I was just wondering if there is any benefits to running a kick down cable when running a manual valve body?I just got the tranny back from my trans guy and it has a kick down cable installed on it and I didnt have one before.I havent talked to my builder about this yet and was wondering what you all's opinions are.Thanks

Maybe so it shifts softer at low speed?
I wouldn't want it.

Most if not all aftermarket manual VB's eliminate the kick down.

Yes, you could put the lever and linkage on but it wont do anything.

I really dont want to have to mess with it if i dont need to.I will call my builder in the am and see whats up.

What kind of VB is it?

Brand, part #

Bill I think the put a kit in the valve body to make it a manual vb,does this sound right?

If that's the case than it may still need the kick down installed.

Did he save you the instructions for the kit? Might want to ask for those.

Well I talked to my trans guy this morning and he said it was a trango tf3 kit that was put in the VB,he said running the kick down cable would make the tranny last longer.What is your alls opinion?he said I didnt have to use it.Anybody else run the tf3 kit and if so did you run a kick down?

The TF-3 gives you the option of using linkage or not, using the linkage will make the part throttle shifts less violent.

If you don't want to use the linkage just tie the lever full back.

I can`t beleive guys still use that kit.........I never had good results(and others I know) from that kit and if it was me, I`d highly consider washing my hands of that antique stuff and step up to an after market VB.

Well heres the deal,we took the trans in to have it rebuilt,told them we wanted a manual vb,bolt in sprag,solid bands etc,well it lasted 15 miles and they would not stand behind it when reverse went out.So I take it to another guy to have him fix it and when he pulled it apart it didnnt have anything it was supposed to.He said the valve body had a kit in it to make it manual,so now we have a $2000 trans , with a tf3 kit.the original shop who first did the tranny gave us a recipt that had a $300 vb and all the good stuff on it but they screwed us,time to talk to a lawyer I guess.This is a 70 Roadrunner with a new 505.I guess we should of just left the OL 4speed in,this has become a money pit.lol

John if i wire the lever back it will be alright for street strip use?

If you do that it will shift hard on the street..

Unless you have a cheap lawyer it is most likely better to cut your losses and wright the trans off to experience.
My manual valve body and I thought all manual valve bodies shift with full line pressure. I would rather have the trans shift hard at low speed then shift slow and weak under hard accelleration.This will slip things and burn things up.
I have 6-8 thousand in a transmission with one of the most highly regarded builders and it is a piece of crap. If I could get half my money back I would gladly sell it and look for something else. Many times in this hobby you get the shaft. Many Hi performance parts manufacturers and builders don't stand behind their products and services.

I assume manual v-bodies do run full line prssure but, there`s a BIG difference between a trans-go crap shift kit and a REAL race v-body. The shift is ridiculously hard at slow speeds w/the trans-go unlike my Cheetah bad dog.

This just suck's we've been building this car since last spring with the new 505 and auto tranny set up.My dad originally bought this car 15 years ago and always had a 440 & 4speed and we could never keep a clutch in it,so when we decided to build a stroker and I talked him into going auto with a nice stall,well we've only had this thing out a couple of times and out of nowhere reverse decided to go out.The 505 seems to run real well and my dad is pretty intimadated when he drives it.lol Im going to put the trans back in this weekend and didnt know what to do with the cable.I also have a new Prosystems carb sitting on the bench waiting to be put on.Thanks for all of your input,we've thrown alot of cash at this thing for the past year and cant seem to make it out of the garage.lol Thanks guy's

Sounds like a small claims court action.

I told him to use my guy,but he found this shop that said they would have it done in 2 day's.I've herd stories about this shop and I Think he was trying to make payroll.Oh well my ol man spends the money I do all the wrenching.lol Rant's & Raves on craigslist works well lol

It amazes me how many $ racers spend on transmissions. The 727 is a very simple piece of machinery. It takes very little in after market parts to hold up to a 10.0 3500lb vehicle. Heres the list of what works,there are upgrades and other combos but these work from my experience. Use Turbo Action manual valve body. This part alone makes life simple. I've been running them street and track for over 25 years. The low speed shift is tolerable, especially with a looser converter. Next good quality clutches and bands. Raybestoes tans work fine and are cheap. You can upgrade to Alto reds,blues,Kevlar band if you like. Use a 4 plate front drum. Use a 3.8,4.2,5.0 lever. Put 15 springs in the front drum. Use both inner and outer springs in the K.D. servo. As for the front drum if your worried about safety get a after maket drum. Get a good book such as Carl Monroes and put it together. If you have a problem ask a question. Someone will help. If you can assemble a engine you can do a trans. Very little is needed in the way of tools. In fact my 1st builds involved no special tools at all. It just took a little longer. Find your local trans wholesale house. The parts minus the drum and valve body seldom exceed $100. This combo will live for years.
Doug