Re: "C" clip eliminators.
[Re: DoctorDiff]
#934237
02/22/11 09:01 PM
02/22/11 09:01 PM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,776 Ontario Canada
MattW
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master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,776
Ontario Canada
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Quote:
I would replace the housing ends and run custom axles with Green wheel bearings.
So is there stuff to upgrade your 9 1/4 so it can handle 700 hp or are you better off going to a Dana.
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Re: "C" clip eliminators.
[Re: MattW]
#934238
02/22/11 09:45 PM
02/22/11 09:45 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,330 Lynchburg, VA
Leon441
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Posts: 4,330
Lynchburg, VA
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Dana 60 out of 93 Dodge RAM 250 HD. I know for a fact the ones Norfolk Southern had had the Dana 60 HD and had the tone ring. HAD HAD HAD LOL
Just find one of these and buy axles and housing ends. Or just buy a complete rear with brakes for $1,500. Pyle Bros used to advertise these in ND.
Leon
Career best 8.02 @ 169 at 3050# and 10" tires small block power.
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Re: "C" clip eliminators.
[Re: MattW]
#934240
02/22/11 10:43 PM
02/22/11 10:43 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506 Az
Crizila
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
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Quote:
Quote:
I would replace the housing ends and run custom axles with Green wheel bearings.
So is there stuff to upgrade your 9 1/4 so it can handle 700 hp or are you better off going to a Dana.
I'm sure there are some drive train experts on this sight that can shed some light on your question, but in my opinion: If there is a weak link with the 9 1/4, I would say it is the "C" clip axle retention system. The diff itself is plenty stout to handle 700HP and well beyond. Definitely stronger than the 8 3/4 in every respect. Problem is it came mostly in truck applications. Early muscle cars came with the 8 3/4 or the Dana 60, so most up grade / after market stuff was directed towards those 2 axles. Although you can now buy gears up to at least 4.56:1 for the 9 1/4, no one makes a spool for it yet and it appears no "C" clip eliminator kits - you have to have something special made? My car, like many late B body cars, came with the 9 1/4. Way overkill for the HP these cars were making from the factory. They may eventually be utilized more in the drag racing arena, simply because they are plentifull, cheap, and strong enough to handle some HP.
Fastest 300
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Re: "C" clip eliminators.
[Re: Crizila]
#934246
02/23/11 12:35 PM
02/23/11 12:35 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,699 Newport, Mi
Evil Spirit
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Newport, Mi
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Quote:
Who has installed them in a 9 1/4? Are they necessary for an 11 second car? Thanks, John
The real need for the eliminators has NOTHING to do with the c-clips - the clips don't fail, they don't pop out, and the button doesn't break off the end - it's a failure elsewhere that is the problem. What breaks is the axle itself - an axle of that strength would fail, c-clip or not. Granted, once the axle breaks, then you can lose the wheel/tire and the problem starts, but it wasn't the clips that failed. Put in strong enough axles and the clips are never an issue. Sometimes the whole diff explodes; again, nothing to do with the c-clips. As to your situation, I'd look into stronger axles for the most bang-for-the-buck. If your wallet allows, the strongest way is as others have mentioned - new ends, bearings, and axles.
Free advice and worth every penny... Factory trained Slinky rewinder.........
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