WOW, what a way to post a question.

Anyway, I have always put my Hemis and trans in from the bottom as a complete unit. There is no room to do anything with headers otherwise. I don't know if it can even be done from the top because I have never even tried. It certainly seems like a much larger wrestling match dropping it in from the top.

Let us know how it goes.

My is Slightly different. I have a tubular K frame with coil overs. I welded up my 4 piece Hooker Super Comp headers as on piece and can install them both at once from underneath with the engine installed.

Are they really different from a B-body with the same OEM restrictions?

TTI usually has very comprehensive instructions that go with their headers.

I did not check but they may be available from their website.

I would try to get ahold the installation instructions.

I would, and have, buy a good set of multi piece race headers and install them in the car, piece of cake
You may, probably will have to, remove the drag ling under the oil pan and pitman and idler arm and lay it out of the way until your done with the headers

who makes those multi piece headers for Hemi and are they available for A body?

Who makes thos headers blue-stocker?

People have been putting headers on Hemi cars for the past 50 years so it can't be that difficult.

TTI's will go in from the bottom, but you will have to do a little jacking from one side and then the other. Follow the instructions.

One thing no one has asked the OP is whether he is planning on 2 1/8" or 2 1/4" tubes. On my 2 1/4" TTIs, the lower row of bolts are an absolute pain to get to. Now, with his fender wells removed, it might be easier on the OP's car. But still around the shock tower could be a problem.

I bought a pair of JR headers from the NHOA back in the 80's. The only thing that fit were the flanges bolting up to the heads.

These are an older nos Hooker 2-1/8 race set I bought 4-5 years ago for a b-body project car I sold before moving to Tennessee. Ceramic coated, adjustable but the struts and primary tubes for lengthening didn't come with this set. Can't say how old they are but I can say it was before Hooker turned into crap mfg...these are very nice headers.

OK...I will buy the 2 1/4 TTI headers from INDY and will let you all know how it goes.

Thanks for the feedback

Yes, Hooker makes those

I have the TTI 2.25" primary 4" collector headers on my '70 cuda. It has all stock front suspension and everything else.
The passenger side header will go in the car after the motor is in. If you unbolt it, it will just about fall out of the car. Bolts aren't that bad to do from underneath the car. Had to do a little massaging to the top outer primary tube to clear the torsion bar ahead of the collector.
The driver's side Needs to be in the car prior to the motor going in. Most of those bolts are easily done from up top.
I do have a motorplate instead of factory mounts.

I'm glad you brought this point up. I have a friend with an extra set of TTI 2.25" headers (#214s) for my 70 540" Hemi powered E body, but I'd like to run Hotchkis Torsion Bars and either a Firm-Feel or Borgeson steering box. I'm wondering if the 2.25's will work, or will I need to go with the TTI 2.125" versions... Anyone know or have experience with this? K Member is stock.

The TTI website is pretty good. Look on there for fitting issues.
www.ttiexhaust.com

BD I don't know which block you are using but if it's Callies or World I will have to direct you to a video.

Aren't those steering boxes smaller that the original power boxes? And the 'bars shouldn't matter. My block is a World iron and the 2 1/4 tubes are all over the stock power box. I slotted the box mounting holes so I could move the box over just a bit and dimpled the tube that was right up against the box. I also slid a piece of insolation between the tube and the box trying to reduce the heat in the box. Engine location is critical. My K is by Al Debevic.