The company stopped making the rubber type. I located these. They actually work better and can expand to shorten to different lengths.www.thingsnotable.com
[img]http://www.thingsnotable.com[/img]

So it's $70 for 12 of these shipped, still wondering why it's needed?
I've had my car 20+ years and have NEVER replaced a fuse, or any other car for that matter.

Never had to replace fuse..
Consider yourself lucky.
The older style glass fuses are harder to find nowadays.
Also a glass fuse can actually be open after constant surges as its internal element can fatigue and eventually be open.
In our older cars a fuse can blow easily if a hot wire is grounded or even a shorted switch...
The later blade fuses are available everywhere, so the Flex Fuse is a kool idea.
Note they are cheaper on E-Bay @ $5 each...
See below link..

Just my $0.02...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/325389527067

Should also mention using adapters is adding two more connections in the circuit. Electronics 101a teaches one to avoid added connections whenever possible

try this

https://www.ebay.com/itm/325389527067?

I updated the posted link..
Thank U...

Just my $0.02...

So EBay is even worse than the website,
$20 for 3…..…....................

Harbor Freight still sells the "old" fuses, bought a mega pack for <$10 bucks several years ago,
And I will admit I did have to use 1, it broke when I was removing to change, when I bought a new harness.

60 for $8

https://www.harborfreight.com/60-piece-agc-glass-automotive-fuse-set-67692.html

I slather No-OX on everything
https://www.amazon.com/NO-OX-ID-Special-Electrical-Contact-Corrosion/dp/B00HDF9EXE

just a heads up on "DEAL" glass fuses. Several years back there was a bunch of UHH overseas fuses that were not FUSING at there rated amperage but rather much HIGHER and created some unexpected meltdowns. I have bought name brand glass fuses from several sources including Napa and other stores. they may not be in stock but can be ordered. Ebay and AMZ are other sources as well as previously mentioned electronic supply places.

Since we are on.the subject Year's ago I went around the You Pull It and filled both pockets with Glass Fuses. Next trip Did the same with newer style plasic ones regular and mini.
Guy hardly charged me much. Came from.low mile wrecked old car and as new as possible new car for plastic.
I figured known good fuses were better then new China stuff.
I know few years back Harbor Freight sold some thst were not blowing.
The consensus was don't buy them.
Do not know if that is still the same but see plenty bulk type packs of all kinds glass, plastic in bulk on eBay, Amazon etc.
I do know I spent a ton on M&H main Harness, Engine Bay, Trans, Forward Light and Rear Light Group
Would suck to not pop a fuse and burn the car down.
Do all fuses come from the same places now China?
Thoughts as I have used up most of my stash on friends cars and working at friends body shop.

Covered above

Don't know

I would suggest buying name rand fuses like Bussman, Llittlefuse etc. They can usually be ordered by your local parts store, bendover NAPA OR Try the electronic supply houses like Allied, Arrow, Mouser, Newark, Digi Key etc. as suggested by myself and another
PSST! you'll find the supply houses MUCH CHEAPER. One can also shop the bay & AMZ but MAKE SURE you're not getting a knocked up (off) version

with the Flex Fuse adapter the

https://www.amazon.com/Electronic-S...ive+fuse+amp+meter%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-8

Fuse Buddy tool would be more useable on older equipment

That's cool. I should test my circuits with the DMM clipped in. Not only for over-draw (likely bad grounds) but under-draw which could then use lighter fuses.

I usually just buy new old stock USA made fuses on ebay. Easier than popping them out in junkyards.