Doesn't anyone braze panels on anymore? I learned how to some 20 years ago but i couldn't tell you how to now . Uses lower heat and finishes real well. If you think using a Tig on flat panels is hard, try using Oxy-Acet.


Dave

This is the tig hacker talking. For body work, try some silicon bronze rod. I used ER70S6 for the inner aprons on the Dart, and, they ended pretty nice, (after a bazzillon %%$$@@&&), but silicone bronze is the cat's bottom. Try here. www.tigdepot.com

My only real experience welding in my life has been Mig welding exhaust. It doesn't get any easier! I decided that I wanted to do some panel replacement so I bought a 110V unit for myself. First car went pretty good with a flange joint. I read about butt-welding. Hey, let's try that now...so I did. My FIRST butt-weld may not have been a professional quality butt weld, but there was virtually NO warpage and I have WAY less clean-up to do (grinding wise) than when I was flanging my joints.

I don't know if it wound up in the archives here, but one of the members did an AWESOME job of explaining how to do it, and by simply following their instructions, I did a job many (myself included) would be proud of.

My .02...

hey all-
i have my own 110V Lincoln MIG machine, but i have not done any body work...although I have done an oil pan for my uncles racecar motor(yea i know im 15 but im "advanced" ok? HAHA)...the oil pan came out GREAT! i couldnt of been happier and i dont think my uncle could of either...
BUT...i did learn alot on this thread! so in most peoples opinion, MIG is better for sheetmetal huh? thats good to know! my dad wants SOOOO much body work on a pro street trailduster he is building...
when you talk grinding sheet metal...what do you use? of course I have the 4 1/2 inch angle grinder, but i only have the hard grinding disks..for like taking ALOT of metal off. there is NO WAY I HELL i would use this on a body! i have seen other guys using different wheels but i dont knwo what they are or where i can buy them! i have heard of them being called "flapper disks", is this what you use for grinding A LITTLE BIT of metal off and not the whoel quarter panel or whatever your grinding!? LOL
one more thing, can anyone find the post and possibly put a link to it on this thread f the post that 4speeds4me was talkin about when someone went thru the entire process of doing body work welding?
THANKS!
Kyle

Well Ive been using my Hobart MIG for years now and have done just about anything with it. From sheet to plate to Alum.
I finaly got a deal on a TIG that I couldnt pass up and let me tell you its a WHOLE NEW WORLD out there. This is way more comlicated than the Mig ever was. Its not the welding. I have also gas welded for years but there are so many different ways to TIG from air cooled tips to water cooled tips to different types of gasses to different types of tungston electrodes to metal prep. ect ect ect.
Ive talked to guys who build cromemoly race bike frames that are in the Tour De France that purge there frames with nitrogen before welding to a guy who builds stainless exaust systems. And will only use water cooled tips.
To Team Tourch who practices welding on a neadle.
There are just so many varibles that to do it right you will need to be taught by someone like Ron Covel who knows just what you need for a certan process. Or at least get one of his books.
It was interesting when they asked Jesse James the bike guy what he would like to be rembered as. And he said "As a really good welder" I think he realised just how hard it is too be good at many different types of welding.
Im having fun but WHOO what a learning curve.

Sorry. I didn't check the archives, but I checked the stuff I save from Moparts (and I swore I had saved this one) but I can't find it...

Thanks for all the responses again (love this board). I think I'm already using the ER70S6 rod. What I may do next is see about getting a thinner electrode and rod for really low amps. Funny thing is I've got Covell's video where he does patch panels on an old Morgan. I thought I followed his directions....

See pic of enclosed welding project for view of my welds (bat-proof mailbox made from 3/16" plate, DOM roll cage tubing, and scrolls). Thick stuff sure is easier...

My first welding job I started in a stainless shop and all we used were miller tigs and this was on 16 to 20 gauge stainless.We built restaurant packages for Red Lobster,Olive Garden,Zio's,Sonic and others.We built large tables and salad bars and it couldn't be warped all to hell when you were done so fitting,the use of cooling bars,wet rags and the ability to control your heat was very important.When fitting sheetmetal both parts need to be flush because if you have any gaps it's going to pull when welded and you need tacks every 1/4".We flashtacked everything and to do this you set the machine on 150 amps and at a 100% then with no hood on just turn your head and quickly stab the pedal and let off and after getting used to it you can vary the size of the tacks plus move along quickly.I'm wanting to try this on my car's sheetmetal and just flashtack the whole seam moving around and using a wet rag until it's all sealed and there shouldn't be hardly any heat in the panel and hardly any warpage.If you're going to try to weld a 1/2" at a time use a wet rag and move around plus weld into another weld instead of starting at the end of a weld then stopping this keeps it from pulling as much.Also thin sheetmetal is easily penetrated so run small and narrow beads and travel quickly with your torch and as soon as you lift up slap a wet rag on it.We mainly used 1/16 tungsten and water cooled torches.
I didn't learn any of this in welding school.I learned it from guys in this stainless shop who had been doing it for 30 to 40 years.I found out quickly what they called "shop experience".

Brian

LOL, Love that :Bat proof mail box" That has to shake your arm when you hit it.