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Re: Myth of Orange Peel! [Re: Marq] #38854
07/23/09 02:30 PM
07/23/09 02:30 PM
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middleOnowhere CA
THEYOUNGGUN53 Offline
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I also use two rags.

thank you for the advice guys, I'll try it and see if it works.


a car is never "done"
Re: Myth of Orange Peel! [Re: THEYOUNGGUN53] #38855
07/23/09 03:32 PM
07/23/09 03:32 PM

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I am finishing a fiberglass hardtop for my MGB. I'm doing it on a budget, so I've been investigating roll on/brush on methods in lieu of a $400 professional spray. I don't have any spray equipment myself.

This forum has confirmed my research on Interlux topsides paint as a possibility.

I've had some concerns that the final coat will show brush marks and lint/hair/etc. unless I wet sand and polish after the final coat. However, Interlux technicals advise not to wet sand or polish the final coat, or I will damage the finish and destroy the gloss. Reading through the forums, I find that some do final wet sanding, some do not with the Brightsides paint. Do you have any experience with wet sanding these marine paints?

I was thinking to use the two part Perfection, as I thought it would look better, and be a more durable finish for a hardtop that is being taken on and off the car fairly frequently. But after reading the forums, I'm not sure any more. Cost difference is not an issue, as I'm not using much paint on the top. Is Brightsides adequate? Has anyone experience in wet sanding the final coat of the two part system?

I was also thinking that the two part system, at least the primer phase, would be better for refinishing of an old fiberglass (gelcoated) top to stabilize the surface. Am I being paranoid?

Re: Myth of Orange Peel! #38856
07/24/09 01:03 AM
07/24/09 01:03 AM
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Canada
Marq Offline
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Quote:



I was also thinking that the two part system, at least the primer phase, would be better for refinishing of an old fiberglass (gelcoated) top to stabilize the surface. Am I being paranoid?






The Brightside paint and a removable fiberglass convertible top are a natural match - since the Brightside was designed for use on boats

I would sand that top with a 600 grit... and just get it as smooth and dull as possible ( to provide a good surface for the paint to anchor itself on.

As for doing wet sanding on Brightside paint. You must remember that the final shine requirements for a car compared to a boat are different. For the car... we want the maximum shine. In order to get the maximum shine you have to wetsand things as you go along and with the final coat in order to maximize the smoothness of the surface. The smoother the surface... the more gloss and reflection it will have.

As for the durability.. I do not think you are going to encounter any difference in how you would handle a Brightside rolled top... as compared to one that had been sprayed with automotive paint. Either way you will be exercising caution when removing or storing the top.

Further on the durability... just remember that it is a 'boat paint'... and as such it is designed to take all the typical abuses ( both physical and enviromental ) that a boat would be subject to.

I would stick with the one stage Brightside paint ( as compared to the two stage version ), simply because it is more forgiving of mistakes during the rolling process.

But if you follow the suggestions posted regarding the rolling process, you should not encounter glaring brush streaks etc.

In fact... you probably have one of the most ideal projects for doing a 'roll you own'. It is small and relatively flat surface. You can probably lay 20 coats of ultra-thinned paint on to that puppy and still have it all finished in two or three weeks ( and that is including all the time spent doing wetsanding etc ).

.

Last edited by Marq; 07/24/09 01:04 AM.
Re: Myth of Orange Peel! [Re: Marq] #38857
07/24/09 03:18 AM
07/24/09 03:18 AM
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Bakersfield, CA
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Has anyone here used a Porter Cable 7424 for correction of paint after wet sanding?

I'm curious to see some sample of this.

Re: Myth of Orange Peel! [Re: kenzo42] #38858
07/25/09 10:11 AM
07/25/09 10:11 AM
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Canada
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Quote:

Has anyone here used a Porter Cable 7424 for correction of paint after wet sanding?

I'm curious to see some sample of this.




I LOVE my Porter Cable 7424... and I use it whenever I am bored and looking for a fun way to kill an hour polishing my cars

I don't really understand what you mean by 'correction' of paint after wet sanding.

If your wet sanding has not gotten the painted surface smooth enough... about the only use the P&C would be... is if you slapped the wooly bonnet on it and used it to try to further smoother the surface.

But what you must remember is that to go from a completed paint job to a finished product.... you go through the wetsanding stages by using finer and finer grit sand paper. The whole point being that you are improving on the smoothness of each previous level of sanding.

Normally... the Porter Cable comes to work once you have finally used sand paper at the highest grit level and the sand paper can no longer improve on the smoothness of the painted surface.

Or a simply way of looking at things... the sand paper... through the various grits... takes you from 800 grit... up to 2000 grit. AND the Porter Cable is simply a further refining of the grit you are throwing at that surface to smoothen it... So the P&C is going from 2000 grit and up to a possible maximum of 4000 grit ( depending on what type of product you are applying to the painted surface - ie rubbing compound or polish )

Clarification : just remember that a "polish' is simply a further higher level of 'gritiness' and should not be mistaken for the 'waxing or protective stage'. Manufacturers are too blame for the confusion between polishing products and waxing products.

BUT if your painted surface is sitting at roughly the appearance of an 800 grit... well it is kind of useless trying to put the P&C to work using its 2000 to 4000 grit to try to knock back the 800 grit.

Now, I have heard of some folks who swear that by using the 'wooly bonnet' on their paint... they are able to get a more agressive polishing of the surface. So for arguments sake, let us just specualte or guess that the wooly bonnet is providing say a 1000 or 1500 'grit equivalent'.

So the 'wooly bonnet' might be useful to go nuts on an 800 grit equivalent surface and rapidly get it to a 1000 or 1500 'grit equivalent'. BUT the warning here is that because it is more agressive then a 'wet sanding'... you run the risk of literally polishing away your paint IF you allow the polisher to remain on one spot too long. So it is do-able, but you must take great care when doing it.

As for me... I would tend to think that the P&C's greatest charm and benefits come when you are using it to :

a ) applying a rubbing compound ( like the Turtle Wax rubbing compound - the murky brown clay looking stuff - or something like the 3m or other manufacturer type 'rubbing compounds'. At this point the 'rubbing compound is providing the equivalent to a 2000 - 3000 grit equivalent - and is really just further enhancing the smoothness of the surface.

b ) applying a good quality polishing compound which is simply taking things to yet a higher level of fine gritiness ( let's say from 3000 to 4500 grit )

c ) applying a good quality waxing compound, which should have no gritiness to it... but instead is attempting to seal the painted surface and lay down a protective barrier on to the paint to keep the Ultraviolet out, the oxygen out, water out and repel any other crapola that might land on the paint.

One thing you need to watch for, as you shop the aisles at your local automotive shop for rubbing compounds, waxes and polishes is to read carefully what each of the products is designed to do by the manufacturers.

For example, there are a lot of 'hybrid' products out there that 'try' to make your life easier by combining two aspects of the task together. For example... a wax with a cleaner, or a wax with a polish, or inversely a polish with a wax etc.

In your mind....... as you pick the products or even the method by which to apply them, you have to visualize how each of those products are helping you to progress further towards achieving the absolute smoothness of the surface that fits with your level of patience

So I hope this long winded explanation touches on some things and explains the process better, so that you can bring about your own conclusion on whether the Porter and Cable should be deployed at a certain stage to accomplish some 'corrective' measure.....

The simple and short answer would be " IF you figure that the finish needs to be additionally tweaked to get it smooth... the odds are that the easiest answer probably rest with choosing the proper grit of sand paper and doing some further wet sanding.... and to save the Porter and Cable for the finishing tweaking of the surface to maximize its final smoothness.

.

Last edited by Marq; 07/25/09 10:16 AM.
Re: Myth of Orange Peel! [Re: Marq] #38859
07/28/09 03:11 PM
07/28/09 03:11 PM
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middleOnowhere CA
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alright, I got that adhesion problem sorted out with the hood. I had to sand off all of the paint I put on but the new paint is sticking much better.

(sorry about the crappy pictures)

every thing has two coats on it so far.









(this acctualy has about three coats)






a car is never "done"
moparts paint job on a budjet #38860
07/28/09 10:52 PM
07/28/09 10:52 PM
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middleOnowhere CA
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I rolled another coat onto the hood, its looking good













next is wet sanding


a car is never "done"
Re: moparts paint job on a budjet [Re: THEYOUNGGUN53] #38861
07/29/09 03:26 AM
07/29/09 03:26 AM
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middleOnowhere CA
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alright, just a couple more guys. I wet sanded every thing and gave all sides another coat.











sorry for posting so many pics, I'll tone it down for a while


a car is never "done"
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: THEYOUNGGUN53] #38862
07/29/09 11:14 AM
07/29/09 11:14 AM
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Southern, Ca.
69DartGT Offline OP
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Looks good!! You can always tell a good paint job when you can see a barefoot in the reflection
Glad the hood came out so good. Keep taking your time and you will have a car to be proud of.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: 69DartGT] #38863
07/29/09 04:48 PM
07/29/09 04:48 PM
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middleOnowhere CA
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THANK YOU!!!

I think thats only about three coats, I'm still going with brightside but I'm using the Rusto to get good coverage first.

I decided to push the car out into the drive way to get a look at it out in the sun. The paint is so shiney its hurting my eyes...in a good way I'm finnaly going over my car!!

it actualy looks much better in person, my camera sucks











a car is never "done"
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: THEYOUNGGUN53] #38864
07/29/09 09:27 PM
07/29/09 09:27 PM
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middleOnowhere CA
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heres another shot of the hood in a different light





a car is never "done"
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: THEYOUNGGUN53] #38865
07/29/09 10:21 PM
07/29/09 10:21 PM
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Southern, Ca.
69DartGT Offline OP
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I'm curious what is your plan as to how you are going to paint the rest of the car, a panel at a time?
I'm thinking at some point you need to do the whole car in one day, maybe that light color won't be a problem but seems to me at some stage you need to coat the car all in one so some aren't darker or lighter then others?

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: 69DartGT] #38866
07/29/09 10:47 PM
07/29/09 10:47 PM
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middleOnowhere CA
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you are correct, at one point I will be doing the whole car evenly.

You see I started out just as a test, but then I got a little...carried away

I started painting before I compleated all the body work, which is why I haven't been able to paint it all at once.


a car is never "done"
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: THEYOUNGGUN53] #38867
07/31/09 04:18 PM
07/31/09 04:18 PM

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First off, this thread is awesome!


Im ready to start my paint process and am trying to find (non-odorless) mineral spirits.


Ive been to 4 stores and everyone carries ODORLESS MS.


From the hundreds of pages that Ive read it says the regular MS produces better results.


Should I just get the odorless MS?

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38868
08/01/09 03:37 AM
08/01/09 03:37 AM
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middleOnowhere CA
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so far I've had no problem at all with the ODORLESS MS. I've been getting great results with it.

speeking of which I decided to give up on the bug, I gave it away to that cash for clunkers thing and bought me this instead!







I got a good deal on it though, it didn't come with any paint. So I was able to do my Brightside paint job after all


a car is never "done"
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: THEYOUNGGUN53] #38869
08/01/09 04:13 AM
08/01/09 04:13 AM
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Missouri
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painting an old beetle on a budget..... but had money to buy that thing

where's the scratching head smiley???

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: 69DartGT] #38870
08/01/09 11:28 AM
08/01/09 11:28 AM

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I am new here and a Chevy owner (69 Chevelle). Just looking for opinions on the color combo. When I got the car in 85 it was black/parchment. I am thinking about putting it bac to factory Dover White/Parchment, but am not sure if I like the combo. Had the body off, new quarters, fenders, and it is an original SS car with the original #'s matching standard bore engine/trans/rear end. I mixed up some Rustoleum white and almond to match the factory color. Please click on the link below.

http://barry13.winkflash.com/

like the color combo?
single choice
Votes accepted starting: 08/01/09 12:00 PM
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38871
08/01/09 12:59 PM
08/01/09 12:59 PM
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WV,USA
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This a mopar site. We don't care about that other junk.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: wvmarv] #38872
08/01/09 04:13 PM
08/01/09 04:13 PM
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Piqua, Ohio
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This may be a Mopar site, but "all that other junk" is more than welcome in this thread. One of the guys with the best advice did his work on a Mustang. This topic is open to ALL who wishes to try it.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38873
08/01/09 04:22 PM
08/01/09 04:22 PM
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Piqua, Ohio
dodgeram440 Offline
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Barry, I would say that all depends on what you want for the look of the car. All though it is a numbers matching car, my guess is you aren't concerned with overall value since you are using the rustoleum roll-on approach to painting it. In my opinion, white is such a bland color. I would say paint it however you want, just make it look good.

BTW, I may be a Mopar guy myself, but my first car was a 68 Chevelle.

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