My last 360 build was using a 238/244 @0.050" on 108 LSA hydraulic flat tappet cam...so yup, low idle vacum (7" at 850-900 RPM) on a good day lol.

Needless to say, working the airbleeds and adjusting for the low vacum is what made the whole difference between "it runs but I never know if it's loading up on fuel or starving?" to "damn, this thing is spot on everywhere!".

So to the original OP: you can post the model number of what you have, that would let us assess what configuration that is (i.e. how many of the additional emissions stuff you've got on there, fuel provisions - jetting, rods, etc.).

BTW: I'm running the aftermarket TQ, that being a 9800 carb, which is what has the electric choke and is the smaller 1-3/8" primaries carb. I wish Carter made these in the larger 1-1/2" config because the current build I am buttoning up is a 408" stroker W2 motor and that'll want more air for sure. I most likely will toss the SuperQuad on there just to try it out.

brad vansant or gtx john on class racer.com

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I'm curious why the guys that like Thermoquads don't migrate to the Holly Street Demon? A new design a new carburetor with all parts available. The Thermoquad is awesome and legendary but the parts and the people who can remanufacture them to like new are hard to find.

Class cars are stuck with them.

I know a few fast Ferds with TQs on them. Yes, OEM.

Gotcha. I remember a black and white photo of a camaro Drag car in the 70s with a tunnel ram and dual Thermoquads. Smoky Yunick?

For me, simple reason, the TQ wail. I've had other 4 bbls, but none had the wail of the TQ...

international also used these carbs on some of their engines.
back when i was working, i wrote a couple of programs to make jets and metering rods on a harding CNC lathe. at that time, those machines were run by mylar tape.
the metering rods required a secondary bending step, so they were made a little long, then trimmed to the correct length at the top after bending.
i have also collected many T-Quads [in all type of conditions] for parts, especially if they were cheap or free.
most of the bowls are good, despite the claim they warped or cracked. mostly the fuel wells on the bottom just needed resealing with a good quality fuel proof epoxy. just don't go overboard using the epoxy, else the wells will need trimming at the seam to fit the base.