I think I should switch to the Dana 60 from the 9" that I have (not modified yet), for my build. It looks like my rear frame width will be about 22 inches or maybe even 20. This will put the brackets up on the tapered area instead of the axle tubes, and I don't really like that idea. Besides letting my Chevy buddies talk me into the 9"! lol What are your opinions on this? Are there particular Dana's I need to look for?

About the build:

65 Dart
back half four link (probably) ladder?
14 point cage
500 stroker
RPM's or Victors depending on $$ at the time
727 trans
plan to move firewall back about 3"
possibly move rear axle forward 3" or so
I'm guessing around 2900 lbs or so.
Have 15 x 14 7.5 bk sp. Draglites 32 x 14+ slicks
4.30 gear?

Thanks guys.

Dana 60 come with at least three different tube thicknesses, cars where three inch diameter along with some 3/4 ton van and pick up rear ends, some of the 3/4 ton trucks came with 3.125 diameter tubes and some came with 3.250 tube diameters. Any of them will work for what your wanting to do. Tell your Chevy buds that the Dana 60 has a lot less parasitic drag stock than any of the Ford nine production rear ends did, including the famous "Daytona support" rear ends As far as building yours use the 35 or 40 spline axles and spool with the apropriate axle ends for the brakes you want to run

That is pretty narrow... I wouldnt worry about being
on the taper other than its more work just got to make
them square and parallel... myself, if I had the 9"
thats what I would use instead of buying more stuff...
Also I would go 4-link now and not even think ladder
bars... look at the lengths of the different anti roll
bars before you go any farther... try to keep the
shocks out as far as possible for better stability...JMO

No way, no how, would I have my suspension brackets welded to cast...but thats just me. Use the 9" you have, or if it must be a Mopar rear, use an 8.75.

Look at it this way...axles are axles, brakes are brakes, spools, gears, etc..they cost the same for either rear. You have the 9". Yes, you will need to buy a decent center and an alum pinion support for the Ford. Both of these will cost you about $500 if you shop around, but you won't have your main suspension components welded to cast.

Monte

my frame rails are 23" I use a 9" with a 40" wide flange base, currently rolling on 32x16w tyres in a duster, pm me you email if you want photos of my 9" four link brackets

Put a Dana 60 in it and never look back. Mr. P is correct again 4-link coil overs and anti roll. You have it apart and now is the time to install the bullit proof Mopar equipment.

I will post a few pics of the dana 4-link system that I installed just this year.

Another...

yet another pic...

The issue here, is not whethert he DANA will work, because we all know it will. The issue is the frame rail width in an early A body. If the rails are narrow enough, that the brackets will need to be placed on the web and not the tubes, that would immediately rule out the DANA for me. The DANA vs 9" argument is a useless waste of time and I can't believe I got involved in it, but in this instance, the 9" is the obvious better choice

Monte

This is in the K. 14x32 tires. The upper wheelie bar tabs are welded to the housing. Everything else is on the tubes. That was the first thing we measured before we ordered the dana. Is a 65 Dart narrower?

He says in the first post, that the brackets will be on the web.

Monte

you can get around that width issue.
with a removable lower shock mount that spans below the housing.
Dont have pics but have done one.

Early A bodies have just about the same width rear frame rails as later model A's.

Also, I believe Dana center sections are about 17.5". Thats going off memory though.

The issue is that the brackets would be on the tapered part of the 9" rear. I believe they would be on the tubes of a Dana. I don't know for a fact because I don't have one to measure. The tapered part of the 9" rear is 24" wide. Plus centering the pinion shifts it a little more to one side. I have just a little more trimming around the wheel well before I can get a more accurate measurement. The slicks I'm using for mock up are 1.5 inches (section width) wider than what I will be using. Axle hub to axle hub approx 45".

What is the center width of a Dana 60? Would the brackets be on the tubes of the Dana at 22" frame width?

Thanks again.

A friend of mine just offered me a FREE Dana 60, no guts or ends from a 71 Dodge 3/4 ton truck. Is this the way I should go? Moser is who I will probably be using to narrow, and get axles, etc from as I can drive there in about two hours.



It looks like most anti roll bars adjust from 16" to 24". At least the ones from A.R.T. do

Hey Super Scamp. Nice! What is your frame width outside to outside? Yours looks like it's as close as you can get it and still be on the tubes. Thanks to the fast measurement from Flite727, I would think I will still be on the tubes at 22" maybe even 20". 1 3/8" offset?

I really appreciate all the help guys.

The C/M Frame rails are 21" outside to outside.

4-link brackets are 21" outside to outside.

With the Dana 38" flange to flange, It's the most you can get under the car with 33x 16.5x 15 tires rims are 4" b/s. So you have 20" centers and everything lines up. Wheelie bars have room as well.. All parts fore the 4-link are from RJ Race Cars inc. (Quarter-Max) It's very tight with the anti-roll made custom brackets for it to fit centered on the 4-link.

Moser spool,axles/bearings and housing ends. I ordered the axles and moser was very helpful with the measurement.