Im going to run a petronix ignition, and run a 1 wire power master 95 amp alternator in my 69 Bee, wanting to retain the OE look with the factory points VR, and not have the wiring all chopped up, What are you guys doing for reliability, and a OE look on cars that get driven?

Am I going in the wrong direction with the Petronix have had great look in the past, and like the simplicity

Kasey

Not running Pertronix.

Seems to be a number of issues with their stuff, primarily since they got bought out. So if someone pipes up and says it runs great ask them how old it is.

Not sure why you think you need a 95A alternator, but I also do not run one wires. There was a very recent thread here on moparts about a member having issues with inadequate low rpm output. They do make electronic versions of that mechanical VR that work well.

I thought Ive read about the VR on here but couldnt find anything.

Im not 100% married to these ideas, I just plan on driving this car out to Yellowstone, and do some family vacations after I get some preliminary miles on it.

I have a nice rebuilt converted points distributor and Ive already set the petronix module in it. I can always change that.

Primary reason is I know my 3 girls are all going to need things charged and i plan on putting in a nice retro fitted sterio, so with the extra charging docks, and the sterio I just figured it cant hurt.

It's a standard parts store item. If you look at the firewall side of the VR and there are no wire wound resistors there it's the electronic version. Another clue is that if the can height is much less than your original one, it's the electronic VR version, though some do come with the normal height can so no guarantees.

Electronic version



Mechanical version

IMO, nothing wrong with the factory electronic system with a good high output coil. Wiring can be easily integrated with existing harness and not look hacked in. Chrome box is reliable and good to high rpm, starts up and revs great, works as good as nearly any aftermarket set up.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/325828083963?itmmeta=01J38CK0SP48XDXGPE6X0V019D&hash=item4bdcde00fb:g:8Z4AAOSw9CNe1-RK

Im looking at this kit, Looks to be pretty nice stuff with exception of the aluminum cap, easy fix, Curious if anyone has used "Ricks-Mopars" stuff?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/325828083963? Leave everything after the ? off.

thanks

Seem to be the rule rather than the exception> Going through a mess right now with a 3 point wood chipper. STELLAR REPUTATION, but the company was bought 4 months back along with 3 others. They're still acting as a single company but under the umbrella of a NEW company. No one answers the phones at any of the 5 companies. It's leave A Voice message or fill out a form. You MIGHT get a response in 2-4 business days or not at all.
I have raised enough hell that they have agreed to take the unit back in writing and pay shipping. So we'll see how this plays out. My CC company is reay to do a charge back if needed
Sad part is I loved the unit, it just had TOO many issues. I even opted to try another NEW unit. NOPE, they want it back and refund.

Another well known American company will be biting the dust soon. Gojoe

You don't need to have the ? mark either. Works fine without it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/325828083963

Rick Ehrenburg is a good guy, he used to write tech articles for the now defunct Mopar Action magazine.
a stand up, trusted, and well respected fellow in the Mopar community.

You could mount an MSD 5 series under the dash and use a standard points distributor to trigger the unit. That way if the electronics ever fail just go back to the points.
And on the alternator a 60 amp unit will be more than adequate for what you need. Think about a modern Toyota with a 60 amp Denso unit runs over 40 ecu controlled devices like audio, air cond, fuel pump, fans, rear defogger, lighting, GPS, wipers, etc... you get the picture right? I run a 60 Denso alternator on my car and it works flawlessly.

Gus

I thought the 1 wire alternator has the regulator inside of it and eliminates the outside regulator.

Mopar electronic ignition worked very well for me for a lot of years and a lot of miles.
When I went to electronic fuel injection, the Mopar system there works very well too.

From what I see on youtube is that a lot of Pertronix problems results from not following the instructions, completely. Why do you need a 95 amp alt? I have a 61 Valiant with the original points reg and it works very well. There are adjustments inside of the reg that have to be looked at every now and then. One thing if you use a pertronix coil, then it has to be mounted a certain way, just like the factory ones did.

Just a comment on new, “old look” distributors…take a good look at it before installing. Rick’s, Proform (Mopar), etc. I have seen two recently that weren’t properly assembled. One was missing the pin holding the reluctor in position, the other had a problem that I never did figure out (on my Sun distributor machine it would show increased resistance on the shaft to the point of spinning the distributor in the clamps).

I have had good luck with the rebuilt, truly original style, units from Napa and Rock auto. Better weights, center strap, etc.

You can also add an FBO plate which allows you to limit internal advance to match the timing you want to run at for initial while still having full mechanical at 32-36 depending on your preference.

I have had very good luck with the blue Rev 7500 ECU’s Rick and Jegs sells. BUT, you must run a coil to match the coil spec’d in their instructions.

On my brother's 70 383 Challenger we went with Pertronix and followed Dayclona's instructions in this post -

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/616117/pertronix-good-or-bad.html

He got a rebuilt distributor from the local auto parts store, I think it even had the right part # tag on it. Went with the Pertronix stage 2 and their Flame Thrower coil. Bypassed the ballast resistor and kept it for stock appearance. It's been a few years now and it's been great, car fires right up all the time. Only problem he's had so far was a voltage regulator that went bad, but I think it was just a dud Mopar Performance older green letter style resto regulator. He replaced it with a generic parts store unit and it's been fine since.

Planning on the same thing for my car except I had Joe White rebuild the original distributor and he added the Pertronix while he was at it. For longer / remote road trips I'd probably want to have spare parts on hand regardless of what system is used, easy enough to change out in a pinch.

95 amps seems like a lot, I would perhaps instead look for ways to reduce electrical load, maybe using LEDs wherever possible. Also my brother has the #s correct 37 amp round back alternator, he did the ammeter bypass in the dash to help prevent problems with the bulkhead and dash wiring, and added one of Crackedback's relay kits for better (stock) headlamp output.

PROFORM's are very cheaply made, absolute JUNK IMO