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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: Marq] #38214
04/28/08 11:48 AM
04/28/08 11:48 AM

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Thanks Marc! man you are definetly amazing!. I will definetly post up pics when I'm done. How long do you reckon it will take me to strip my entire car off to bare metal with the power sander (home depot minimum rental time is 4 hours, would I be able to strip to abre metal by that time)? Also from your previous post, if i strip to bare metal...I jsut want to confirm, I only need one coat of primer after that right? I also noticed your in Canada, so I'm assuming you've used tremclad to pull this "50 dollar paint job" off. I went to homedepot but they only had the "rust paint" series. Is this is the series I should be using because I have read previous pages and apparently they need to be acrylic/enamel (or have it written on the tub somewhere). Where exactly do I check to see if it is acrylic/enamel, or is the rust paint series the wrong series I am looking at?

Last edited by ripthejacker; 04/28/08 12:29 PM.
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38215
04/28/08 04:37 PM
04/28/08 04:37 PM
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Molino, Fl.
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the rusto and tremclad are "Alkyd enamel" (oil based paint) good stuff. some are using Brightside Polyurethane (one-part polyurethane) and some say even better
Not acrylic, I do believe their is such an animal (paint) but I do not think it has been used by anyone on this forum,yet but I could be wrong since many different paint brands have been tried. I also did read in one of the offshoot web sites refer to rustoleum as acrylic and I believe that was just a mistake. Hope that little bit of info helps

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38216
04/29/08 01:20 AM
04/29/08 01:20 AM
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Oyevayboy,

I too came over from the NastyZ28 site back when the original thread was at around page 21. Boy, they STILL say this is a crappy way to paint a car over there, don't they?

I bought my '79 Sport Coupe for $750, and I plan on using this method to paint it black. Yeah, I know, hardest color. But, I used to have a black '79 Berlinetta, so black it is.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38217
04/29/08 01:48 AM
04/29/08 01:48 AM
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Canada
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Quote:

How long do you reckon it will take me to strip my entire car off to bare metal with the power sander (home depot minimum rental time is 4 hours, would I be able to strip to abre metal by that time)?





I dunno... but all things considered, I would probably just go to Walmart or Canadian Tire and buy a decent quality sander. If you 'rent' a unit you are going to be working 'under the gun' and constantly checking your watch. Buy a decent unit and its one of those tools that you will always find future uses for ( sanding furniture, powersanding walls, woodworking projects etc ) And in a worst case scenario ( not that I want to promote anyone doing anything unethical... ) you can run that powersander you buy 20 hours a day on your project for weeks AND if it should just happen to die, well Walmart and Canadian Tire are pretty friendly about giving you a refund for a burned out unit. But a decent powersander is the kind of tool that you will get many years of good use out of... ( its in the same category as having screwdrivers, socket sets and vice grips )

Quote:


Also from your previous post, if i strip to bare metal...I jsut want to confirm, I only need one coat of primer after that right?





You only need one coat of primer IF you are satisfied that it has given 100% coverage to the metal below and that it has produced a fairly smooth surface or one that can be wetsanded to make even smoother. The main benefit of going to 2 coats of primer is to guarantee your sealing of the metal surface from oxygen getting through to it. Also a 2nd coating of primer guarantees that you have a sufficient build of primer that you can do a thorough wet sanding to maximize the smoothness of the surface. As previously noted... the key to the best finished product begins with the smoothness of the surface that you are painting on. The smoother the beginning surface, the shinier and better finish you will get as you add on the coats of paint and when you get to the final polishing, waxing and buffing.

Quote:


I also noticed your in Canada, so I'm assuming you've used tremclad to pull this "50 dollar paint job" off. I went to homedepot but they only had the "rust paint" series. Is this is the series I should be using because I have read previous pages and apparently they need to be acrylic/enamel (or have it written on the tub somewhere). Where exactly do I check to see if it is acrylic/enamel, or is the rust paint series the wrong series I am looking at?




The Tremclad paint is a rust paint, just like the Rustoleum is a rust paint. The stuff you find at HomeDepot, Loews, Canadian Tire, Reno, Walmart, etc are the ones we have been using.

There are different 'qualities' of Tremclad/Rustoleum, where you have the standard issue stuff and the 'Professional Grade' stuff... and I think there is even a 'Marine Grade', 'Farm Grade' and an 'Industrial Grade'. Basically all these variations are the same thing and follow the same rules and processes as the 'standard issue' Tremclad/Rustoleum. Possibly the only advantage to the more premium versions of Tremclad/Rustoleum is that they 'might' have a higher concentration of color pigment. IF SO the theory would be that they would give faster color coverage when you are painting. Possibly the more premium versions may also have a little something different that might give them better color fastness, or UV protection or resiliancy. But I would suggest that if you are interested in getting those kind of benefits guaranteed, then you might as well jump over to Brightside paint by Interlux and enjoy the benefits of a polyurathane

BUT just to confirm, I began with the Tremclad, but after four or so coats I made the change over to Brightside and just started using it over the initial Tremclad coats. I found that the Brightside had better coverage AND as such I used it to reduce the number of overall layers or coatings that I would have to do if I had stayed with Tremclad. ( also I wanted the additional advantages of the polyurathane, compared to the enamel ).

I have read of people who have painted cars using acrylics and laquers... but neither are really suitable for this 'roll on' painting method. And frankly I don't think the average Joe can really do a paint shop quality job using either of them. However, on small projects, like a motorbike's gas tank or fender, I suspect anyone could work wonders with them given enough time, sweat and effort. One problem with acrylics and laquers is that they don't tend to flex and don't have much forgiveness when chipped by road gravel etc.

.

Last edited by Marq; 04/29/08 01:49 AM.
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: batjac] #38218
04/29/08 02:15 AM
04/29/08 02:15 AM
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Canada
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Quote:

Oyevayboy,

I too came over from the NastyZ28 site back when the original thread was at around page 21. Boy, they STILL say this is a crappy way to paint a car over there, don't they?





Sadly not everyone is blessed with gobs of cash in the bank to toss into the ultimate pimp makeover of their ride. And also unfortunately there are elitest snobs that would consider this painting method to be sacrilege on a car. But I have never tried to let purist dictate what I do with my rides...

I have a 91 Mustang Cobra - but I dropped the charcoal leather interior from a 2005 Mustang in to it. Purist cry that it is 'not original' - but I happen to like the charcoal leather... so I ignore them. I even went a step further at irritating the 'purist' by dropping a Saleen Mustang leather backseat into that car.

My 88 Mclaren Mustang is a genuine limited edition car ( not just a badge that says so ). The 'original' McLaren Recarro's were totally destroyed by the previous owner - dried up, cracked, holes and foam missing). To remain 'true' to the marque, I would have had to spend about $2000 to replace the seats with original replacements. So I found a 'Mercury Mountaineer' set of light gray leather seats from a 2006 Mountaineer that had been wrecked with less then 550 miles on it. The seats were mint and almost identical in appearance to the Mclaren hight bucket. So I dropped them into the McLaren at the bargain price of $50 EACH ! My bum can't tell the difference, but McLaren 'purist' would cry and hold crosses in the air when they see what sacrilege I have done

My 84 Firebird TransAM also went through a similar transformation, using the tan leather interior from a 2006 TransAm, the spoiler from a 91 Camaro, the GTA body parts of a 1990 etc etc. Purist cry... but the car looks great, feels great and is built to please me.. not them.

The only thing I will say about elitist is that sometimes their quest to be purist or true to their marque is at the expense of their pocket book. So they will drop $5000 on a paint job so that their snobby purist friends won't frown on their paint job or to get some kind of boasting rights about how much they paid for their paint job.

But a funny thing just struck me... they are called the NastyZ28's ? I wonder how they feel about the fact that the 'same year' Firebirds were the more premium cars - just as the Cuda is the richer mans version of the Challenger. If there is any snobbier allowed, then it really should go to the Cuda and Firebird guys... since they were the upper scale or more premium cars ?

Dunno... but with most world economies in financial trouble at this time, and the economic crunch reaching down in to everyone's budget... I guess the best laugh you can have at any snob who wants to put down a 'roll you own' paint job is this :

Two guys have Z28's. Both cars are in identical need for a paint job. One guy rolls his own paint job and spends about $250 on paint, supplies and equipment - the other guy spends $5000 at the pro paint shop.

In the end you have a pleasant to look at $250 freshly painted Z28 and a lovely showroom quality painted Z28. One of these drivers still has $4750 left to buy some engine performance parts or to buy a ton of gasoline...

When you get down to the economics of 'rolliing your own' compared to sending the car off to a pro-paint and body shop... well I think I would prefer to have that extra cash in MY pocket to do with what I want...

.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: Marq] #38219
04/29/08 08:13 AM
04/29/08 08:13 AM
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MD, USA
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Quote:


When you get down to the economics of 'rolliing your own' compared to sending the car off to a pro-paint and body shop... well I think I would prefer to have that extra cash in MY pocket to do with what I want...

.





AMEN!!!!!

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: Marq] #38220
04/29/08 10:27 PM
04/29/08 10:27 PM

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Quote:

Quote:

Oyevayboy,

I too came over from the NastyZ28 site back when the original thread was at around page 21. Boy, they STILL say this is a crappy way to paint a car over there, don't they?





Sadly not everyone is blessed with gobs of cash in the bank to toss into the ultimate pimp makeover of their ride. And also unfortunately there are elitest snobs that would consider this painting method to be sacrilege on a car. But I have never tried to let purist dictate what I do with my rides...

I have a 91 Mustang Cobra - but I dropped the charcoal leather interior from a 2005 Mustang in to it. Purist cry that it is 'not original' - but I happen to like the charcoal leather... so I ignore them. I even went a step further at irritating the 'purist' by dropping a Saleen Mustang leather backseat into that car.

My 88 Mclaren Mustang is a genuine limited edition car ( not just a badge that says so ). The 'original' McLaren Recarro's were totally destroyed by the previous owner - dried up, cracked, holes and foam missing). To remain 'true' to the marque, I would have had to spend about $2000 to replace the seats with original replacements. So I found a 'Mercury Mountaineer' set of light gray leather seats from a 2006 Mountaineer that had been wrecked with less then 550 miles on it. The seats were mint and almost identical in appearance to the Mclaren hight bucket. So I dropped them into the McLaren at the bargain price of $50 EACH ! My bum can't tell the difference, but McLaren 'purist' would cry and hold crosses in the air when they see what sacrilege I have done

My 84 Firebird TransAM also went through a similar transformation, using the tan leather interior from a 2006 TransAm, the spoiler from a 91 Camaro, the GTA body parts of a 1990 etc etc. Purist cry... but the car looks great, feels great and is built to please me.. not them.

The only thing I will say about elitist is that sometimes their quest to be purist or true to their marque is at the expense of their pocket book. So they will drop $5000 on a paint job so that their snobby purist friends won't frown on their paint job or to get some kind of boasting rights about how much they paid for their paint job.

But a funny thing just struck me... they are called the NastyZ28's ? I wonder how they feel about the fact that the 'same year' Firebirds were the more premium cars - just as the Cuda is the richer mans version of the Challenger. If there is any snobbier allowed, then it really should go to the Cuda and Firebird guys... since they were the upper scale or more premium cars ?

Dunno... but with most world economies in financial trouble at this time, and the economic crunch reaching down in to everyone's budget... I guess the best laugh you can have at any snob who wants to put down a 'roll you own' paint job is this :

Two guys have Z28's. Both cars are in identical need for a paint job. One guy rolls his own paint job and spends about $250 on paint, supplies and equipment - the other guy spends $5000 at the pro paint shop.

In the end you have a pleasant to look at $250 freshly painted Z28 and a lovely showroom quality painted Z28. One of these drivers still has $4750 left to buy some engine performance parts or to buy a ton of gasoline...

When you get down to the economics of 'rolliing your own' compared to sending the car off to a pro-paint and body shop... well I think I would prefer to have that extra cash in MY pocket to do with what I want...

.




For some reason or another the thought of painting you car inexpensively and easy just ticks some people off. I plan on rolling my '64 VW beetle for three reasons, 1. cost, 2. I can do it in my garage without fear of making my neighbors made 3. It's easy for me to do.

I'm excited!!

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38221
04/30/08 03:52 PM
04/30/08 03:52 PM

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If anybody is interested, I've begun testing shooting paint with the Harbor Freight Electric sprayer with Rustoleum professional at
http://rolledon.com/spraying-f6/hf-electric-sprayer-rustoleum-sunburst-yellow-project-t249.htm

I'm a newbie, and although I have read alot about the budget paint job, I had to try some stuff out on my own, make some mistakes and get the feel for it.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38222
04/30/08 06:04 PM
04/30/08 06:04 PM
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Gonna get it sprayed by someone else, with auto paint

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38223
04/30/08 09:35 PM
04/30/08 09:35 PM
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Molino, Fl.
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well I checked out your web site. This forum is full of trial and error experiments and thats one of the resons I like it so much. I do know for a fact that many guns have been used but that perticular one has not ( I think ) but I did notice that turbine gun and was tempted but decided NOT.... I hope it all comes together. I will say that acetone versus mineral spirits has been discused way way back. Mineral spirits won, acetone flashed " evaporated " to fast to allow the paint to level out. I distincly remember one guy had great results with rusto paint, mineral spirits and a air sprayer had very good results and virtuly no orange peel. from your test pieces I would say you should be able to get the mix with the right thinner ( MS )and get a smooth finish without all the orange peel

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ace250xr84] #38224
04/30/08 10:00 PM
04/30/08 10:00 PM

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Quote:

I will say that acetone versus mineral spirits has been discused way way back. Mineral spirits won, acetone flashed " evaporated " to fast to allow the paint to level out.




Yeah I've been reading as much as I can but I didn't get to that part. I was hearing so many different opinions and I just wanted to start getting familiar with the equipment. I think I got a bad taste for mineral spirits when I stupidly jumped in and added a boat load to some rustoleum I had lying around, dumped it into a compressor fed HVLP gun and started painting like it's 1999. The compressor was small and not powerful enough to atomize the paint properly. I read a post on set up of the gun and tried to set it up to those specks, but I didn't really understand the physics of what was going on and needless to say, it was like somebody drank a bunch of yellow milk and threw up everywhere. I tend to throw myself at the wolves when starting out, pick myself back up, spray on some bactine and throttle back. I think I need to revisit the mineral spirits, because I unfairly cast a little blame on it. No hard feelings right mineral spirits? See!...We can all get along.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38225
05/01/08 10:45 AM
05/01/08 10:45 AM

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Marq, Ive laid down 3 coats of brightside on my trunk (see last picture I posted) it really reflective but its also got some orange peel. now, It seems like for every coat of BS, its like 2 coats of rusty\trem. So far Ive wet sanded with 600 and 800. The final third coat has not been wet sanded. I know to wet sand with 1000g now, but if I wet sand it using 1000g it will become dull. im guessing this is where the polishing comes in. but what im trying to ask is, when you polish a surface, will it become dull again when the wax eventually wears off?

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38226
05/01/08 06:55 PM
05/01/08 06:55 PM
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Quote:

Marq, Ive laid down 3 coats of brightside on my trunk (see last picture I posted) it really reflective but its also got some orange peel. now, It seems like for every coat of BS, its like 2 coats of rusty\trem. So far Ive wet sanded with 600 and 800. The final third coat has not been wet sanded. I know to wet sand with 1000g now, but if I wet sand it using 1000g it will become dull. im guessing this is where the polishing comes in. but what im trying to ask is, when you polish a surface, will it become dull again when the wax eventually wears off?




i'm not marq but.....you should go to a higher grit sand paper before polishing jsut to make polishing easier.....1200, or 1500, or even 2000. the higher(or lower depending on how you look at it) grit you go the dullness will get less and less. polishing should make it shine....the wax is jsut a protectant and the paint should shine before the wax is even applied. if you don't keep it waxed and the paint starts to oxydize(sp) or get dull you can polish that out and re-wax.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38227
05/01/08 10:17 PM
05/01/08 10:17 PM
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Quote:

Marq, Ive laid down 3 coats of brightside on my trunk (see last picture I posted) it really reflective but its also got some orange peel. now, It seems like for every coat of BS, its like 2 coats of rusty\trem. So far Ive wet sanded with 600 and 800. The final third coat has not been wet sanded. I know to wet sand with 1000g now, but if I wet sand it using 1000g it will become dull. im guessing this is where the polishing comes in. but what im trying to ask is, when you polish a surface, will it become dull again when the wax eventually wears off?




Basically the previous writer got it right. Between every second coat you should use a lower grit wet sanding to knock back any orange peel that may happen. Otherwise, if you have successfully laid down two coats and it is looking pretty decent, you can just lightly skim or wetsand the paint in preparation for the next addition of two more coats.

When you reach the point where you have gotten enough coats on to give 100% color coverage and it looks fairly decent, you then move to your wetsanding to prepare the surface for maximum shine.

You will note at this point... the earlier wetsandings were more structural - in that they were knocking back any orange peel OR simply scuffing up the previous dried coatings to prepare them to receive the next coats of paint.

The final wetsanding should be thought of more like a polishing stage. Yes, you are going to lose the paints natural shinier outer layer - but that is all part of the plan. You start working your way up gradually through higher density grits until you make it to 1500 or even 2000.

What happens during this polishing type wet sanding is that you are smoothing the outer surface shinier and shinier.

Think of it this way. Have you ever seen those souvenier gem stones or rocks that they sell on keytags or for jewelerly or for rock collectors. The rocks are sooooooooooo smooth and shiny that they look like they have been dipped in liquid plastic.

What has in fact happened is that the rock guy has put those rocks into something that looks like a cement mixer or a laundry dryer with sand. They then set it on tumble mode and let it turn and turn adinfinitum. What happens is that the formerly rough and craggy stones rub against the sand and against the other rocks and slowly their craggy features disappear. Then as time goes on it simply smooths itself further and further until it reaches a point where that formerly rough rock has taken on a super smooth look and its surface is soooo smooth that it looks like it is glass or plastic coated.

Another quicky example to get this point across... are the pebbles you see along a beach that are all round and smooth. Over the years, the water and the movement in the sand has smoothened them out.

Ok... now look at the paint job. You begin with an 800, move to a 1000, move to a 1200, then on to a 1600 and even 2000 grit. At each of these polishing stages you are making that paint job shinier and shinier because each higher grit is making the 'scratches' on the paint surface smaller and smaller and smaller. THE LESS SCRATCH or the smaller the scratch the shinier the paint.

So yes... the paint will be dull at some point during your polishing wetsanding stage. BUT as you progress to the higher grits of sand paper things will reverse where it begins getting naturally shinier and glossier.

BUT we don't stop there... that is why we talk about the various rubbing compounds or polishing paste that we use on the paint once we are satisfied that we have done about all we can at the 1500 or 2000 grit stage. BECAUSE those polishing compounds are actually taking things to the 2500 or even 3000 grit level.

So in theory ( and in practice ) that surface should reach a mirror smooth finish. As noted, the smoother the outer skin of the paint, the more depth and gloss the paint will appear to the eye.

NOW when we finally get to the waxing stage, although it is also trying to add more gloss and depth to the paint, its main benefit at this point is to seal the outer skin of paint from oxygen and moisture.

In theory you don't have to do the waxing stage because if you did the polishing stages correctly and patiently, you should have a 'new car' level of shine to the paint. BUT as I said the main benefit of the addition of wax at the end of it is all to seal your work and to give it that final ooooomph of shine, reflection and depth to the paint.

NOW... yes... the odds are that in one year, or maybe even in 6 months, you may have to re-wax your car. If you invested in a decent orbital polisher like the Porter & Cable, that wax job will be a 20 minute snack that you can blow through easily. So future re-waxings are not something to worry about. The quality of the wax you use and your driving and enviromental setting will dictate how often you need to re-wax.

If you take the car through a brush style car wash... the lifespan of the wax coating will be shortened. If you go to a touchless car wash, the wax will last longer. If you bucket wash your car, the soap or cleanser you put in the bucket to make the lather will either help or shorten the life of the wax. I can't really speak of how some of those sprayers with wax and cleaner in it ( like the Mr Clean system ) would help or hinder the wax coating. So many variables eh...

But the whole point of this essay was to best explain how each of the wet sanding stages build upon each other to achieve as smooth as possible an outer finish in the end.

Oh... and just to give you some kind of measure to compare things with..

a ) most new car paint jobs are probably equal to about a 1200 grit sanding and wax.

b ) a clear coat finished paint job is on about par with a wetsanded car that has gone to 2000 grit and then been hit with rubbing compound up to about 3000 with a high quality wax.

The main advantage obviously of a genuine clear coating is that it is probably 5 to 10 times thicker then a wax layer. Hence it is capable of giving off a visually deeper depth of color and shine because the light ( sunlight ) is able to have more depth in which to refract.

So although a clear coat can probably kick our butts for sheer depth and accordingly gloss ( as well as durability ), the wax on our 2000 to 3000 grit wet sanded vehicle should be giving off visually just as much bling...

But I would be cautious about jumping over to some of the acrylic type car polishes in an attempt to boost your bling in the hope that an acrylic polish might rival a clear coat job or one of our wetsanded wax jobs. The acrylics normally only look good for the first ten days and then shortly thereafter start going downhill. Just take a look at any acrylic picnic glasses that you might have lying around and you will see how easily acrylic scratches ( and as such loses its over all shine ).
.

Last edited by Marq; 05/01/08 10:34 PM.
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: Marq] #38228
05/05/08 08:49 AM
05/05/08 08:49 AM

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Hey Everyone, Been reading this thread (from the start on thread 1) just cant stop reading, and just wanted to post my bit of info...
First off i own a 78 chevy nova, its blue, almost ford blue so i am gonna paint it gloss black, theres a few dings and abit of rust behid driver door that i need to take care of first... but have began to paint the trunk as my test peice, this is my daily driver so i couldnt just paint the whole car, so im doing the trunk, then the hood, then roof, doors, quarters, etc... i have currently put on 4 coats and will finish the trunk and polish it this weekend, the 4th coat looks just stunning!

i put on 1 coat and when it dries i wetsand with whichever grade of grit im using on that coat and then paint the next coat... so im sanding after every coat to make sure i got bubble/line free surface...

I find it easier to paint when its 40 degrees out, it doesnt drie to fast and gives you more time to correct any errors... as i painted when it was 80 degrees (i live in illinois one day it was 40 the next 80, the next 50... its insane here) and the paint dried WAYYYYYY to fast!!!! then again it was sorta windy out and i was painting outside instead of in garage as i wanted to see how it went...

but anyways i dont have any pictures just yet, i work 12 hour shifts 3 days on 3 days off, so on my 3 days off as soon as i get off i wetsand, paint... next morning wetsand paint, that night wetsand paint, so i can get each section completely done in my 3 days, im trying ot take my time and do it right!

but this paint and method is amazing, i was at autozone the other day and had a buddy there testing my alternator (been running into some electrical issues ) but i told him to take a look at my trunk, and he said it looked pretty good... i told him i rollered it on (remember just 4 coats, no finish and polish yet) and his face just droped... he couldnt believe it!

with that i want to thank everyone for keeping everyone updated with how this is done, and offering all the information you can give about your projects...

and i know exit was having prblems with drying time, im not sure if he ever got it figured out yet as i havent read that far, but i remember he may of thought it was the mineral spirits, but im using the oderless mineral spirits (which its not oderless it has such a strong smell almost to knock you on your a** with a big sniff) but the dry times are fine... and might i add a warning when your painting to keep your face away from the paint surface, i get 6 inches away from the surface at a 50 degree angle or so to check the lines and bubbles i may have missed, as im painting, and i have to use a paint mask cause the mineral spirits does have a strong smell... oderless, right...

Good luck everyone and ill continue to keep my project updated and have pictures hopefully this weekend

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38229
05/05/08 02:17 PM
05/05/08 02:17 PM

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I have been reading this thread over the past 2 weeks. I began on the first thread of 2006, and have decided to take this route myself. I have built this truck for GO, not for SHOW! It gets used off-road a lot, so finding a route that was durable was key to me. Not to mention something I could do in the garage without having to create a paint booth!

As I only own a Mopar when I am sleeping (dreaming), my current ride, a 1985 Toyota 4 Runner got a Ace Hardware's Brand 'Yellow' Rust Stop. Here in Maricopa County we can't buy gallons of Enamel Oil Based paint. I picked up 4 Quarts of paint and 3 Quarts of Rustoleum White Primer. I put down two coats of Rustoleum White Primer first and then wetsanded with 400/800. Here is my results after 2 coats of primer and one coat of paint. Remember, this is just the first coat of paint w/o being wetsanded. I am not expecting it to be glass the first time. Thus far, I am very pleased with the results I have gotten. As others have stated, it's not just in the paint, it's the prep work that makes the finished product! Man, are my arms sore though!! LOL

Please, provide some feedback as you guys are the GOD'S when it comes to this! Thanks 69Charger for beginning this thread! And big thanks to MARQ for posting up so many tips and suggestions!

Hope everyone enjoys the pictures:

Prepped:



Primered:



First Coat Yellow:




The weather has been perfect here in Arizona for this! It's averaged about 92 degrees and 10-18% humidity. I hope to get 6 more coats total. One more coat, then wet sand w/ 400. 2 coats and wet sand w/800. Two more and then wetsand with 1200 or 1500! I am glad I decided to go the white primer route, it really helps the first coat stand out!!

I will keep you posted on the progress for those who like what they see!

John

Last edited by LUV24BY; 05/05/08 03:09 PM.
RE: On e question though.... #38230
05/05/08 04:43 PM
05/05/08 04:43 PM

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Do you guys (Marq, 69Charger, others?) think I should lay down the second coat THEN wet sand or would it be too meticulous to wet sand with 600 and then apply the second coat?

I am just curious if at this point in the process if the orange peel I have is minimal or excessive. Being unfamiliar in this area, just want to make sure I am on the right track. When I go to apply a second coat, I don't want to create a mess by adding MORE orange peel. Attached is a full size image so you can get a good clear shot of the paint.

Please chime in with opinions and comments.....

I am very interested to other people's thoughts!

Thanks!

John

4406459-closeup.JPG (186 downloads)
Last edited by LUV24BY; 05/05/08 05:54 PM.
Re: RE: On e question though.... #38231
05/05/08 06:25 PM
05/05/08 06:25 PM

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LUV24BY, how thin is your paint? I might be wrong but you shouldn't have any orange peal if your paint is thin enough. Your project is looking great.

Re: RE: On e question though.... #38232
05/05/08 06:48 PM
05/05/08 06:48 PM

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Thanks Todd! I mixed the paint/mineral spirits about 4 to 1 ratio. Because I see so many doing paint w/o primer, I am a bit hesitant on where the quality of my attempts are. I don't see a great amount of orange peel, however I am looking with untrained eyes. There was a spot on the hood that I had to wetsand the primer down, exposing to the original blue color. Then I painted with the yellow. I see the blue through the first coat of yellow, and it looks very transparent. I just wanted to get the input of others before I get too far and end up doing it all wrong. Guess you can say I am being overly cautious! LOL

Thanks for the compliment too on the project!

John

Re: RE: On e question though.... #38233
05/05/08 10:00 PM
05/05/08 10:00 PM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
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Marq  Offline
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
The one thing that keeps drawing me back to this site each day is the hope of seeing yet another project underway or nearing completion ( or even completed ). I get a kick out of seeing how some of the projects have turned out.

I think the move to the white primer to begin was a big time saver for you - and with the yellow on it, it should make that yellow really pop.

Now... my first instict would be to knock back the orange peel at this stage - before adding another layer of paint on to it.

In other areas you can just do a very light web sanding to skim the surface. And where the orange peel is more pronounced, you can level it out now.

Since you are early in the paint process, it is better to defeat the orange peel and get things fully smoothed out. By the time you add your 2nd and 3rd coat you will have enough color coverage that you won't know where the original areas were that needed that extra bit of wet sanding.

I am surprised by how strong the yellow color took over the white primer. If you had told me it was a 4th coat I would probably have believed you.

Now... what I would be tempted to do is allow more drying time before adding another coat of paint. For example, if you go ahead and do the above referenced wet sanding to knock back the orange peel, let it sit for a few days. This is just to ensure that any paint that has been exposed after skimming off the top skin layer will fully cure. Those hot Arizona days will probably help quite a bit.

And as noted, thin back the paint just a little more - OR - stick with your current paint to mineral spirit ratio AND then add about 5% more of that Penetrol product.

I would like the coats going on to be a little thinner. In the back of my mind, I would have imagined the first coat on the white primer looking more like it had been 'just yellowed' by a giant dog peeing on it. Sort of a situation where you can see it is yellow but it is fairly faint. After all, the best results take a number of coats before you can get 100% color coverage. So that first coat on bright white should have appeared like it only was giving 25% of the color coverage that it will ultimately end up with.

BUT you are in a good position with what I can see so far and so nothing has been lost and you are a in a good position to built on what you have achieved so far.

That yellow really pops on that truck. It should look sharp when you are done.

Marq

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