Well, if you have followed my threads on this ordeal, I’m thinking I’ve got the car as best it can do. If anyone out there has a 440 b body and 340 ebody with factory power discs brakes, I’d like to hear what you have to say comparing the two cars. Both are all factory with NOS master cylinders. I’ve rebuilt everything or changed it out on the Charger and changed to semi metallic pads. At least I can slide the front tires right now. The last thing I did was to rebuild the NOS master cly with new seals. Nothing seemed to be the magic fix and it still feels like it hits bottom on the stroke. Both cars only have 750psi at the calipers. It just really feels like it has a slight bit of air in the system and is a little mushy.

I don’t know what was in the other thread.

New hoses? Also brand new and not nos?

Gravity bleed to see if you see air coming in the jar? Really a one man bleeder would reveal it though.

What I recall from older Mopars with PB is that the pedal seemed "softer" than manual brakes, with more travel, almost to bottoming.
Last bit of travel was the braking action.
Those were stock cars, not big-cammed, low-vacuum deals.
If you can lock up the ft tires, that's about nominal.

My racer buddy somehow gets the firmest, best-feeling brakes of anyone I've met - he bleeds the heck out of them, past where I don't see bubbles.
Always goes RR, LR, RF & LF.

Done all that. New hoses not NOS. Bled it so much I own stock in dot 5 brake fluid. I’ve thought about a pressure bleeder but all I’ve done is have a friend pump and hold method. It has never failed. My AAR does not bottom out. It stops like you hit a wall. Booster works fine three different MC. Rebuilt combo and metering valve, etc., etc.

Dot 5 can be a bit tricky in that it Aerates if moved to quickly when bleeding. if using the pump and hold method, Pump slowly or just depress the pedal somewhat slowly.
While holding the pedal down crack the bleeder slowly until the fluid starts coming out (slowly) Close the bleeder before the fluid stops moving. Repeat.

Even when using a pressure bleeder one has to bleed slowly.

You can also try gravity bleeding.

I wehn not using a pressure bleeder, I have occasionally needed re-bench bleed the master. reinstall on car. Have helper depress pedal while cracking open both front and rear lines going into the porp valve. Close before fluid stops. Repeat severa times. This prevents air in the front line from beiing sucked back into the master while bleeding at the rears. With DOT 5 SLOW is required

Pour some dot 5 in a small air brush jar, cap it and shake it