I mounted the front wheels/tires on my Dart and after tightening the lug nuts I noticed there is a very slight wiggle if I grab the tire and try to rock it. New wheels torqued to spec. and all new wheel bearings. I tightened the spindle nut to spec. and then backed it off and hand tightened it as per the manual. Is a slight wiggle typical or is something wrong?

I would try snugging the spindle nut a little.

Take the dust cap off of the drum and rock the tire...you'll see if the wiggle is is at the spindle.

What type of wheels and lug nuts?

It's possible when using shank style lug nuts that are too long they bottom out before they contact the wheel like they are supposed to.

The wheels are Torq Thrusts with conical nuts. Forgot to mention, both sides wiggle the same way. You can just barely feel it. As suggested, I'll pull the dust cap off and try wiggling it again and I will also tighten the nut a little tighter although it will be with a socket as I have it as tight as I can get it by hand.

Same wheels as before ? Any interference/clearance issues @ hub or caliper or upper arm ?

Finger tight on bearings isn't enough, if I'm interpreting the post correctly - I usually use a big crescent wrench - but wheel/tire should spin pretty freely when nut is tightened.

Spindle nuts set up per the book on older vehicles may have some wiggle left over, but it's just barely perceptible, and should not make any noise. If you have a totally obvious clunk clunk thing going on then something is not right.

Last part of the 3rd paragraph.

https://brakeperformance.com/wheel-bearing-service1.php#

None of it is as before. I converted from the original sbp drum brakes to the later lbp disks. The wheels are new, never been on the car before. No interference/clearance issues whatsoever. I just did the finger tight thing because that was what the service manual said to do.

Maybe the a body is different, but for a b and e you are supposed to torque to an inch pounds spec and then loosen one key way. Or tighten by feel as many do. I find the spec way to leave a barely perceptible wiggle and I like it a bit tighter than that.

If both wheels have back and forth "slop", check the tie rod ends and steering box adjustment.

one thing that i aways did wrong was not spinning the rotor while you tighten, I was told this seats the needle bearings properly. everything else i did correct. i think i went to 70 inch pounds then back off one key on the nut cover for the cotterpin.