Re: New modified cut/welded tranny X-member brace
[Re: hemienvy]
#3197845
12/16/23 12:07 AM
12/16/23 12:07 AM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696 Bitopia
jcc
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
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If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696
Bitopia
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Understand the forces induced here if OEM TB's are still in play, plus the weight the trans mount carries. If it is a converted coil IFS, the forces are much reduced on this crossmember. Crash worthiness is another discussion, a cage with a dash bar kinda also needs a lower member to keep the cage in place in that area.
Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
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Re: New modified cut/welded tranny X-member brace
[Re: AndyF]
#3197961
12/16/23 01:41 PM
12/16/23 01:41 PM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,100 Rogue River, OR
Jeremiah
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,100
Rogue River, OR
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I cut the floor brace out as needed and on the passenger side splice in a 180°bend of 1-5/8 or 1-3/4 tubing to the oem bracing. On the driver side you can land the tubing perpendicular to the boxed section of the brace. I holesaw through the bottom for weld access.
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Re: New modified cut/welded tranny X-member brace
[Re: hemienvy]
#3198169
12/17/23 04:46 PM
12/17/23 04:46 PM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,554 Rittman Ohio
fourgearsavoy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,554
Rittman Ohio
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Thanks guys, I could probably practice my butchering techniques, but I could have sworn I saw somebody that made one. Can't remember what I put in the search engine. BigDad made a really nice crossmember for his silver 64 Plymouth with pics posted many years ago. Gus
64 Plymouth Savoy 493 Indy EZ's by Nick at Compu-Flow 5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box Dana 60
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Re: New modified cut/welded tranny X-member brace
[Re: topside]
#3198678
12/19/23 04:58 PM
12/19/23 04:58 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,284 West Coast, USA
jbc426
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,284
West Coast, USA
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I would think that someone could map out the floor contour. Then fab tooling (maybe using CAD or whatever) to make a shallower but thicker replacement piece. Or maybe make a 1/4" plate, formed to match the floor contour, for welding in. There would seem to be a market for such a thing. I used a 1/4" steel plate about 4 inches wide and just over 2 feet long welded through the floor pan to the top on the remaining cross member. I had to heat the steel band red hot to bend it and spent time getting it to match the original floor's contour. I also welded most of the original torsion cross member solidly to the floor pan when I installed the full US Cartool Chassis Stiffening kit. I cut the actual tunnel portion of the cross member down flush, but left the factory flanges and boxed the bottom of the trimmed crossover back in with like-sized steel. I did this fab work with the torsion bars out. In my case, this was done to fit an overdrive automatic. I may soon be doing further modification, as I'm putting in an even larger automatic to accommodate a more powerful engine. These are the only pictures that I currently have of the lower modified crossover. I was able to retain the factory cross member bolt locations.
Last edited by jbc426; 12/19/23 06:31 PM.
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's 1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
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