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Re: Iron vs. aluminum block
[Re: Hemiroid]
#385603
07/25/09 02:36 PM
07/25/09 02:36 PM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,165
Left Coast
BobR
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master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,165
Left Coast
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Quote:
I have to make a decision soon on what block to run and am looking for some input. Heads-up hemi, 65 belvedere trying to push the 1100 mark. I know the iron block will make more power, but it weighs a lot more as well. Is there anyone out there putting Worlds new block on a cnc diet? If so, any ideas on how light they can get? The one I saw weighed like 350lbs 
There's no wheelie bars allowed so weight on the nose might not be a bad thing. I do like the repairability of alum and the light weight, so it makes for a tough decision on what way to go.
Thanks in advance for any help 
IMo A filled aluminum block makes almost as much power as an iron block. Usually any power loss on aluminum blocks is from the cylinders moving around. Filling the block stabilizes the cylinders. Aluminum blocks are also less prone to cracking on high HP applications.
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Re: Iron vs. aluminum block
[Re: BobR]
#385604
07/25/09 04:32 PM
07/25/09 04:32 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,293
Rock Springs
Bob_Coomer
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master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,293
Rock Springs
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I went through this same dilemma this past fall. Last spring I built a Indy maxx block based moderate wedge around 560" or so. The block was a good piece, but the aluminum has its Pro's and Con's. The weight loss with aluminum is offset by the loss in power against the iron block. Some say at least 30hp some say as much as 50 hp. Its substantial IMO. Things move around with the aluminum engine, looking at just the lash growth, no need to look further. The aluminum block almost had twice the lash growth. Really the repairability is the only thing that IMO is worth the aluminum block. This years engine (572 Hemi) I went a diff route going with the new World Hemi block with a 4.5 bore. It is heavy easy 300+ lbs bare block and main caps. But this block looks to be very strong. And is very nicely finished. With the cost of good used factory Hemi blocks $4K-$5K..Its a no brainier, I leave these to the resto crowd and picked up a new much stronger block for half that. Here is a few pics to mull over.        
[color:"red"]65 Hemi Belvedere coming soon [/color]
[color:"#00FF00"]557" Indy engine 1.07 60ft 144mph in the 8th 2100 lbs package [/color]
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Re: Iron vs. aluminum block
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#385608
07/25/09 09:28 PM
07/25/09 09:28 PM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,165
Left Coast
BobR
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,165
Left Coast
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Quote:
Normally asperated, no power adder CGI or cast iron. Boost or power adders aluminum block 
Good call, Cab. I agree. I have found that the aluminum blocks, once filled, are pretty close in ring seal to an iron block but if the engine is N/A there may be a few ponies in the iron deal. A dry, billet aluminum block is the best of the best imo.
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Re: Iron vs. aluminum block
[Re: ro23car]
#385609
07/25/09 09:32 PM
07/25/09 09:32 PM
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 705
Michigan
Hemiroid
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 705
Michigan
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Quote:
hey hemmoriod hows work? i have a world prod iron block for my stuff its heavy but i think its a better deal for the cost.
Same crap, different day  Keeping my bills paid, but working on and buying parts for two cars is KILLING me!!
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Re: Iron vs. aluminum block
[Re: BobR]
#385610
07/25/09 09:36 PM
07/25/09 09:36 PM
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 705
Michigan
Hemiroid
OP
super stock
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OP
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 705
Michigan
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Quote:
Quote:
Normally asperated, no power adder CGI or cast iron. Boost or power adders aluminum block
Good call, Cab. I agree. I have found that the aluminum blocks, once filled, are pretty close in ring seal to an iron block but if the engine is N/A there may be a few ponies in the iron deal. A dry, billet aluminum block is the best of the best imo.
It's a heads-up, n/a all motor class. I'm kinda bringing a knife to a gun fight trying to compete with aerodynamic stangs with my taxicab but I love them too much to cave in to a newer body.
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Re: Iron vs. aluminum block
[Re: Barnstorm]
#385612
07/25/09 10:19 PM
07/25/09 10:19 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 302
Northeast Texas
MoparMuscle
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 302
Northeast Texas
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Yea, I wish I had one of the World iron blocks instead of the Keith Black that came with the Daytona.
Last edited by MoparMuscle; 07/26/09 10:40 AM.
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Re: Iron vs. aluminum block
[Re: TrxR]
#385615
07/26/09 12:26 AM
07/26/09 12:26 AM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,165
Left Coast
BobR
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master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,165
Left Coast
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Quote:
Would it make any difference if it was going to be a street/strip engine running on pump fuel? Would you still go Aluminum for forced induction?
PS sorry about the post jacking 
No. You are probably limited to 10 pounds or less boost and that isn't going to hurt an iron block. When you start cramming in 30+ pounds even the best iron blocks are susceptible to cracks and fatigue. Aluminum tends to absorb nasty harmonics better than iron.
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Post deleted by Defbob
[Re: CH3NO2]
#385617
07/26/09 12:56 AM
07/26/09 12:56 AM
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Anonymous
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Re: Iron vs. aluminum block
#385618
07/26/09 01:09 AM
07/26/09 01:09 AM
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 705
Michigan
Hemiroid
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OP
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Michigan
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Quote:
The newer aluminum blocks are head and heels above the older ones when it comes to loss of power. Today the thicker sleeves reduce power losses.
I've heard that as well. I'll probably just go aluminum and move the weight around where it's needed. Plus with my lard *** any weight savings is a plus 
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Post deleted by Defbob
[Re: Al_Alguire]
#385620
07/26/09 02:22 AM
07/26/09 02:22 AM
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Anonymous
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