"C" clip eliminators.

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I would replace the housing ends and run custom axles with Green wheel bearings.

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Dana 60 out of 93 Dodge RAM 250 HD. I know for a fact the ones Norfolk Southern had had the Dana 60 HD and had the tone ring. HAD HAD HAD LOL

Just find one of these and buy axles and housing ends. Or just buy a complete rear with brakes for $1,500. Pyle Bros used to advertise these in ND.
Leon

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As in...Ditch the 9.25

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Dana 60 housing and a trip to Comp Chassis in Glendale and it was problem solved for me!

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Who has installed them in a 9 1/4? Are they necessary for an 11 second car? Thanks, John

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The real need for the eliminators has NOTHING to do with the c-clips - the clips don't fail, they don't pop out, and the button doesn't break off the end - it's a failure elsewhere that is the problem. What breaks is the axle itself - an axle of that strength would fail, c-clip or not. Granted, once the axle breaks, then you can lose the wheel/tire and the problem starts, but it wasn't the clips that failed. Put in strong enough axles and the clips are never an issue. Sometimes the whole diff explodes; again, nothing to do with the c-clips. As to your situation, I'd look into stronger axles for the most bang-for-the-buck. If your wallet allows, the strongest way is as others have mentioned - new ends, bearings, and axles.

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I've already got the locker. Are the billet ends, green bearings and custom axles readily available? Or is it all custom made to fit, one at a time special build stuff.

Can I pick up the phone and just order these?

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Housing ends are off the shelf. Custom axles are 3-4 day turn around.

All I need to know is your desired housing or assembly width and bolt pattern.

Ford 9" (Daytona) crush sleeve eliminator kit works nicely with a slight modification. 1350 U-bolt yokes are also readily available (29 spline 8 3/4" application).

Of course, you must have a shop change the housing ends with an alignment jig. I could probably rent out one of my jigs if someone wanted to do the fab work themselves.

Please E-mail me for more information.

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At that point they just have to make sure the ends that they use match the brakes that they have, or they will need to find new brakes.

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Thanks for the info. I'll be contacting you very soon.

I've been skirting the rules and pretending that my disc brake setup was a positive axle retention device. LOL At present - my rig doesn't hook well enough to break the axles, but there's always a first time and I don't want to be along for the ride. It broke the factory LSD carrier in half on a good launch so that's where the locker came from. Hopefully the backing plates for the disc brakes will still work with the new housing ends.

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Doesnt the 9-1/4 have a "necked down" axle that gets pretty small near the splines?

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Yes, Don't have the sizes in front of me, but they are BIG axles, even in the spline area. BTW, when I went to install 4.56 gears a few weeks ago, I had to grind the corner off of one tooth in order to slide the center pin in. Didn't have to do that with the 4.10 or smaller ( numerically ) ratios that I have used in the past?? If someone were to come up with a kit where I could use my existing brakes, that would be great.

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Luckily, 8 3/4" housing ends fit OEM 9 1/4" brakes.

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You can use your existing brakes as-is if you use standard 8 3/4" billet ends.

You can also use hybrid 3.15" bore Mopar housing ends and a Timken set 20 or a Ford sealed ball wheel bearing if you want to bore the center out of your original backing plates.

If a few people are interested, I could probably make a bolt-on C-clip eliminator/axle package for a 9 1/4" rearend.

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I took the hard road, Moser big ford ends, fit perfectly, Moser 31 spline axles, Moser Torino Budget brakes.

Come on Dave, You know I did this on my truck already.

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You can use your existing brakes as-is if you use standard 8 3/4" billet ends.

You can also use hybrid 3.15" bore Mopar housing ends and a Timken set 20 or a Ford sealed ball wheel bearing if you want to bore the center out of your original backing plates.

If a few people are interested, I could probably make a bolt-on C-clip eliminator/axle package for a 9 1/4" rearend.

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What is the cost of changing ends, etc on the 9.25?

How close would you be to getting a Dana 60 and being done with the issue and have a better selling point if you decide to get out?

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I looked at a few options today, and I think a 9.25" C-clip eliminator/axle package is do-able. I will start to chip away at the design.

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You can use your existing brakes as-is if you use standard 8 3/4" billet ends.

You can also use hybrid 3.15" bore Mopar housing ends and a Timken set 20 or a Ford sealed ball wheel bearing if you want to bore the center out of your original backing plates.

If a few people are interested, I could probably make a bolt-on C-clip eliminator/axle package for a 9 1/4" rearend.

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Axle forgings are not a problem.

What size of rear brakes are common on 9.25" Dakota rears?

The brake book shows 9", 10" and 11" depending on the year. Do you know if the axle flange standout, brake register diameter and brake backing plate bolt pattern is consistant?

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Are not the Dakota drum brakes the same as B body brakes.

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Every 5 lug 9 1/4" I've seen uses standard Mopar brakes.

Do you have a 6 lug Dakota rear?

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Every 5 lug 9 1/4" I've seen uses standard Mopar brakes.

Do you have a 6 lug Dakota rear?

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10" drum 6 lug on my 01 R/T. I think some of the newer years came with Disks.

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I converted my '99 Dakota to disk brakes using '94 Jeep Gran Cherokee parts. The spacing was perfect. No cutting or welding required. Just had to drill the hat for 6 lugs.

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