Never messed with N2O, but I'm curious about the budget kits rated up to 150 (75 / 100 / 125 / 150?). Interested in what people here can tell me, in case I decide to play around w/ it at some point. Thx

Edit: The old car, not the 1320

Nitrous Express makes nice stuff.

The Mainline kit is very versatile for a small kit and goes from 100 to 250. It has a billet plate.

We used it for a few years and finally upgraded.

A Leash Electronics single stage board makes wiring nitrous super simple and puts all the fuses and relays in one area. We hid it on the interior firewall.

Billet plates make the most sense- they're the most durable. The old school NOS style plates can fail where the tubes are epoxied in.

How automated do you want it to be? I have my kit set up with a NOS mini progressive controller and it interfaces with a MSD retard box. All I have to do is turn the master switch on and open the bottle, everything else is handled automatically, I wanted to make it idiot proof. For a super small shot you can get away with just a manual button on the shifter or something.

Edit: also- the cheaper kits also usually omit things like a purge valve or have lower end components. You can purge through the motor but you have to be careful with this method. Usually the more expensive kits are more complete and come with better solenoids, etc.

thought about it one time , only in a 3rd gear shot to gain more mph

It works better the earlier you hit it. It's really hard for spray to make much difference in 3rd gear.

When I first used it I was spraying it after the 60ft. and was amazed at how much the e.t. improved hitting it off the line.

For a beginner, the best thing would be to buy a billet plate from Induction Solutions.
It will come flowed and have all info, plus you will get probably the best support you could find, as well as they literally sell everything you will need.

After that i would recommend NX they also make some nice billet plates

Be careful what info you read on the internet as most can be misleading. Up to 175 hp i dont see how you could screw anything up, as long as you pulling timing LOL

A controller would be a great addition, as well as an ignition that will pull timing for you.

Good info, folks. Thx for the replies.

FWIW, this is me playing "What if..." wrt Capitol having their Friday night "King of The Hill" stuff in conjunction w/ their T&T events during the season. I see a wide variety of cars involved, so putting a small kit on my old car might help it be more in the mix before getting taken out by a Tesla Plaid or something else going that much faster than me

The basic NOS Power Shot and Super Power Shot kits are nice easy bolt on kits. I sprayed dozens of mine and my buddies cars over the years. I currently have Power Shot hidden under my air cleaner on my 440 New Yorker. A 2 stage 125/250 Shot plate kit on my Roached Runner and 2 foggers on my 528" Hemi in my Challenger. Never blown up an engine because of nitrous. Just don't get greedy with the tunes.

Also worth mentioning, nitrous is addictive. Dropping ET's is just a 7/16" wrench away. I'd suggest at least protecting for being able to spray 250-ish and buy decent parts. If it isn't for you, an Induction Solutions plate is super, super easy to resell.

And - Monte and Tony have preached this, timing is everything with nitrous. Lean at worst will melt the center out of a piston. Rich will hurt ring lands, and rich with too much timing is the worst combo of all. Keep the timing safe.

If you’re not hitting a 340 with a 200 shot why are we even talking??

I sprayed my Slant with a 150 shot off the horn button for a couple years.

One thing I was taught was to not snap the throttle shut at the stripe with a switch on the carb. The fuel side will continue to dribble a little fuel and get the top ring lands when it ignites. Been there, done that.

A few ideas for mounting solenoids, the cordless battery mount we built to keep the bottle warm, the easy to wire Leash board and the JAZ jr. Dragster supplemental fuel cell we mounted up front. The bottle heater setup uses a pressure switch that shuts off the battery when the bottle reaches a set pressure. The dock is a 3D printed piece from Amazon. The whole thing uses rubber isolator feet from an MSD box for mounting.

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Used a 100 - 250 plate kit on my old 318 in the mid 90's, it was a lot of fun and it would embarrass a lot of big blocks as it was running mid to high 12's. Pretty sure it was a "big shot" system made by the guys that used to sponsor the KOS races back then but my memory isn't that good. It was easy to fit, operated off a button on the wheel and I would just retard the timing 4 degrees. Ran mostly with the the 150 jets. It never went any quicker with the 200 jets. I also used to have a "It's a dull ride without Oxide" sticker on the back bumper
I'm considering a single fogger 500hp kit for the 655, I've still got a couple of NOS bottles and a Holley digital N2O controller with a little screen that can ramp in and or delay the application. However, I'm of the opinion that the 727 and Dana won't hold up to the potential 1500 - 1600hp so we'd have to change to a TH400 derived box and some type of 9" before actually using it, so that's more parts to accumulate and fit

In my opinion, one of Induction Solutions' kits is worth the money. It's already been flowed and tested. Their support after the sale is awesome too.
I'd also recommend a billet plate. I have one of the conventional crossbar plates (NOS Crosshair), but I bought it from Induction Solutions just before they came out w/ their Holey Moley billet plate...wish I'd waited just a little longer.
Buy a kit that will flow more than you anticipate spraying. For two reasons...if you decide to sell it later, a small kit can be harder to sell. The other reason is you will probably want to spray more later on if you get addicted to it like most do, lol.
Mine is flowed up to 485 hp. I'm only spraying 300 hp, but originally only "planned" to spray 200.

Leash electronics products are awesome if you want a controller or wiring board. If you want a progressive controller, a lot of companies will put you on a waiting list. Join one of the nitrous tech groups on facebook...there are always controllers for sale there that are new, but never got used.

If I was buying one now, I'd get the Induction Solutions Boogie Box. I currently run a Leash and it's great.

Wow, lots of good info added since the last time I checked, thanks

FWIW,
- the car's only legal to 10.0, and if the new NA combination runs as hoped, wouldn't take a whole lot of spray to get into the 9s
- I don't know if Capitol is considered an outlaw track right now, but I've seen some things there that wouldn't be allowed at other sanctioned tracks (guy running low 9s in his Tesla w/o wearing the required safety gear)
- engine's not built for spray, e.g, high ring land placement on pistons, so there are some "design limitations"
- gearing / converter / etc. probably wouln't run a full 1/4 if it picks up much RPM on the big end, so I figure it would just be for 1/8 stuff

Not the first time this idea has crossed my mind, just the latest

FWIW...150 hp of nitrous will make anything faster, but won't blow through the torque converter too bad. Just my experience. 20 years ago, my cuda ran 11.40s on motor and a 150 shot got it to 10.60s letting off at 1000 feet b/c it was out of gear. I was all grins after that first 60 feet!
It went 7.20s in the 1/8 on motor...pretty sure it went 6.50s on the 150 shot.

You don't have to get crazy w/ ignition systems to pull timing either. I'm not sure what you have, but I just run an old analog MSD 6AL with a little added on MSD 8987 Start/Step box to pull timing out.

Have your same combo, a 6AL and the 8987 box, it works great and have been super happy with it. I was worried I was going to have to upgrade when I build my stroker but if it's good for you on a 575 with 300+ of nitrous I'll definitely be fine!

Crane HI-6, plus I have a couple of things laying around that could come in handy
- Crane TRC --> remote timing dial-back device that Ray Meyers (sixpackgut) gave me years ago
- older MSD programmable timing computer that can be hooked to the Crane HI-6 as an add-on

Mine was an 11.20-11.30 car n/a

The following shots yielded these results:

150 was a 10.69
200 was a 10.33
250 was a 10.01
It currently has the 300 jets in it ready to rock!

Wow

GY3 - What are the respective 60 / 660 ET & MPH for those different 1/4 passes?

Had to watch this "for informational purposes only", naturally --> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rc5Og8J_4U

I wouldn't worry about running too fast at Capitol....put a fogger on it.

My entire build and documentation thread is here along with slips and they're all there if you want to sift through it. I'm not that good at documenting runs and weather like bracket racers are because I'm just fooling around on Friday/Saturday nights.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/428197/13/my-63-dodge-330-project.html

Off the top of my head, the 250 shot 10.01 was a 1.36 60 ft. with a 6.33 1/8th mile time. The 200 shot it ran 6.49 with a 1.37 60 ft. ( recall the last one distinctly because it had NEVER ran a 6.50 and I entered a 6.50 index that night. It ran a 6.52 on a test pass and first elimination round it ran a 6.49 and broke out by a hundreth!

From a drag racing perspective, I guess the only downside to Nitrous is if you have a combo with a really loose converter and you're gearing is already "optimized" (just past your power peak at the stripe), you might either have to tighten it up and/or take gear out of it to take full advantage of it.

Misc thoughts
- I like the idea of a controller to feed it in more gradually
- still feels like something that I could use only in the 1/8 for WOT runs
- suppose the option is there for going from 275/60 to 295/65 to lower the RPM on the big end
- not only are the ring lands "up there" at .175" down from the piston deck, but the gaps aren't intended for big spray either since they're .020/.024 IIRC

I have this controller:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nos-25974nos

It's reasonably priced as far as electronics go, and it's working flawlessly. I used it at Roadkill Nights to ramp in the nitrous over ~1 second. It can control 2 solenoids independently or in unison depending on how you set it up, can use any type of WOT switch as an input, will output a signal to a retard box, and will read RPM from your tach signal so you can have an RPM window on nitrous activation- you don't want to spray it at too low of an RPM, or on the rev limiter. You can also shut the solenoids off after a certain amount of time with the ramps, so if you only wanted to spray to the 8th and shut it off you could do it without having to do anything in the middle of the run, the controller would handle it for you.

I added a transducer for bottle pressure later- you don't need the Holley specific one, it just has to have the correct range.

As GY3 mentioned though- you see the most benefit from spraying as much as you can immediately if the track can take it. My car picks up 1.1-1.2 seconds on a 73 jet (around a 180 shot).

Personally, I wouldn't worry about your current ring gaps for just a 150 shot. I also wouldn't worry about a controller for just a 150 shot. At most, use a digiset timer to delay activation.

https://www.robietherobot.com/nitrousjetcalculator.htm

Here is a site that has a lot of good information including the temp to bottle pressure ratio. I used to use a small gauge on the bottle (that was junk) and plan on putting a larger gauge and shutoff next to the drivers seat eventually, (getting the pressure off the solenoids as soon as possible prolongs solenoid life) but for now I shoot the bottle with a Fluke IR temp gun and that tells me the temp and pressure the bottle is at. I shoot for 91* typically. I do have the pressure switch that shuts off the heater but still like to monitor temp/pressure.

At the very bottom of the page it has a jet chart that tells you what power to expect (if the plate isn't a restriction) out of a certain size jet. It seems to be pretty accurate in my experience.

A BB swallows a 150 shot like it's a puff of cold air!

More misc thoughts...

Current converter may be a little tight for NA, but won't know for sure until track results

A "true" 150 shot would push things to 830-850 HP based on last engine dyno tests; good thing the 8.75 has been replaced by the Strange S-60

This could be a lot of fun... or a really bad idea

Only unless you get stupid it with it - I ran a lot of nitrous back in the late 80's and early 90's - three stages with two fogger systems and 1 plate system under the carbs - yeah I got stupid with it more than once and paid for it - If you use the jet-able plate system start small work your way up - I always suggest you have a separate fuel pump for the nitrous and use a good controller! it can get real addicting with horsepower in a bottle!

I have sprayed 250 shots on numerous bone stock vehicles over the years with just backing off timing and good fuel. Never blown up an engine to this day. Even on nitrous.

Just because it sounds like a bad idea doesn't mean it won't be a good time.