Would appreciate if anyone with pics of the mods could post them. Mainly concerned with the inner fender pass side mod. Still not certain on what oil pan and headers to use on this. Will be mostly street driver.

None, they just fit right in there Dave.....lol.

Do you have an aftermarket front end kit on yours? That is were I would start...Torsion bar delete is kinda the best mod...

Not interested in ditching the torsion bars on a street car. I might do a K member thou. I understand the pass side valve cover will not come off if its an aftermarket cover. I also understand the master cylinder needs to be moved as well if ya want to get the cover off. As far as the pass side inner fender mod, i was told it needs a slight notch cut in it. Would really like to see a pic of that mod. Thanks

I just cut into the pass side inner fender and installed a piece of angle iron. It looked good and allowed the removal of the VC. Wasn't that much work for the body shop.

And I used stainless flex lines from the master so that it was easier to lay aside.



And I kept the torsion bars, too. Had to have several tubes custom made in the headers to fit.

Thank you. Just what im looking for. Another gentleman told me it doesnt even need much clearancing, just a slit cut, hammer in and dress it up to look clean. Do you have another pic of the pass side with engine in? Nice work by the way.

I think this is what you need

Headers are available , the factory I think just used the 66-69 pan as it has the idler arm notch?

If you are going to change the K you should should be able to get the 70 up 6pk/hemi pan in with any mods , but you'll probably want some sort of skid plate ?

And a couple of cases of beer and a box of Band-Aids!

As you know there is an offset mount for the brake master cylinder that has been selling for the last 50 years as used on the 68 cars. My buddy recently did a Dart and found a new mount that takes it further over. You will want that. MR2 Performance 765-483-9311. He can take the valve cover off without touching the brake lines. Hemi's in A bodies are tight. I'm sure the aftermarket K-members would make it easier but they b pricy.

The headers have to be perfect to wrap around that steering box. He used the Hooker Super Comps but still there was a hammer involved. I think he has another used set of those that he would sell. Another friend put a 400 in a 68 Barracuda recently. We used the 7 qt pan from 440 Source 121-1030. It fit tight, but it fit. (We probably should have trimmed on that lip of the lower K-member before we tried to put it in.) Here's a pix of that offset brake bracket.

will be using a deep pan. probably a 7 or 8qt.

I promised myself, I would never do another Hemi in an A-body with a stock k-member and torsion bars....I lost two thumb nails the last time just trying to change the starter...Ain't doing that again....

I used a set of Elshant ears to put the last hemi we raced in a 1970 Duster with a big aftermarket oil pan with an external Milidon oiling system, we welded some 2.0 inch x 1/8 inch angle iron onto the top of the front sub frames where we wanted them and then drill two 3/8 inch holes in them and the elephant ears to located the motor were we wanted to be left to right and front to rear with a set of Hooker race headers for that application, piece of cake

I was considering doing a Hemi A-body years ago. I talked to some of the AH guys at Indy with original cars about the fenderwell modification. Most of them told me that they used a sledge hammer when they were built, and some got bondo to pretty them up and some didn't.

Yes, i installed a 400/511 in this A body. Trimmer the lip off the original K. Tight fit for sure and the Hemi will be even tighter.

Yes, will be reusing my engine plate with the Hemi install. Not sure on the external oiling after reading the last troubled post on that subject. Gonna give Tim Banning a call about the oiling system for other options if they exist.

I looked for more pics of that area and haven't come up with any. Thank you for the complement, but it was the body shop that did the work. I just trial fitted the angle iron and cut enough to get the right clearance. It wasn't that much time for them to slick it up.

What master cylinder are you contemplating? I just used the late model O.E. Mopar one with the 4 bolt to 2 bolt adapter. Two nuts on the master along with the flex lines and the master was off and completely out of the way in like 2 minutes. Makes getting to the rear rockers on that side easier, too. Working around any master cylinder to adjust those rear rockers can require some gymnastics. And it is all cheap to boot.

Currently using the wilwood. thanks