Re: 8.75 or 9" Rear?
[Re: dodgeboy11]
#490516
10/10/09 09:16 AM
10/10/09 09:16 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
In regards to the 8.75", what gives up and makes them go boom? I've always had the understanding that the case flexes and the gears spread apart and this is what's making them let go. So if that's indeed true, does the new aluminum center section stiffen things up enough that if you used a braced housing, would it survive? I'm just curious and hoping maybe some of you guys can give some answers.
I would suggest a back brace on any 8 3/4 thats going to be raced... the axles/tires are trying to walk ahead of the housing thus bending the axle tubes, also the cast caps are a weak point so replacing at least the load side cap would help alot... I went with the alum center which at the time was fairly cheap but is stronger and it has some beefy alum caps with thru bolts on 3 of them. Also if you wanted to add load bolts to the back of the housing to rest on the caps they help alot.... but if the car is going to be heavy go to a different rear. I have changed gears 3 different times just to get the right ratio for my set up... since then its been the same and I race both 1/8 and 1/4(bracket racing) so the slight difference in ET doesnt matter
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Re: 8.75 or 9" Rear?
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#490517
10/10/09 09:17 AM
10/10/09 09:17 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
Quicktree
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
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Quote:
Every component in racing has a failure point as far as stress and HP. The 8 3/4 with a back brace welded on before doing any straightening is a good start, a steel cap on the left(drivers )side is needed and setting the gears up correctly(move the pinion back .008 to .012 from the optimum distance helps also, 35 spline spool and axles are needed also These fixes won't make a 8 3/4 bullet proof in a 3600 lb car with really good traction and 700+ HP If you want to swap the ring and pinion gear out around 100 hundred runs it will live that long as proven in many bracket and NHRA class cars. Those that use that maintenace routine normally sell the used ring and piniuons to help pay for the new ones If you want a bullet proof rear end then use the Dana 60
is he stuck in the 1960s or what
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Re: 8.75 or 9" Rear?
[Re: Quicktree]
#490518
10/10/09 09:39 AM
10/10/09 09:39 AM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,067 Orlando Florida
blown572dart
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,067
Orlando Florida
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Quote:
Quote:
Every component in racing has a failure point as far as stress and HP. The 8 3/4 with a back brace welded on before doing any straightening is a good start, a steel cap on the left(drivers )side is needed and setting the gears up correctly(move the pinion back .008 to .012 from the optimum distance helps also, 35 spline spool and axles are needed also These fixes won't make a 8 3/4 bullet proof in a 3600 lb car with really good traction and 700+ HP If you want to swap the ring and pinion gear out around 100 hundred runs it will live that long as proven in many bracket and NHRA class cars. Those that use that maintenace routine normally sell the used ring and piniuons to help pay for the new ones If you want a bullet proof rear end then use the Dana 60
is he stuck in the 1960s or what
LMFAO
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Re: 8.75 or 9" Rear?
[Re: DoctorDiff]
#490523
10/12/09 12:57 PM
10/12/09 12:57 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,760 Port Alberni, British Columbia
MoparDonny
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,760
Port Alberni, British Columbia
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I've got some Mark Williams caps , a Strange spool, Yukon Axles, and a billit yoke for my 8-3/4 but haven't put them all in yet . I was gonna build a nice backbraced housing first and a good center with my parts and bolt it all in. I was however considering a Moser 875 housing but that would be around 1200 alone up here I'm sure. Anyone used one of those housings yet?? Don.
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Re: 8.75 or 9" Rear?
[Re: MoparDonny]
#490526
10/18/09 11:17 PM
10/18/09 11:17 PM
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 4,070 Mo.
racerx
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 4,070
Mo.
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Quote:
I've got some Mark Williams caps , a Strange spool, Yukon Axles, and a billit yoke for my 8-3/4 but haven't put them all in yet . I was gonna build a nice backbraced housing first and a good center with my parts and bolt it all in. I was however considering a Moser 875 housing but that would be around 1200 alone up here I'm sure. Anyone used one of those housings yet??
Don.
Installed
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Re: 8.75 or 9" Rear?
[Re: DoctorDiff]
#490527
10/19/09 12:14 AM
10/19/09 12:14 AM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 673 Emmett, Idaho
SuperStockWagon
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 673
Emmett, Idaho
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Quote:
Of course. 9" rears and small block Chevy engines go hand in hand.
Thats what I'm talking about! Don't forget those chebby hood scoops too!
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