I have an aluminum Bill Mitchell block. Casting is 2019+, 4.5" bore. Very interested in the video you're referencing. Thank you.

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Thats the ones I used back then, (their 2 1/8 race headers) Jack (CRS his last name now ) their race car fab guy back then, circa 1973, gave me them for free That surprised the heck out of me

The aftermarket guys would do things like that back then Cab, you know that! That was when Gary and his brother owned the company and long before they moved the production to Mexico and the company went from nice high-quality to where it is now with the Holley group.

Thanks for the tip on the drivers side header. Ordered my 2.25 to 3.5 TTI headers from Indy and hope to get them this week. Deanna is so helpful over there at Indy.

I am using the AR motor plate from Mancini. I dropped the hemi in and bolted the 727 up and installed the driveshaft for a test fit.The Miloden oil pump with single line was set up on the lower port on the pump and dropping down to the 8qt oil pan and was getting interference with the stock motormount perches in the kframe. So I pulled the engine and cut both motormount perches off the stock kframe. This should give me more room for the headers and the diaper.

8-second...whose diaper and trans blanket are you using?

I don't have a diaper. I use a CSR carbon fiber shield.

I got my 572 Indy Hemi in the EBODY yesterday. Stock kframe with motor mount perchs cut out as I have a motor plate...stock stearing with manual steering box...stock torsion bar suspension...drag car ONLY with inner fender wells removed.

- I am running a TF 727 with TCI Flex Plate Shield and a Summit Trans Blanket. I dropped the engine in with the engine crane and then bring the trany in to the block from underneight the car...car on jack stands about 18-inches off the floor. (just used a floor jack with a piece of plywood under the pan for the trany lift)
- I have the engine about 3-inches forward in the engine bay so I can get the trany bolts in cause the flex plate shield leaves NO room to catch those bolts (stock firewall and trans tunnel still in place...but cut that 3/4-inch body rim joint out for more tunnel room.)
- Now that the engine and trany is all bolted together...I can put the mini starter in, mind you that I have 2-feet of wire preconnected to the starter because it is so tight to get to the terminals.
- Now we connect the PPP shifter bracket to the transmission pan and shifter cable...with the shifter and trany in 2nd gear (important). Connect the transmission lines from the B&M cooler out front of the radiator.

Now the TTI 2.25 headers (214)...Note- my Indy Hemi Hipo head ports are 2 1/8 inch wide and the header flanges are 2-inches...buy TTI and Indy said this should be an issue. I would have liked the flanges to match the head ports...but there was no room to grind and match as this would have damaged the ceramic coating and flange to header welds. NOTE to TTI and INDY-increase the header flange size for the Hemi Hipo heads.
- With the engine and trany still floating...I lifted the engine as much as I could with the crane and wrestled the drivers side header in from below the car. It fit in!!! I caught all the bolts and it helped to have access with no inner fender wells.
- Pass side header went right in from below...but the header bolts were a [censored] to catch because the engine is closer to the stock shock tower on this side. But I got them in.

I will tell you TTI did an exellent job on these headers as they do fit the stock EBODY torsion bars and manual steering box. TIGHT but fits!!! The header to trans blanket clearance is all but nothing so I will make some aluminum shields to put in between or the blanket will melt.

OK...off to finish the rest!

Now that the Hemi is in and the headers on you now know what works and what dont. Would like to know if it would have been easier installing with the heads off? I need to install a 572 Hemi into an A body using TTI 2 1/8 headers. My thought was to install with 727 bolted on, but without the heads. Really not sure of the best way to do this, but any opinions from you would be appreciated. Thanks

Dave- My engine was all built and dyno tested by Indy...complete long block (callies iron siamese block). I would drop the engine in with the heads My EBODY was tight with a HEMI. I do not know muck about a-body as never had one. I did installed my 500inch wedge with the trany bolted on with a hoist that could pivit the angle of the assembly. This time i wanted to go engine in first and bring the trany in from under the car. With the front engine plate I was able to slide the engine forward on the frame rails in the engine bay enough to bring my 727 in from down under. Once engine and trany bolted together...I just slid the engine and trany back into correct position in the bay so the stock trany mount bolted into place.

TTI is really good at making headers for mopar. 8-second said he had to put his drivers side header into the bay and drop the hemi engine into it. TTI told me I could get the header in from below if I raised the engine enough and TTI was right. It was tight but the 2.25 header went in (with scuffs and scratches).

I spoke with Sam at TTI and he provided technical assistant on the phone. Call TTI and ask them about your application. They been doing it for years.

One thing about my 2.25 header in the EBODY with all else stock. It is tight with little to no clearance from torsion bars and the transmission. I use a blanket on my 727 trany and the blanket is against the headers so I made some aluminum shields to stuff between the headers and the blanket so the blanket won't melt away from the heat of the headers. The drivers side is tightest because the PPP shifter bracket takes some room. Wish someone would make a certified case...but not enough MOPAR drag racers. More Chevy and Ford. Just look at the Summit sales magazine...very little Mopar product.

Put the engine in, slip trans in from bottom. Starter goes on, then headers, then steering box, once bolted up you can put the pitman arm on and slip the torsion bars in. That’s using the tti a body headers. Depending on how you locate the engine, mine is in the spot the original 383 was at I needed to space the k frame down 1/2” for header clearance to the steering linkage. Thankful I have a lift.

Thanks for explaining. I will give TTI a call.

I see this wont be an easy task as it was for my 511 which went in with trans bolted up. Thanks guys

One thing I forgot to mention...the headers have to come out, or be really loose, for the transmission to come out of the car. I remove the passenger side header and then take the driver's side loose. The headers wrap around underneath the bellhousing enough that you can't drop the trans down w/ the headers in place.