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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: RoboGeek]
#39155
10/24/09 10:19 PM
10/24/09 10:19 PM
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 51
CA
Peckinpah
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My guess would be that the paint was not completely dry in those areas. This is only a guess though.
EDIT: I see someone else beat me to the punch. Two votes for "not completely dry" then.
Last edited by Peckinpah; 10/24/09 10:20 PM.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: _Scott_]
#39156
10/24/09 10:32 PM
10/24/09 10:32 PM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 93
New York
tt455
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Quote:
tt455,
It looks like you need more dry time. A soft paint will not polish well. The harder it is, the easier it will be to bring out a nice shine.
Not many people have been ambitious enough to tackle black. I suspect that's why we haven't seen a lot more of these "hazy" problems. Black and other dark colors are going to show those types of problems more prominently than lighter colors.
Thanks. So can this still be saved? Can I still polish this out at a later time?
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: tt455]
#39157
10/25/09 08:08 AM
10/25/09 08:08 AM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 44
USA
_Scott_
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Quote:
So can this still be saved? Can I still polish this out at a later time?
If you already have enough paint to survive more polishing, then just wait a month or two and polish again.
If you burn through or it gets thin enough that you can see thin spots, it can always be saved by sanding and applying more paint.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: _Scott_]
#39158
10/25/09 09:49 AM
10/25/09 09:49 AM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 93
New York
tt455
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Quote:
Quote:
So can this still be saved? Can I still polish this out at a later time?
If you already have enough paint to survive more polishing, then just wait a month or two and polish again.
If you burn through or it gets thin enough that you can see thin spots, it can always be saved by sanding and applying more paint.
Should have plenty of paint,I put 10 coats on and only polished once.
Why the roof came out so good with only one quick polish is still a head scratcher.I did everything the same,unless the roof dried quicker?
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: tt455]
#39159
10/25/09 01:07 PM
10/25/09 01:07 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
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Quote:
Why the roof came out so good with only one quick polish is still a head scratcher.I did everything the same,unless the roof dried quicker?
I suspect that roofs turn out better then hoods, is because the hood has also been subjected to heat from underneath during its lifetime. Whereas the roof only is subjected to the heat and UV of the sun from above...
The other thing about hoods is that they are the most visible for spotting any imperfections since they catch the suns rays and give off reflections and refractions with every beam of light. Although it doesn't explain the hood situation, except that you are not able to stand at the same angles looking down at it ( as compared to the hood ) to see similar possible imperfections.
Anyhow... I found that during the course of my waxing and polishing I tried a number of different products and each had somewhat different effects on the end shine.
My best luck at the final waxing was with just pure Carnuba wax ( by McGuiars ).. it smells like bananas. It seemed to penetrated better, take away any fogging, and put a better overall shine on the surface.
This is where you have really read the labels of the products that you are using - to fully understand exactly what it is claiming that it will do.
Possibly the worst product to use for the final waxing is one of the hybrid products that claims that it both cleans and waxes. Those ones tend to use some type of petroleum distillate as their 'cleaning' component. The wax or shiny chemical blended with those products may be compatible together... but you can't be sure how the petroleum distillate component may react with the paint you are applying it to.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: Marq]
#39160
10/26/09 12:28 PM
10/26/09 12:28 PM
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Anonymous
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Possibly the worst product to use for the final waxing is one of the hybrid products that claims that it both cleans and waxes. Those ones tend to use some type of petroleum distillate as their 'cleaning' component. The wax or shiny chemical blended with those products may be compatible together... but you can't be sure how the petroleum distillate component may react with the paint you are applying it to.
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It is funny you should mention this as I thought a couple people (or at least 1) had used Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #7 with success. This contains petroleum distillates and I would think is safe for our paint jobs. I will probably give a test area some attention with this to see how it works out. Is that comment from experience, something you read etc.?
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
#39161
10/26/09 06:36 PM
10/26/09 06:36 PM
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Anonymous
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k guys the time has come!! i get paid next week and it's time to put my parts list together! so i will be putting down rusto metal primer and doing bottom 4-5 coats rusto gloss white and doing the rest with bright side. so i can only afford one quart of bright side so thats how many coats i'll be doing of that. but how many quarts (rusto produacts) will i need to do a teeny car? and how many cans of MS? also getting..... 12 dense foam rollers lots of sand paper 220, 400, 500, 600, 1000, 1500, and a lil 2000 and some foam brushes from a craft store. i will also be making a tent in my garage because i'm sure i'll be pretty anal about how this looks. i've read around but i dont recal reading what the proper application technique is so could some one explain how much paint to put on and stuff like that? oh yah what dillution should all the coats be? from primer to final coats? 50/50 ?  <------thats gunna be me mixin' the paint 
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: RoboGeek]
#39163
10/26/09 06:51 PM
10/26/09 06:51 PM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 246
middleOnowhere CA
THEYOUNGGUN53
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middleOnowhere CA
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sorry for not having any pics in the past week or so, I've been buisy experamenting with paint. Since I no longer have an Ace hardware near me and no one could mix rustoleum I decided to take on the challenge myself. To my suprize I actually got it pretty darn close  heres what I'm shooting for  and heres what I got   I did it by mixing gloss white, almond, hunter green, and smoke gray. I've put another coat on since that picture so the color is a little different. I made about two and a half quarts which I'm hopeing should be enough for now or any future (god forbid) fender benders.
a car is never "done"
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
#39164
10/26/09 07:01 PM
10/26/09 07:01 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
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Quote:
It is funny you should mention this as I thought a couple people (or at least 1) had used Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #7 with success. This contains petroleum distillates and I would think is safe for our paint jobs. I will probably give a test area some attention with this to see how it works out. Is that comment from experience, something you read etc.?
I am basing it on two things... one being my hands on experiments with various polishes and waxes, and the other being simple logic...
The simple logic is that our paint jobs made extensive use of 'mineral spirits' to thin down the paint for applying. And we already know that it takes X amount of time for the mineral spirit ( which is being used as the 'carrier' ) to fully evaporate from the layers of paint we lay down. So it only would be logical that if you put something on to our paint ( before it is 100% cured ) that contains a distillate, then it may act to weaken the paint or at least cause some form of discoloration. This is even more likely when we are polishing and actually removing a thin layer of the outer skin of the paint and exposing a less cured or less hardened surface underneath.
Now... flip back to a 'genuine' factory paint job for a second. Those puppys are baked on at high heat. Hence no carrier is sitting in the paint at all. And since most folks would never lay a cleansing polish on a fresh factory paint job... it is only an aged or absolutely cured paint job that you might safely use one of those 'cleanser' type polishes that contain a distilate.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: Marq]
#39165
10/26/09 07:31 PM
10/26/09 07:31 PM
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middleOnowhere CA
THEYOUNGGUN53
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alright, I've got a really crazy question for you Marq. I've heard of guys painting things like viynl door panels, head liners, and convertible tops with auto paint by simply adding a "flex agent" and spraying it on. I was curious if its possible to do the same with rustoleum and roll it on?  heres an example of what I mean 
Last edited by THEYOUNGGUN53; 10/26/09 07:37 PM.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: THEYOUNGGUN53]
#39166
10/26/09 08:44 PM
10/26/09 08:44 PM
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could some one plz not forget my post above? i'm still curious and i dont think i'll need the 500 grit and some rough guesses put me around 200 dollars wich comes out to $90 paint $110 supplies. but thanks for your advise on looking at it straight on for finding imperfections i think i'll be looking all over the thing. but i need a rought guess on how much paint to buy? primer (rusto) i'll remember to apply thin rusto and brightside 
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
#39167
10/26/09 08:53 PM
10/26/09 08:53 PM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 246
middleOnowhere CA
THEYOUNGGUN53
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I'm sure you could get away with 320, 400, 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit. as far as how much paint you need it all depends on how big the car is. The normal amount is about 2 quarts. this is normally titled "$50 paint job" but to get perfect results you probably will have to spend around the 90-100 dollar range. hope this helps
a car is never "done"
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: THEYOUNGGUN53]
#39168
10/27/09 12:29 AM
10/27/09 12:29 AM
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yah that helps cause it's a small honda civic and i'm doing half rusto half brightside so i'll grab a quart of each and also i will be primering too. but since i'm missing lots of supplies i'll probably spen around 200 once i do all my prep work and body stuff.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: THEYOUNGGUN53]
#39169
10/27/09 07:27 AM
10/27/09 07:27 AM
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 58
MD, USA
v8mirage
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Quote:
alright,
I was curious if its possible to do the same with rustoleum and roll it on?
heres an example of what I mean
I would think that the rustoleum would just sit on top of the plastic or vinyl. It certainly would be ok on the steel parts. I would go to Eastwood to get the right stuff for the interior.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: THEYOUNGGUN53]
#39170
10/27/09 07:28 AM
10/27/09 07:28 AM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
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Quote:
alright, I've got a really crazy question for you Marq. I've heard of guys painting things like viynl door panels, head liners, and convertible tops with auto paint by simply adding a "flex agent" and spraying it on.
I was curious if its possible to do the same with rustoleum and roll it on?
heres an example of what I mean
My first instinct is to say that for durability you would be better off just buying the paint which is actually designed for recoloring vinyl. I think the key here is the durability factor... as the painted surface will be exposed to more 'touching' and hence more eventual wear and tear.
I have used these vinyl paints in the past and they did an excellent job for color coverage and long term durability.
But ultimately, in the end, nothing beats hunting down used interior panels of the color that you wish. In the Mustang Fox world, there was a real hunt on for black interiors. Guys were paying a premium dollar for mint black vinyl interiors. And occassionally you would have some poor dude who would try to paint his gray vinyl over to black - and it just never seemed to work out and last in the long run.
The other option is to take the vinyl parts to an upholstery shop ( automotive or boating ) and simply have them re-skin them with the vinyl of your choice. It cost more but it does ensure you end up with something that looks great.
I ended up taking the rear section of my passenger compartment and having it redone by a boat/auto upholster. For the front door panels, I searched e-bay and eventually bought three sets of gray vinyl trim ( that were all in mint condition... just slightly different styles of the same thing ). For the seats, I also went to e-bay and bought a mint set of leather seats that were literally brand new ( less then 100 miles on them ).
So the point of all that is that even though I had played with the vinyl paints in the past, in the end I ultimately went with OEM used parts and newly re-upholstered parts in order to do the color change of my interior.
Afterall...in the end... your butt is going to be sitting in those seats and looking at that interior for the next x number of years. You might as well do it right rather then a mediocre job that will bug you everytime you climb in the car 
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: Marq]
#39171
10/27/09 03:12 PM
10/27/09 03:12 PM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 246
middleOnowhere CA
THEYOUNGGUN53
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thaks for the advice also I probably should have mentiond that in all of the Herbie movies they painted the interior of the car a flat gray color so the camera lighting wouldn't make a glare durring filming. Obviously they wern't thinking long term when they did this, so for those of us trying to make an exact replica we have to make due with what we can. that car in the picture the guy spent 8 years and $40,000 restoring it, and he still had to paint the door panels, lol. as far as seats go they do sell repro covers with any color under the sun from at least 6 different manufacturs. The problem I'm facing is that my headliner is in perfect origional shape, so I'd hate to tear it out to put a new one in just to have the color I want. I have heard of the vinyl paints, so that may be a possibility.
a car is never "done"
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