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Re: SOLID ROLLER FOR THE STREET [Re: dodgeboy11] #907454
01/19/11 12:36 AM
01/19/11 12:36 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421
Balt. Md
3
383man Offline
Too Many Posts
383man  Offline
Too Many Posts
3

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421
Balt. Md
Quote:

The problem that most don't think about with a solid roller street combo is that street engines idle a lot more than race engines. Without the splash lubrication on the rollers, they can and will fail. And it's much more catastrophic than a flat tappet cam that goes flat. Direct oiling to the rollers is the way to go even on a mild solid roller setup. You NEED enough spring pressure to keep the roller on the lobe though. If it bounces it WILL destroy the lifter.




Thats one of the reasons my 493 going in my 63 will have a solid flat tappet cam. I drive my 63 alot on the street and I dont want to worry about any roller lifter problems. Ron

Re: SOLID ROLLER FOR THE STREET [Re: 383man] #907455
01/19/11 09:39 AM
01/19/11 09:39 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,575
The Netherlands
BigBlockMopar Offline
master
BigBlockMopar  Offline
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Posts: 3,575
The Netherlands
Quote:

Quote:

The problem that most don't think about with a solid roller street combo is that street engines idle a lot more than race engines. Without the splash lubrication on the rollers, they can and will fail. And it's much more catastrophic than a flat tappet cam that goes flat. Direct oiling to the rollers is the way to go even on a mild solid roller setup. You NEED enough spring pressure to keep the roller on the lobe though. If it bounces it WILL destroy the lifter.




Thats one of the reasons my 493 going in my 63 will have a solid flat tappet cam. I drive my 63 alot on the street and I dont want to worry about any roller lifter problems. Ron






How do all those millions of modern car-engines survive with their roller cam setups?
Do those engines all have roller-oiling mods or is it all just a bit of scare-tactics and hearsay? Just curious.

Re: SOLID ROLLER FOR THE STREET [Re: 383man] #907456
01/19/11 09:47 AM
01/19/11 09:47 AM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY Offline
Master
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Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
Quote:

Quote:

The problem that most don't think about with a solid roller street combo is that street engines idle a lot more than race engines. Without the splash lubrication on the rollers, they can and will fail. And it's much more catastrophic than a flat tappet cam that goes flat. Direct oiling to the rollers is the way to go even on a mild solid roller setup. You NEED enough spring pressure to keep the roller on the lobe though. If it bounces it WILL destroy the lifter.




Thats one of the reasons my 493 going in my 63 will have a solid flat tappet cam. I drive my 63 alot on the street and I dont want to worry about any roller lifter problems. Ron




The roller lifters I am using have a oil supply hole
for the roller... no worry here about lack of oil

Re: SOLID ROLLER FOR THE STREET [Re: BigBlockMopar] #907457
01/19/11 10:14 AM
01/19/11 10:14 AM
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,082
St. Paul , Mn.
tubtar Offline
master
tubtar  Offline
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Posts: 3,082
St. Paul , Mn.
Quote:


How do all those millions of modern car-engines survive with their roller cam setups?
Do those engines all have roller-oiling mods or is it all just a bit of scare-tactics and hearsay? Just curious.




Apples to bacon cheeseburgers comparison.
A combination of hydraulic roller lifters and mods to the oiling ( oiling the roller for one ) , coupled with WAY tamer grinds let them work like an OEM likes them to.
Roller lifters have been around for a long time , but cost and lack of technology to make them last is what kept car manufacturers out of the game for as long as it did.

Re: SOLID ROLLER FOR THE STREET [Re: tubtar] #907458
01/19/11 01:45 PM
01/19/11 01:45 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,228
Bend,OR USA
C
Cab_Burge Offline
I Win
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Posts: 43,228
Bend,OR USA
Solid roller lifters have been around in production cars since the early 1930 in V12 Cadilacs Aircraft motors have used them forever, the bad thing about race rollers is the spring pressures and RPM. The lifter weren't designed for the load Buy a good set of endurance roller lifters and make sure the spring pressures are enough to keep the rollors in contact with the cam lobes ALL of THE TIME, no matter what RPMs


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: SOLID ROLLER FOR THE STREET [Re: Cab_Burge] #907459
01/19/11 02:17 PM
01/19/11 02:17 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,374
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda Offline
I Live Here
an8sec70cuda  Offline
I Live Here

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,374
Marion, South Carolina [><]
Both my hemi and wedge have solid rollers and have seen a lot of street miles.
Do NOT use cheap lifters and you'll be fine. I use Isky Red Zones.

Obviously if it's a real aggressive lobe profile that needs a lot of spring pressure, things will have to be looked at more closely.


CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
Re: SOLID ROLLER FOR THE STREET [Re: an8sec70cuda] #907460
01/19/11 02:35 PM
01/19/11 02:35 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 24,562
Brookeville, Md
Mr.Yuck Offline
Not enough dumb comments...yet
Mr.Yuck  Offline
Not enough dumb comments...yet

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 24,562
Brookeville, Md
Quote:

Both my hemi and wedge have solid rollers and have seen a lot of street miles.
Do NOT use cheap lifters and you'll be fine. I use Isky Red Zones.

Obviously if it's a real aggressive lobe profile that needs a lot of spring pressure, things will have to be looked at more closely.




define "aggressive" I'm using a Comp cams 254 int./260 exh (.292/297) 0.582 int./0.588 exh. on a 110* They recommended springs with a seat load of 148 @ 1.900 open load of 456 @ 1.250 coil bind 1.085 and 474lbs.


[IMG]http://i66.tinypic.com/pui5j.jpg[/IMG]
Coming soon!!!!
Re: SOLID ROLLER FOR THE STREET [Re: Mr.Yuck] #907461
01/19/11 02:48 PM
01/19/11 02:48 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,374
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda Offline
I Live Here
an8sec70cuda  Offline
I Live Here

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,374
Marion, South Carolina [><]
Quote:

Quote:

Both my hemi and wedge have solid rollers and have seen a lot of street miles.
Do NOT use cheap lifters and you'll be fine. I use Isky Red Zones.

Obviously if it's a real aggressive lobe profile that needs a lot of spring pressure, things will have to be looked at more closely.




define "aggressive" I'm using a Comp cams 254 int./260 exh (.292/297) 0.582 int./0.588 exh. on a 110* They recommended springs with a seat load of 148 @ 1.900 open load of 456 @ 1.250 coil bind 1.085 and 474lbs.




That isn't aggressive. Mine isn't aggressive either...220# on the seat, 600# open.


CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
Re: SOLID ROLLER FOR THE STREET [Re: an8sec70cuda] #907462
01/19/11 03:05 PM
01/19/11 03:05 PM
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,082
St. Paul , Mn.
tubtar Offline
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Posts: 3,082
St. Paul , Mn.
My personal definition of aggressive starts around .700 lift and 270ish at .050 , but lobe profile has more to do with it than actual lift and duration numbers.
under .600 and 250 @.050 would be mild in the roller world......solid roller that is.

Last edited by tubtar; 01/19/11 03:06 PM.
Re: SOLID ROLLER FOR THE STREET [Re: tubtar] #907463
01/19/11 06:20 PM
01/19/11 06:20 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,876
Weddington, N.C.
Streetwize Offline
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Posts: 9,876
Weddington, N.C.
500 lbs (sq/in) in on the seats is not agressive for a Race motor that operates only minutes at the time...but on a street car each time every time for up to hours at the time does have a cumulative effect on the valves and aespecially the seats. also .700 lift adds a lot of feet per mile to the guide wear compared to .500 or even .600...up and down = 1 cycle.

Engineers deal in duty cycles...everything mechanical with moving parts has a finite (and predictable) life cycle. Opinions of what is "long Lasting" and "it works for me" vary greatly.

Bottom line is if you run your car mainly on week-ends and you pretty much only take it out for occassional cruises or a Test-n-tune, you're probably all right with a street roller.

My approach to a street motor is a bit different....to try to get the most out the motor in order to hit a target horsepower level with as small a cam and as low an RPM as is practical to do. That usually means big cubes and Excellent heads.

If you can get heads that flow at say .600 what others do at .700 that allows you to make the same power with a much milder cam....that seems to me to be a better overall approach, because anything below the torque peak means you get a much more streetable combination and odds are makes more average useable torque throughout a realistic street powerband.


WIZE

World's Quickest Diahatsu Rocky (??) 414" Stroker Small block Mopar Powered. 10.84 @ 123...and gettin' quicker!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-mWzLma3YGI

In Car:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PjXcf95e6v0
Re: SOLID ROLLER FOR THE STREET [Re: Streetwize] #907464
01/19/11 06:38 PM
01/19/11 06:38 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 24,562
Brookeville, Md
Mr.Yuck Offline
Not enough dumb comments...yet
Mr.Yuck  Offline
Not enough dumb comments...yet

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 24,562
Brookeville, Md
"Bottom line is if you run your car mainly on week-ends and you pretty much only take it out for occassional cruises or a Test-n-tune, you're probably all right with a street roller."

That'd be me except when I go to the track I run 2 classes as I only get out once a month or so...
kids...wife ya know.


[IMG]http://i66.tinypic.com/pui5j.jpg[/IMG]
Coming soon!!!!
Re: SOLID ROLLER FOR THE STREET [Re: Mr.Yuck] #907465
01/19/11 07:15 PM
01/19/11 07:15 PM
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,805
ky hills
thehemikid Offline
top fuel
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Posts: 1,805
ky hills
...I can't complain. My last wk end street warrior (500" Indy-1) lasted ~6 yrs with a Comp solid roller before one had a bearing failure.
...I'm currently building a 475" Hemi for the street with Stage V's & these Comp rollers. Hope to have at least or more of that life span.

Re: SOLID ROLLER FOR THE STREET [Re: Cab_Burge] #907466
01/19/11 08:54 PM
01/19/11 08:54 PM
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,209
New York
polyspheric Offline
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Posts: 4,209
New York
keep the rollors in contact with the cam lobes ALL of THE TIME

3 ways to do that:
1. hydraulic
2. set your lash to .001" hot, every day
3. rev kit


Boffin Emeritus
Re: SOLID ROLLER FOR THE STREET [Re: polyspheric] #907467
01/19/11 09:05 PM
01/19/11 09:05 PM
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,845
Tampa
D
DusterDave Offline
top fuel
DusterDave  Offline
top fuel
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,845
Tampa
Quote:

keep the rollors in contact with the cam lobes ALL of THE TIME

3 ways to do that:
1. hydraulic
2. set your lash to .001" hot, every day
3. rev kit



I'll add 2 more:

4. Run no less than the recommended amount of valve spring pressure
5. Stay away from aggressive lobe profiles


Gone to the dark side with an LS3 powered '57 Chevy 210
Re: SOLID ROLLER FOR THE STREET [Re: Thumperdart] #907468
01/19/11 09:29 PM
01/19/11 09:29 PM
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 871
WA 98043
thecarfarmer Offline
super stock
thecarfarmer  Offline
super stock

Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 871
WA 98043
Quote:

Quote:

The cam companies I have talked with don't recommend a solid roller for the street due to durability issues. Just sayin.


Maybe some lobe designs but my solid roller Isky`s been kickin for 6-years street/strip and changed springs and re-built the lifters after several thousand miles and is still going strong. It`s .680-.660 lift w/275-280@ .050..............just saying.




Well, there's the rub: some guys would be p1ssed if they have to pull the lifters and springs in several thousand miles. At your car's performance level, I think it's entirely reasonable.

But the OP was talking 'bout a stick in the 230's or 240's duration... I'd be cheesed off if I was replacing valvesprings and rebuilding lifters more often than the neighbor kid runs valves on his Civic for that kind of performance level.

Right now my pickup has just under .400" lobe lift; calculates to .670" (1.7 rockers) w/o lash or deflection. When I re-cam (aka "after I get a better paying job and finish this horrid divorce"), I'm thinking I should contact Harold Brookshire and have him set up a cam with gentler action and a little less lift. I can port the heads to try to offset any small power loss.

And it's a tamer combo than Thumper's Dart, but I still don't think it'll have the long-term longevity I want.

-Bill


Seduce the attractive, and charm the rest. ****** 489 C.I.D., roller cam, aftermarket heads, tunnel ram, stock '54 Dodge rear axle assembly: which of these doesn't belong?
Re: SOLID ROLLER FOR THE STREET [Re: tubtar] #907469
01/19/11 09:32 PM
01/19/11 09:32 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,316
Prospect, PA
BSB67 Offline
master
BSB67  Offline
master

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Posts: 4,316
Prospect, PA
Aggressive is the lobe profile. You can get a pretty agressive lobe with .600" valve lift and less than 250 degrees at 0.050" cam. It might be small, but does not mean it is not agressive. A profile that takes the lifter from seat to 0.050" and back in 32 degrees or less is agressive IMO. These gerenally also go from seat to 0.200" and back in less than 110 degrees. Comp, Bullet, Lunati all have several profiles that move the valve this fast but are under 250 degrees @ 0.050". Manufacturers and distributers, in my experiance, will recommend 250/600 springs for these profiles even if you're only turning it 6500 rpm.

Re: SOLID ROLLER FOR THE STREET [Re: BSB67] #907470
01/19/11 09:48 PM
01/19/11 09:48 PM
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,295
U.S.
M
moparniac Offline
master
moparniac  Offline
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M

Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,295
U.S.
so by these 2 which would you say is better for the street just by timing events


bullet +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++comp


Mopar Performance
Re: SOLID ROLLER FOR THE STREET [Re: polyspheric] #907471
01/19/11 09:50 PM
01/19/11 09:50 PM
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 5,080
organ
M
maximum entropy Offline
master
maximum entropy  Offline
master
M

Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 5,080
organ
Quote:

keep the rollors in contact with the cam lobes ALL of THE TIME

3 ways to do that:
1. hydraulic
2. set your lash to .001" hot, every day
3. rev kit



winner!


for what is the good life if not doing things thoughtfully?
Re: SOLID ROLLER FOR THE STREET [Re: BSB67] #907472
01/19/11 09:52 PM
01/19/11 09:52 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 75
southwest pa
B
bodyworks racing Offline
member
bodyworks racing  Offline
member
B

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 75
southwest pa
i agree with awbdart contact bullit cams just got a 440 back from dyno 467 hp 501 torque with a mild hydraulic and just 10 to 1


68 ROADRUNNER 440 HORSE POWER IS HOW FAST YOU HIT THE WALL TORQUE IS HOW FAR YOU TAKE THE WALL WITH YOU
Re: SOLID ROLLER FOR THE STREET [Re: moparniac] #907473
01/19/11 09:59 PM
01/19/11 09:59 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,316
Prospect, PA
BSB67 Offline
master
BSB67  Offline
master

Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,316
Prospect, PA
I'm not sure what your question is?

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