I get it with the rear distributor small blocks. But on a Hemi or B/RB with the front distributor, does the crank trigger offer any proven advantage?

Has anybody used the ATI damper with the magnets in the outer ring to eliminate the extra magnet ring bolted on the front and save $$?

Thanks, Joel

Yes, a crank trigger will provide more stable timing than a distributor. You can see the difference with a timing light.

FHO uses ATI dampers with the four magnets built in. I sell them a trigger bracket for that application. I used to sell the same bracket to Best Machine before they closed up. I've never seen a TCI damper.

I run a crank trigger with an ATI damper on one of my engines. Yes, it does help as mentioned, seen with a timing light.

Oops, I meant ATI super damper, not TCI. TCI is the rattler.

Good info, thanks!

The ATI with the magnets is soooo sexy. It's expensive, but that other stuff is so 1980's.

Rock steady. Put a crank trigger on, you will never go back.

I always used a wheel with the magnets in it. No reason not to. Have spare engines, you can just swap the stuff as needed.

Talk to Tim at FHO is you're going to go that way. He should have the correct ATI damper in stock as well as the TDC pointer and trigger pickup assembly. I think I'm the only person that makes those parts although you could also fabricate your own setup. It isn't rocket science, but you do need the pickup in the correct location for the timing to be correct and it does need to be adjustable since moving the trigger is how you change the timing. Rotating the distributor only changes the rotor phasing when you use a crank trigger.

https://arengineering.com/home-page/crank-trigger

Andy, what is the part number for that bracket? Does it come with the pick up?

Depends on what is going on in terms of pulley spacing or what else is being driven off the front. There are a lot of reasons to get rid of the magnet wheel such as dry sump engines or engines that don't have much space for pullies.

There are different brackets for different setups and different pickups. I don't sell pickups, you'll have to get them from MSD or Holley depending on which ignition system you are using.

BMP aluminum hemi. Thanks

The block doesn't matter, the bracket used depends on the timing cover. Billet cover, Jesel cover, etc.

In an NA application, I can't imagine it would make any difference on the time slip. Unless you're running nitrous on the ragged edge, what's the justification for it? Rock steady timing is neat, but if your timing jumps around that much you need a new chain.

I assume the timing locked out with a crank trigger. How does that work out in a street car?

Andy, if the magnets are in the damper, do you make the bracket thinner to compensate?

Works great. Idles at 800 in gear at a light with the biggest cam.. Throttle response is sharp. Runs great. Might have to use a start retard. Might.

Chain, gear slop, driveshaft moving around, oil pump affecting the whole mess. Plus cam twist if it's a small block. If you're okay with it moving around a couple degrees, then it doesn't matter.

Crank trigger, what you see with a timing light is like a snapshot. Zero movement.

With the ignition stuff available now, you can set the base timing ahead of where you want it and dial in a retard curve. Some guys I know are using various amounts of retard at different places on the track. No reason it couldn't be done on the street. Even dialing in the timing precisely on each cylinder, if you are collecting data.

I sell a different bracket for that application. Part number is on the website or contact Tim at FHO.

Ok, i get it now. Using the Milodon gear drive combo.

You'll probably need something custom to fit a gear drive. Could start with one of my parts and have it modified by a machine shop to fit the gear drive.

Thanks.