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In regards to the 8.75", what gives up and makes them go boom? I've always had the understanding that the case flexes and the gears spread apart and this is what's making them let go. So if that's indeed true, does the new aluminum center section stiffen things up enough that if you used a braced housing, would it survive? I'm just curious and hoping maybe some of you guys can give some answers.

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I would suggest a back brace on any 8 3/4 thats
going to be raced... the axles/tires are trying to
walk ahead of the housing thus bending the axle tubes,
also the cast caps are a weak point so replacing at
least the load side cap would help alot... I went
with the alum center which at the time was fairly
cheap but is stronger and it has some beefy alum
caps with thru bolts on 3 of them. Also if you wanted
to add load bolts to the back of the housing to
rest on the caps they help alot.... but if the car
is going to be heavy go to a different rear. I have
changed gears 3 different times just to get the right
ratio for my set up... since then its been the same
and I race both 1/8 and 1/4(bracket racing) so the
slight difference in ET doesnt matter

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Every component in racing has a failure point as far as stress and HP. The 8 3/4 with a back brace welded on before doing any straightening is a good start, a steel cap on the left(drivers )side is needed and setting the gears up correctly(move the pinion back .008 to .012 from the optimum distance helps also, 35 spline spool and axles are needed also These fixes won't make a 8 3/4 bullet proof in a 3600 lb car with really good traction and 700+ HP If you want to swap the ring and pinion gear out around 100 hundred runs it will live that long as proven in many bracket and NHRA class cars. Those that use that maintenace routine normally sell the used ring and piniuons to help pay for the new ones If you want a bullet proof rear end then use the Dana 60

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is he stuck in the 1960s or what

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Every component in racing has a failure point as far as stress and HP. The 8 3/4 with a back brace welded on before doing any straightening is a good start, a steel cap on the left(drivers )side is needed and setting the gears up correctly(move the pinion back .008 to .012 from the optimum distance helps also, 35 spline spool and axles are needed also These fixes won't make a 8 3/4 bullet proof in a 3600 lb car with really good traction and 700+ HP If you want to swap the ring and pinion gear out around 100 hundred runs it will live that long as proven in many bracket and NHRA class cars. Those that use that maintenace routine normally sell the used ring and piniuons to help pay for the new ones If you want a bullet proof rear end then use the Dana 60

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is he stuck in the 1960s or what

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LMFAO

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Link to article.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0806_chevy_chevelle_rear_axle_swap/index.html

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I've got some Mark Williams caps , a Strange spool, Yukon Axles, and a billit yoke for my 8-3/4 but haven't put them all in yet . I was gonna build a nice backbraced housing first and a good center with my parts and bolt it all in. I was however considering a Moser 875 housing but that would be around 1200 alone up here I'm sure. Anyone used one of those housings yet??

Don.

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Installed

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Of course. 9" rears and small block Chevy engines go hand in hand.

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Thats what I'm talking about! Don't forget those chebby hood scoops too!

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Installed

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Man that's Purdy!!