Hemi Headers in an Ebody

I am getting ready to drop my Indy 572 Hemi with 426 hipo hemi heads in my 1970 Barracuda, 727 automatic. All stock front kframe, steering and torsion bar suspension. No inner fender wells with stock floor pan and tunnel.

I can get TTI headers from Indy. I have been told that the headers need to be in place in the engine bay and then lower the engine in as there is no way to get headers in after the engine is dropped in. I had to do the same with my 440. PIA

I also talked with a header fab shop and he was reluctant to even try to build headers with stock steering and torsion bars. When I told him I have no inner fender wells, he said maybe he would try. Told me to drop the engine and and bring it by and we would see.

Can you guys with the Ebody hemi cars send some tips my way on header installation...please?

WOW, what a way to post a question.

Anyway, I have always put my Hemis and trans in from the bottom as a complete unit. There is no room to do anything with headers otherwise. I don't know if it can even be done from the top because I have never even tried. It certainly seems like a much larger wrestling match dropping it in from the top.

Let us know how it goes.

My is Slightly different. I have a tubular K frame with coil overs. I welded up my 4 piece Hooker Super Comp headers as on piece and can install them both at once from underneath with the engine installed.

Are they really different from a B-body with the same OEM restrictions?

TTI usually has very comprehensive instructions that go with their headers.

I did not check but they may be available from their website.

I would try to get ahold the installation instructions.

I would, and have, buy a good set of multi piece race headers and install them in the car, piece of cake
You may, probably will have to, remove the drag ling under the oil pan and pitman and idler arm and lay it out of the way until your done with the headers

who makes those multi piece headers for Hemi and are they available for A body?

Who makes thos headers blue-stocker?

People have been putting headers on Hemi cars for the past 50 years so it can't be that difficult.

TTI's will go in from the bottom, but you will have to do a little jacking from one side and then the other. Follow the instructions.

One thing no one has asked the OP is whether he is planning on 2 1/8" or 2 1/4" tubes. On my 2 1/4" TTIs, the lower row of bolts are an absolute pain to get to. Now, with his fender wells removed, it might be easier on the OP's car. But still around the shock tower could be a problem.

I bought a pair of JR headers from the NHOA back in the 80's. The only thing that fit were the flanges bolting up to the heads.

These are an older nos Hooker 2-1/8 race set I bought 4-5 years ago for a b-body project car I sold before moving to Tennessee. Ceramic coated, adjustable but the struts and primary tubes for lengthening didn't come with this set. Can't say how old they are but I can say it was before Hooker turned into crap mfg...these are very nice headers.

OK...I will buy the 2 1/4 TTI headers from INDY and will let you all know how it goes.

Thanks for the feedback

Yes, Hooker makes those

I have the TTI 2.25" primary 4" collector headers on my '70 cuda. It has all stock front suspension and everything else.
The passenger side header will go in the car after the motor is in. If you unbolt it, it will just about fall out of the car. Bolts aren't that bad to do from underneath the car. Had to do a little massaging to the top outer primary tube to clear the torsion bar ahead of the collector.
The driver's side Needs to be in the car prior to the motor going in. Most of those bolts are easily done from up top.
I do have a motorplate instead of factory mounts.

I'm glad you brought this point up. I have a friend with an extra set of TTI 2.25" headers (#214s) for my 70 540" Hemi powered E body, but I'd like to run Hotchkis Torsion Bars and either a Firm-Feel or Borgeson steering box. I'm wondering if the 2.25's will work, or will I need to go with the TTI 2.125" versions... Anyone know or have experience with this? K Member is stock.

The TTI website is pretty good. Look on there for fitting issues.
www.ttiexhaust.com

BD I don't know which block you are using but if it's Callies or World I will have to direct you to a video.

Aren't those steering boxes smaller that the original power boxes? And the 'bars shouldn't matter. My block is a World iron and the 2 1/4 tubes are all over the stock power box. I slotted the box mounting holes so I could move the box over just a bit and dimpled the tube that was right up against the box. I also slid a piece of insolation between the tube and the box trying to reduce the heat in the box. Engine location is critical. My K is by Al Debevic.

I have an aluminum Bill Mitchell block. Casting is 2019+, 4.5" bore. Very interested in the video you're referencing. Thank you.

:scope
Thats the ones I used back then, (their 2 1/8 race headers) Jack (CRS his last name now ) their race car fab guy back then, circa 1973, gave me them for free That surprised the heck out of me

The aftermarket guys would do things like that back then Cab, you know that! That was when Gary and his brother owned the company and long before they moved the production to Mexico and the company went from nice high-quality to where it is now with the Holley group.

Thanks for the tip on the drivers side header. Ordered my 2.25 to 3.5 TTI headers from Indy and hope to get them this week. Deanna is so helpful over there at Indy.

I am using the AR motor plate from Mancini. I dropped the hemi in and bolted the 727 up and installed the driveshaft for a test fit.The Miloden oil pump with single line was set up on the lower port on the pump and dropping down to the 8qt oil pan and was getting interference with the stock motormount perches in the kframe. So I pulled the engine and cut both motormount perches off the stock kframe. This should give me more room for the headers and the diaper.

8-second...whose diaper and trans blanket are you using?

I don't have a diaper. I use a CSR carbon fiber shield.

I got my 572 Indy Hemi in the EBODY yesterday. Stock kframe with motor mount perchs cut out as I have a motor plate...stock stearing with manual steering box...stock torsion bar suspension...drag car ONLY with inner fender wells removed.

- I am running a TF 727 with TCI Flex Plate Shield and a Summit Trans Blanket. I dropped the engine in with the engine crane and then bring the trany in to the block from underneight the car...car on jack stands about 18-inches off the floor. (just used a floor jack with a piece of plywood under the pan for the trany lift)
- I have the engine about 3-inches forward in the engine bay so I can get the trany bolts in cause the flex plate shield leaves NO room to catch those bolts (stock firewall and trans tunnel still in place...but cut that 3/4-inch body rim joint out for more tunnel room.)
- Now that the engine and trany is all bolted together...I can put the mini starter in, mind you that I have 2-feet of wire preconnected to the starter because it is so tight to get to the terminals.
- Now we connect the PPP shifter bracket to the transmission pan and shifter cable...with the shifter and trany in 2nd gear (important). Connect the transmission lines from the B&M cooler out front of the radiator.

Now the TTI 2.25 headers (214)...Note- my Indy Hemi Hipo head ports are 2 1/8 inch wide and the header flanges are 2-inches...buy TTI and Indy said this should be an issue. I would have liked the flanges to match the head ports...but there was no room to grind and match as this would have damaged the ceramic coating and flange to header welds. NOTE to TTI and INDY-increase the header flange size for the Hemi Hipo heads.
- With the engine and trany still floating...I lifted the engine as much as I could with the crane and wrestled the drivers side header in from below the car. It fit in!!! I caught all the bolts and it helped to have access with no inner fender wells.
- Pass side header went right in from below...but the header bolts were a [censored] to catch because the engine is closer to the stock shock tower on this side. But I got them in.

I will tell you TTI did an exellent job on these headers as they do fit the stock EBODY torsion bars and manual steering box. TIGHT but fits!!! The header to trans blanket clearance is all but nothing so I will make some aluminum shields to put in between or the blanket will melt.

OK...off to finish the rest!

Now that the Hemi is in and the headers on you now know what works and what dont. Would like to know if it would have been easier installing with the heads off? I need to install a 572 Hemi into an A body using TTI 2 1/8 headers. My thought was to install with 727 bolted on, but without the heads. Really not sure of the best way to do this, but any opinions from you would be appreciated. Thanks

Dave- My engine was all built and dyno tested by Indy...complete long block (callies iron siamese block). I would drop the engine in with the heads My EBODY was tight with a HEMI. I do not know muck about a-body as never had one. I did installed my 500inch wedge with the trany bolted on with a hoist that could pivit the angle of the assembly. This time i wanted to go engine in first and bring the trany in from under the car. With the front engine plate I was able to slide the engine forward on the frame rails in the engine bay enough to bring my 727 in from down under. Once engine and trany bolted together...I just slid the engine and trany back into correct position in the bay so the stock trany mount bolted into place.

TTI is really good at making headers for mopar. 8-second said he had to put his drivers side header into the bay and drop the hemi engine into it. TTI told me I could get the header in from below if I raised the engine enough and TTI was right. It was tight but the 2.25 header went in (with scuffs and scratches).

I spoke with Sam at TTI and he provided technical assistant on the phone. Call TTI and ask them about your application. They been doing it for years.

One thing about my 2.25 header in the EBODY with all else stock. It is tight with little to no clearance from torsion bars and the transmission. I use a blanket on my 727 trany and the blanket is against the headers so I made some aluminum shields to stuff between the headers and the blanket so the blanket won't melt away from the heat of the headers. The drivers side is tightest because the PPP shifter bracket takes some room. Wish someone would make a certified case...but not enough MOPAR drag racers. More Chevy and Ford. Just look at the Summit sales magazine...very little Mopar product.

Put the engine in, slip trans in from bottom. Starter goes on, then headers, then steering box, once bolted up you can put the pitman arm on and slip the torsion bars in. That’s using the tti a body headers. Depending on how you locate the engine, mine is in the spot the original 383 was at I needed to space the k frame down 1/2” for header clearance to the steering linkage. Thankful I have a lift.

Thanks for explaining. I will give TTI a call.

I see this wont be an easy task as it was for my 511 which went in with trans bolted up. Thanks guys

One thing I forgot to mention...the headers have to come out, or be really loose, for the transmission to come out of the car. I remove the passenger side header and then take the driver's side loose. The headers wrap around underneath the bellhousing enough that you can't drop the trans down w/ the headers in place.