I'm not a big time racer but I've never had to use more than a 37 squirtor, and most are fine with 30ccs and 31. It's only supposed to pump during trasition in throttle opening. Not after... After is where the PV and booster come in. If I had to guess, your PCV is fine the way it was. The difference was the lean you had from basically a big vacuum leak. You have an annular booster carb. It's very sensitive to pressure cahnges. I'd go leaner on the shot (like a 28 with the 30cc) and see if that helps. Remember the amount of fuel will never change. It's always going to be 30 or 50ccs. But the time it takes to discharge will. Big squirtors mean a lot of fuel for a shorter time. Smaller shooters mean more time spent enriching the mixture. I think you're way over-rich when the rpms clear 2500 due to the annular boosters and larger pump cam with the larger shooter. It cleans out when the rpms drop with the shift and the acc pump is out of volume.

thanks for the replys guys. This has been a frustrating situation for sure. Moper - I did try the 30cc, pink cam and 28 squirter and had the same problem. I tried 28 to 47 squirters with the 30cc, and only tried 33's with the 50cc. Whats also very frustrating is that the problem never duplicates itself identically. Some pulls are cleaner than others, with the same hardware.

If the annular carb is more sensitive to pressure, would it help any to route the pcv to a port lower on the intake manifold vs directly to the carb?

What is the venturi dimension for a QFT "950" annular? Even running my Claw w/ 1.56" venturi and annular boosters, it seemed like that style of booster simply pulls too much fuel too early in the RPM range to run cleanly on the street.

If I ever try it w/ annular boosters again, I'm going to stick in the 1.59" venturi sleeves and see if that helps. Otherwise, I'm going to stay w/ "tried and true" downleg booster combinations.

not sure about the venturi size. I'll check into it though.

If your 50cc stuff does not correct the problem I still recommend having the calibration of the meter circuit checked. You may have an air velocity problem with the heads that the annular booster cannot over come until the rpm picks up significantly increasing the port velocity. I would be more inclined to be using a down leg booster style carb anyway with more standard size pumps and squirters.

My engine guy thinks I should try jetting down a few sizes. His theory is that if the engine ran its best with a big vacuum leak, it must have been extremely rich (since normally a big vacuum leak would create a lean condition, especially on hard acceleration). He also thinks my problem is occuring past the point of the pump/squirter consideration. And, he also thinks the pcv is not part of the problem.

Soo, with that I'm going to pull the carb, put the 30cc and pink cam back on, 33 squirters (stock settings), and pull out 3 jet sizes. If that doesnt help any, I'm going to give another carb a try.

Can I route the pcv to a vacuum port on the manifold or is it best to go right to the back of the carb? Or does it not matter either way?

Sometimes a big vacuum leak will cause the power valve to stand open all the time. And this would make it very rich. I think a power valve leak rich condition can be the same as 10 jet sizes big. But it also depends on how much of a vacuum leak there is. I would stick a gauge on it and see what it is doing at idle. I don't think it will matter one way or the other on where you attach the pcv hose. The orifice is usually with the pcv valve. I still believe the metering calibration is off on that carb. If you try another carb try one with down leg boosters. Good luck with this, I know how frustrating it can be.

he added fuel pressure and it picked up. im still leaning towards it running out of fuel right before the shift point.

Did he add the fuel pressure before or after the regulator?

if he increased regulator pressure,it reduces flow.Why does Barry Grant say that you need a pump that can pump,lets say one gallon in 20 seconds,its not because the engine is going to use that much fuel.Its because a pump that can flow fuel at that rate has a higher output pressure before bypass.I'am guessing that Tony's pump is going away.

I am running a clay smith mechanical pump and I really doubt the pump is going away. Cant say with 100% certainty especially since I still havn't figured this out yet, but the pressure is always rock steady wherever I lock it in at. I'm going to try jetting down first and see if there is any change. I will try different pressure settings too if need be. I will say this though, at my last test session when it ran its hardest with the pcv detached, I had the pressure up at 8.5. I kept the same pressure with the follow up pass (with the pcv attached) and it returned to the same breaking up symptoms.

Thats why I dont think its the pump or regulator...but im definitely not ruling it out entirely.

So tonight my test run will keep the 50cc pump, 33 squirter, jetting 3-4sizes down (forget what jets are in there now..I think 79 and 87). Going to keep the pressure at 8.5, and run the pcv hose to a port behind the intake.

If it shows signs of improvement or cleans it up all together, I may try going back to the 30cc and pink cam and also try dropping the fuel pressure to a more street friendly rate - 7-7.5.

Thanks everyone for your input. Its been very helpful.

Tony,can you monitor fuel pressure on a run? Is your fuel pick-up at the rear of the tank?

I made a few "runs" around the 'hood tonight. First I tried jetting down 4 sizes front and back with fuel pressure at 8.5, and sputtered like heck. Came back jetted back to 79 and 87 bumped the pressure up to 9 and ran much better, but still with some sputtering. When I set the pressure above 8.5 it appears to be too much for the regulator cause the needle starts bouncing. As soon as I back it off to 8.5 or below it stays steady.

I even popped the pcv hose off just to see if I could duplicate my awesome pull from the other night, but no such luck this time. I must have just been lucky last time.

I'm going to pick up a fuel pressure gauge that I can see from inside the car and really see whats happening. At this point, I think thats the only way to really narrow down the problem.

BTW, The car still idles like a champ and street cruising is nice and crisp, so for now I see no reason to put the 30cc pump and pink cam back in. I'll let you know what happens after I verify the fuel pressure on a "pull".

You ever get this fiquired out?

I just plumbed a fuel pressure gauge in the other night (one that I can see while Im driving). Got too late to take it out for a "run" and havnt had a chance since. Gonna take it for a spin tomorrow...will let you know what i find. Thanks!