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That guy at Carlisle with the girls in black short shorts that was across the isle from me who was pushing some rust remover elixir isn't gonna like this free recipe

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LoL well sofar I have only tested this stuff with mopar rust.. His stuff might work on fords and chevys too lol ... You didn't by any chance take a pic of the rust remover babes did yah? ..

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cool!! how do you neutralize the acids after your done?

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Can't you just put it on your salad?

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Would a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water neutralize the acids? That's what it takes to neutralize metal after a soda blast.

Or acetone/Eastwood Pre?

I don't think baking soda and water would work if the surface was going to be primed or painted. Baking soda residue won't let the primer stick to the surface. At least that's the case with soda blasting - all the soda must be neutralized.

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That guy at Carlisle with the girls in black short shorts that was across the isle from me who was pushing some rust remover elixir isn't gonna like this free recipe

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Those girls were hot!!!!!!! Having them next to me all weekend made the 1500 mile trip worth it.

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tried it. its ok but my $20,000 soda blaster does a better job.

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Making some "free" stuff to use in a pinch is not the same as making it for routine regular use. Calculate the cost to make a full gallon and then let's see where you are. There are plenty of good "natural" rust solutions on the market. The one I use is $20/gallon for a concentrate that will yeild 4 gallons when mixed. At that price is it really worth all the farting around? That's time you could have been working on your car or spending with your kids.

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so whats the brand/name of the stuff you use and where did you get it? any before/after pics of it "in action"?

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just an overnight soak

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I should add...rinsed throughly with water then a light spray of WD40 (for water dispersal) and excess wiped off after a short soak. Doesnt appear to be flashing over at all.

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Another thing to consider is that ANY acid based rust remover ALSO removes the metal itself, at the very least you'll end up with an acid etched surface. Consider this if you are trying to preserve any of the original part surface appaearance. If the surface is a concern stick with a product like Evap-O-Rust that destroys rust and leaves all other materials (metal, paint, etc, metal finishes, etc.) 100% intact.

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I have actually have tried the solution on painted items and it did leave the paint intact and glossy!

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Obviously for some heavily corroded or rust covered parts the surface won't matter and the acid approach is a valid choice, but my comments on more delicate surfaces are not simply "Another Opinion" it's verifiable fact.

Acids are corrosive to most metals and many other materials, not just rust. You may have had an example of one paint that was not affected, but you can't say that accross the board it won't harm paint.

Products like Evap-O-Rust do not harm ANYTHING but the rust itself.

.....And no, I don't work for Evap-O-Rust

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I have actually have tried the solution on painted items and it did leave the paint intact and glossy!

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Obviously for some heavily corroded or rust covered parts the surface won't matter and the acid approach is a valid choice, but my comments on more delicate surfaces are not simply "Another Opinion" it's verifiable fact.


Acids are corrosive to most metals and many other materials, not just rust. You may have had an example of one paint that was not affected, but you can't say that accross the board it won't harm paint.

Products like Evap-O-Rust do not harm ANYTHING but the rust itself.

.....And no, I don't work for Evap-O-Rust

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Actually your mistaking on this! the ph value of evaporust is 6 they claim 6-7.1 @ 1%
anything below a 7 is infact a acid
I am sure if we measure vinegar @ 1% it will be alot higher than a 3-4 on the ph scale!

It is infact a weaker acid "maybe" but still an acid!! Some examples of weak acids are acetic acid (found in vinegar), carbonic acid, hydrofluoric acid, and formic acid. evapo-rust although they claim they are not a acid my guess is if you take their straight solution and measured the it would be infact a acid! and not a base! I like how they measure it at 1%
http://www.evapo-rust.com/technical/EvapoRustTDS.doc

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evapo-rust although they claim they are not a acid

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Each works in it's own way and his advantages/disadvantages. If I had to pick a favorite, I think it would be evaporust, but there are also a lot of parts where the cheap easy acid solution would be a viable alternative.

Tav

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BTW, for those who want to see just what the difference is between Evap-O-Rust and the Home brewed V/C/S mix concerning the acids effect on good metal (and not just the rust), put a small sample of each fluid in a jar. Add a few pennies to each, and toss in another item made of clean raw steel, results will vary with the proximity of the steel parts & the pennies, the effect will be more dramtic if they are touching. Let it sit overnight and have a close look at the pennies and steel parts, post your results here.

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http://www.massmopar.com/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1135525788

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can you post pic of the lemon juice bottle?

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Seriously? Youv'e never seen these in the store? Some are shaped like a lemon, some aren't, all the same stuff.

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can you post pic of the lemon juice bottle?

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Seriously? Youv'e never seen these in the store? Some are shaped like a lemon, some aren't, all the same stuff.

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lolol i can honestly say iv never seen them before

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bringing this back up ...

Anyone that dipped any bolts for an extended period notice the the threads getting eaten away ? I haven't used this particular mix, just white vinegar itself, on a set of lower control arms and left them in for over a week, the threads on the exposed part of the t bar adjustments were eaten to the point of the bolts being junk.

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How bad were they to begin with? If the corrosion is really deep all you're removing is the oxidized metal and the damage was done well before it was put in the bath.

With different materials and levels of corrosion, it's best to check at least a once a day on the progress.

I know the galvanized headlight buckets tend to lose their "sheen" within a few hours and don't require near the time to de-rust and clean while I had shock plates in the solution for 2+ weeks.

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and a silver chain for the heck of it.

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I thought there were only gold chains in Jersey

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Baking soda will neutralize acid, but you need to use enough of it to do a complete job. Mix it into a super saturated soloution (keep pouring powder and mixing in to water until the powder no longer disolves and piles up on the bottom)

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Not to be a D!cK, but super saturation refers to elevated saturation levels due to conditions other than normal, for example: increased pressure or temperature. What you are referring to is merely a saturated condition.

Ok, yeah I'm a nerd. Carry on...

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My 9th grade science teacher, Mr. David Bowman, tought me wrong then.....I digress.....

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Looks good but your going to want to remove the paint off the valance before you dunk it...it wont remove paint.

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If you leave it in there long enough it will ...

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Evaporust , I found some last night but it was just a small bottle , is this a concentrate , it didn't say anything on the bottle so this is probably a stupid question. If it's not I'd have to spend $100 to get enough to put anything like a valve cover in it

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ready to fill up...

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I would have just gone to Toys R Us and be done with it.

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Framing square and clamps turned out pretty good. Rear valance needed to be flipped over, it'll come out tomorrow.

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