For a stock headed big block? I will be changing the springs on my 906 headed 440 big block 73 dart.I will be changing the springs with out pulling the heads. so i am looking for advice on which one to use. also it has to be able to clear tti 2 inch headers.I have a cheep parts store one that has a knob you turn to tightened down the spring. But after using it on my old 65 with some dual valve springs my hands hurt for 2 days. so i am looking for a better way. thanks Mopar65

I made one for my shaft rocker small block out of a old hyd rocker and a piece of flat bar, it works good, cut a notch in the rocker so the valve and keepers fall thru ,you may want to use a old rocker shaft so you don't scratch up a good one

Comp cams model # 5324 is the one I borrowed.....worked like a charm.

That`s the same as comps...........like everything else they sell, they claim it`s their own.

thanks for the reply's guys that is the one i was thinking about. but could not remember who made it.thanks Mopar65

I have the comp cams one Hyper Henry just left with it a couple hours ago. one hint make sure piston your are working on is at TDC and you may have to tap (hard) retainer with a plastic or brass hammer to unseat the keepers.
I made my air thingy by breaking apart a spark plug and welding a male air end to it

I never use air.

My 4 1/2 year old teflon seals held my valves up just fine although I understand sometimes air is mandatory.

or go with John Dibartolomeo, a nice guy and avid racer. DRCraceproducts.com Got mine from him many many years ago.

Valve Spring Removal Tool

Finally a tool designed to work specifically with the high springs pressures of today's engines. This tool, with its detachable handle, will safely remove the valve springs while the cylinder heads are on the motor. Forget about bending or twisting tools, this one's right for the job. It will push the valve spring straight down and make a normally tough job an easy one. In addition to the below specifications, this tool can be had in "custom designed" configurations to fit special applications.

#1010 -- Small Block Chevy w/shaft rocker system "A"=3.495"
#1011 -- Big Block Chevy w/shaft rocker system "A"=1.55" to 1.65"
#1012 -- Small Block Mopar 318-360, 3.3 liter V6 "A"=4.450"
#1013 -- Big Block Mopar 383-440 "A"=4.825"
#1014 -- Small & Big Block Chevy w/stud rockers
#101013 -- Pivot shaft for Dart Big Chief heads "A"=2.150 & 2.660

So far, all the engines I've changed springs on, the valve would
hit the piston @ TDC before the spring would coil bind.

Over the winter someone on here said to run a rope in the plug hole with the piston @ tdc and pop the valve springs with no air, works great

i use the one mancini sells. i use my compressor tester fitting/hose for the air pressure. works great

btw, if theres nothing in the cylinder such as a rope or air to stop the valve from opening, how can you compress the spring without also pushing the valve down at the same time? a valve stem seal cant have enough grip on the valve to hold it while you compress the spring

The one from mancini worked ok for me, no air, no rope, seals held up the valves. They were fairly new. If you have old seals it would be a good time to replace them. Only problem I had was by the master cylinder, seems my right hand fingers worked better than the left one's putting those keepers back in.

I bought this one from Mancini. It is a little pricey, but when it comes time to change heavy pressure springs it is hard to top this tool. The springs on my Indy SR's are 300 lbs on the seat and 645 lbs open and this compressor does not even break a sweat. I also have always used a piece of nylon rope with the end melted with a lighter stuffed in the cylinder with the piston brought up to top dead center to hold the valves.

Ed.