Having problems finding any info or wiring schematics for my 1966 Charger. I have owned it for 11 years and the Electroluminescent dash lights have never worked. I have always heard it's the E.L. driver that is the main problem. I recently got a prototype driver from a gentlemen in Maine to test on my car. I replaced mine with his sealed unit and still no worky. I have an extra driver I got years back but had never installed. So, I tried it. Still nothing.

It's possible that I have 3 non-op units but unlikely. The proto unit was tested by the builder and worked properly. I am curious what else may be my problem. If it matters, my hide-a-way headlights don't function from in the car but I can manually jump them from under the hood at the motor one at a time. I have replaced the switch and the circuit breaker behind the drivers side kick panel with no results. I am at a loss and have no clue where to start looking next.

In the picture is my prototype unit on top in it's plastic cover. On bottom is a factory driver from my car. Thanks in advance.

Vinny

Make sure you have 12v feed to the supply (it is actually a variable voltage since it is off the headlight rheostat so it could be considerably less than 12v). If you have that, check that you have roughly 300v dc from the supply.

Check out this place for help as well:

http://www.66-67charger.com/

They've got a small forum and are dedicated to those cars.

E.L. dash lights on the 66-67 Charger use the same basics as the 60-62 Chrysler 300s. The power unit is the same for both cars, and can be rebuilt by any competent electronics person. There is no connection between headlight motor function and the dash lights, unless the headlight switch itself is bad. If any--repeat--any-- gauge or radio light malfunctions in a 66-67 Charger, it will shut the whole dash light system down. The console shift illumination strip is included in the system...that's the one that many overlook. One way to test for a bad light circuit is to remove the entire dash cluster, rig a 12v source running through a spare power pack(known to be good, and don't forget the ground wire)to the cluster and bypass each gauge until you find the one that's bad. Keep in mind the radio dial is E.L. also; one other thing, check to make sure the rheostat dimming function is good on your headlight switch.
Use caution, the power pack changes DC current to 200v AC to make the gauges glow, so it will bite. Ask me how I know.

I have no power at the driver. Which wire do I jump with 12V. The white or orange? If I jump it with 12V it should work,right?I am sure my tach doesn't work and my radio is M.I.A. so is that my problem?

Thanks, Vinny

The orange wire should have 12v (or less depending on where the dash dimmer is turned to).

For reference, the orange wire to the power pack is 12v; the white wire is 200v AC output from the power pack.
Here's the method of testing the panel(removed)as per the service manual:
"Using a 12v test battery and 4 jumper wires, connect one jumper from the white wire terminal on the cluster to the white wire terminal of the test power pack. Connect another jumper wire from the base of the power pack to the negative post of the test battery. Connect a third jumper wire between the base of the power pack and the cluster housing to provide a ground. The fourth jumper wire is clipped to the orange lead of the power pack, but do not connect the free end of this wire to the battery at this time.CAUTION: do not attempt to disconnect the white wires from the gauges with the battery connected to the cluster!
Remove the wire of one gauge and touch the end of the fourth jumper wire to the positive post of the test battery. If the remaining gauges light, the disconnected gauge is faulty and must be replaced. Test each gauge until the shorted gauge is located"
I know the radio in your car is out, but if you know your power pack to be good, and the cluster is still in the car, you can check for a shorted gauge by disconnecting the white cluster wire connector behind the instrument panel. If the radio dial lights when the headlight switch is turned on, then one of the gauges is faulty.
All this is per the service manual.
If the gauge cluster checks OK, and all other electrical components in the system, (headlight switch, fuses, grounds, etc)check OK, then check the shift selector lighting strip. One spill of Coke on this thing will eventually corrode and kill them...Remove it and test it separately while you have all the test wires set up. I hope this helps somewhat.

Try jcauto.com , this is one of their specialties.

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