I have tried both the OEM cast and a chrome aftermarket style like the one below. I have sanded off the chrome, tried different sealers, even tried the Right Stuff gasket maker...still leaks. Has anyone used the O-ring style or a billet aluminum type? If so, how well do they seal? I'm running an oem iron water pump housing. Do the new aluminum housings seal better? Thanks in advance!!

Chrome = junk, buy a billet, cast steel or sand the stock one flat and use that.

I would suggest drawfiling the water pump manifold itself also & making sure the bolts aren't bottoming out just before they get tight.

I bought mine from Roger Gibson Restorations about 2 yrs. ago and hasn't leaked yet.

I ent through this. Here's what I learned. 1) Avoid the chrome MP type - they warp if you look at them too hard. 2) Iron (NAPA)or steel (440 source) works best. Some folks have had good results with billet aluminum (Mancini). Check flatness with a straight edge and trial fitting. If there's any rock when trial fitting without gasket you've got warpage. Use a belt sander or file to get the mating surfaces flat. Use some hardening type Permatex with a gasket as insurance. Don't overtorque - it will cause warpage and leaks.

Thanks guys, I will pick up a Napa iron one tomorrow.

Mancini Billet. One and only. Chrome Junk. NAPA Superstat 180. All good.

hey John,mine leaked at first,then i filed both surfaces,new gasket used red high heat permatex,bolted it down(be sure bolts aern't bottoming out) then i let it sit overnight before adding any coolant,i know it sounds aweful simple but it hasn't leaked since.and i'm using my original neck. good luck Darren

These CSR hosuings are all we use. We have good luck with them and sell quite a few.
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/produ...mp;partid=24196

What do you recommend for a thermostat for the CSR swivels? CSR recommends the small Chevy style but it is so small it falls right into the hole in the pump housing.

I had a troublesome water neck. I ended up using a file to "block sand" the water pump housing, and did the same to the water neck. once I started filing down to shiney new metal, I could see that BOTH parts were not flat. once they were both flat, no more problems.

Never used anything but OEM.The "very" few that I had leak took one trip over the belt sander and never leaked again.One of the other problems is the paper gasket with the peel off adhesive backing.Get a good gasket or make your own out of good material.

I'm using the OEM with two gaskets and black permatex. no leaky

I have the Mopar Performance aluminum housing. Maybe the opening is slightly larger than the stock cast iron or maybe as you said, your thermostat is a bit larger. CSR said to use the 52mm Chevy but as I said, that one just drops down the hole.

My story regarding the chevy thermostat:

I tried a Meziere water neck that's listed as working for an RB engine. They don't tell you that you have to mill it if you're using a stock type water pump. After calling and finding out to mill it and use a chevy thermostat, I got it milled and then went to put it on to find out that the thermostat is the same size as the water pump outlet. I was not pleased.

I'm using a MP 90 degree water neck with no trouble at all.

Hey John, I have a stock iron neck, and i use the brown liquid sealer in a bottle I get from CarQuest. No leaks ever. I knew an old truck mechinac, he always used weatherstriping glue for gaskets. Bear to get off, but never leaked.

Indian head gasket sealer is that the name of it?

I dont use gaskets on the thermostat housings, as they all will leak over time, plus i like shiny things lol.

Get a can of right stuff, put a 1/8 bead all the way around the housing and tighten it up. you will never have a leak again