive train experts on this sight that can shed some light on your question, but in my opinion: If there is a weak link with the 9 1/4, I would say it is the "C" clip axle retention system. The diff itself is plenty stout to handle 700HP and well beyond. Definitely stronger than the 8 3/4 in every respect. Problem is it came mostly in truck applications. Early muscle cars came with the 8 3/4 or the Dana 60, so most up grade / after market stuff was directed towards those 2 axles. Although you can now buy gears up to at least 4.56:1 for the 9 1/4, no one makes a spool for it yet and it appears no "C" clip eliminator kits - you have to have something special made? My car, like many late B body cars, came with the 9 1/4. Way overkill for the HP these cars were making from the factory. They may eventually be utilized more in the drag racing arena, simply because they are plentifull, cheap, and strong enough to handle some HP.

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Dana 60 out of 93 Dodge RAM 250 HD. I know for a fact the ones Norfolk Southern had had the Dana 60 HD and had the tone ring. HAD HAD HAD LOL

Just find one of these and buy axles and housing ends. Or just buy a complete rear with brakes for $1,500. Pyle Bros used to advertise these in ND.
Leon

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As in...Ditch the 9.25

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Dana 60 housing and a trip to Comp Chassis in Glendale and it was problem solved for me!

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Who has installed them in a 9 1/4? Are they necessary for an 11 second car? Thanks, John

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The real need for the eliminators has NOTHING to do with the c-clips - the clips don't fail, they don't pop out, and the button doesn't break off the end - it's a failure elsewhere that is the problem. What breaks is the axle itself - an axle of that strength would fail, c-clip or not. Granted, once the axle breaks, then you can lose the wheel/tire and the problem starts, but it wasn't the clips that failed. Put in strong enough axles and the clips are never an issue. Sometimes the whole diff explodes; again, nothing to do with the c-clips. As to your situation, I'd look into stronger axles for the most bang-for-the-buck. If your wallet allows, the strongest way is as others have mentioned - new ends, bearings, and axles.

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I've already got the locker. Are the billet ends, green bearings and custom axles readily available? Or is it all custom made to fit, one at a time special build stuff.

Can I pick up the phone and just order these?

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I've already got the locker. Are the billet ends, green bearings and custom axles readily available? Or is it all custom made to fit, one at a time special build stuff.

Can I pick up the phone and just order these?

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With extra butter, please

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Housing ends are off the shelf. Custom axles are 3-4 day turn around.

All I need to know is your desired housing or assembly width and bolt pattern.

Ford 9" (Daytona) crush sleeve eliminator kit works nicely with a slight modification. 1350 U-bolt yokes are also readily available (29 spline 8 3/4" application).

Of course, you must have a shop change the housing ends with an alignment jig. I could probably rent out one of my jigs if someone wanted to do the fab work themselves.

Please E-mail me for more information.

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At that point they just have to make sure the ends that they use match the brakes that they have, or they will need to find new brakes.

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Thanks for the info. I'll be contacting you very soon.

I've been skirting the rules and pretending that my disc brake setup was a positive axle retention device. LOL At present - my rig doesn't hook well enough to break the axles, but there's always a first time and I don't want to be along for the ride. It broke the factory LSD carrier in half on a good launch so that's where the locker came from. Hopefully the backing plates for the disc brakes will still work with the new housing ends.

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Doesnt the 9-1/4 have a "necked down" axle that gets pretty small near the splines?

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Yes, Don't have the sizes in front of me, but they are BIG axles, even in the spline area. BTW, when I went to install 4.56 gears a few weeks ago, I had to grind the corner off of one tooth in order to slide the center pin in. Didn't have to do that with the 4.10 or smaller ( numerically ) ratios that I have used in the past?? If someone were to come up with a kit where I could use my existing brakes, that would be great.