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Correct spray area for e-body cowl black out #311267
05/07/09 09:36 PM
05/07/09 09:36 PM
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Green Lane, PA
sawdust Offline OP
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Getting ready to do the cowl black out on my cuda, but see the factory sheet shows to stop at the area where the cowl/hood seal ends. I have seen others that go to the fenders, any "correct" pics of the right way?

Re: Correct spray area for e-body cowl black out [Re: sawdust] #311268
05/07/09 10:32 PM
05/07/09 10:32 PM
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Phila Pa
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scatpacktom Offline
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No such thing as correct way to do that.I would say close your eyes and squeeze the trigger.

Re: Correct spray area for e-body cowl black out [Re: scatpacktom] #311269
05/07/09 10:51 PM
05/07/09 10:51 PM
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Williamsport, PA
Kingy Offline
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Lay down on the floor, close your eyes and squeeze the trigger

Re: Correct spray area for e-body cowl black out [Re: Kingy] #311270
05/08/09 07:10 PM
05/08/09 07:10 PM
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Green Lane, PA
sawdust Offline OP
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would a case of beer help?

Re: Correct spray area for e-body cowl black out [Re: sawdust] #311271
05/08/09 07:37 PM
05/08/09 07:37 PM
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Florida
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cataclysm80 Offline
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I vote for going all the way to the fenders. Do the entire top of the cowl.

Here's a link to a thread about T/A blackouts.
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...&PHPSESSID=
Do your cowl like that, but don't blackout anything on the fenders under the hood unless you're doing a T/A.

If I remember correctly, The T/A & AAR cowl blackout was sprayed before body color then masked off, and could be either organisol or regular blackout paint.

Other 70 E bodies would have the blackout sprayed after body color, same time as other blackouts, and would be regular blackout paint, not organisol.

The last 2 or 3 months of 70 production had cowl blackout cancelled, so E bodies after that shouldn't have it.

hope that helps.
Tav

Re: Correct spray area for e-body cowl black out [Re: cataclysm80] #311272
10/24/13 06:36 PM
10/24/13 06:36 PM
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Home of the Bluegrass
MoparJunkie Offline
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If my '70 challenger was build on April 1 of '70 would it have the blackout area painted or no?
Can anyone provide the areas that would be if it should have it???


"It takes a Mopar to catch a Mopar”
1971 Roadrunner FJ6 Sassy Grass 505"RB, 18 spline 4 speed, and Dana 60 with 3.54
2022 Hellcat Charger Widebody Redeye Jailbreak: Hellraisin with 8 speed auto



Re: Correct spray area for e-body cowl black out [Re: MoparJunkie] #311273
10/24/13 08:32 PM
10/24/13 08:32 PM
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Ky
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jt4406 Offline
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My notes say cuda, but I would think a Challenger would be the same. Does any of your pics you got with the car show the cowl before it was painted?
Jess


Yeah, it's hopped up to over 160...
Re: Correct spray area for e-body cowl black out [Re: jt4406] #311274
10/24/13 08:33 PM
10/24/13 08:33 PM
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Ky
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jt4406 Offline
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while we're at it....


Yeah, it's hopped up to over 160...
Re: Correct spray area for e-body cowl black out [Re: jt4406] #311275
10/24/13 08:36 PM
10/24/13 08:36 PM
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Ky
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jt4406 Offline
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aaannnnnndddddd...


Yeah, it's hopped up to over 160...
Re: Correct spray area for e-body cowl black out [Re: jt4406] #311276
10/24/13 08:59 PM
10/24/13 08:59 PM
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Home of the Bluegrass
MoparJunkie Offline
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So.... RT's received blackout on pinch welds too? I thought T/A's and AAR's got that???? Learn something new everyday... Lol


"It takes a Mopar to catch a Mopar”
1971 Roadrunner FJ6 Sassy Grass 505"RB, 18 spline 4 speed, and Dana 60 with 3.54
2022 Hellcat Charger Widebody Redeye Jailbreak: Hellraisin with 8 speed auto



Re: Correct spray area for e-body cowl black out [Re: MoparJunkie] #311277
10/24/13 09:03 PM
10/24/13 09:03 PM
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Home of the Bluegrass
MoparJunkie Offline
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Well... After following advice of checking old car pics from before first paint (which never made it out of the shop) shows only signs of blackout on radiator core support. So, an April build car was in the blackout ommission time frame for the cowl???

Last edited by gg70rtUcode; 10/24/13 09:31 PM.

"It takes a Mopar to catch a Mopar”
1971 Roadrunner FJ6 Sassy Grass 505"RB, 18 spline 4 speed, and Dana 60 with 3.54
2022 Hellcat Charger Widebody Redeye Jailbreak: Hellraisin with 8 speed auto



Re: Correct spray area for e-body cowl black out [Re: MoparJunkie] #311278
10/25/13 08:46 AM
10/25/13 08:46 AM
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In the 8's
FY1TA Offline
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Most cars that got the cowl blacked out were early built .

Re: Correct spray area for e-body cowl black out [Re: FY1TA] #311279
10/26/13 07:36 PM
10/26/13 07:36 PM
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Connecticut
1972CudaV21 Offline
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Quote:

Most cars that got the cowl blacked out were early built .




My 1972 'Cuda with the V21 option came with the factory blackout on the cowl - all original bay.

Re: Correct spray area for e-body cowl black out [Re: 1972CudaV21] #311280
10/26/13 08:29 PM
10/26/13 08:29 PM
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In the 8's
FY1TA Offline
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Not talking about 72's.

Re: Correct spray area for e-body cowl black out [Re: FY1TA] #311281
10/27/13 12:10 PM
10/27/13 12:10 PM
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SE Wisconsin, USA
RP's R/T's Offline
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What they were "supposed to do" and what they did varied.
All the blackout was painted after body color...otherwise there would be no reason to note on the drawing that the black was not to be painted on certain color cars.

The cowl was painted across the top(of course) and some amount of paint went under the back corners of the fenders on the cowl.(I've seen it puddled there) The edge where the black cowl meets the firewall was NOT a sharp line (tapped off). It was fogged, indicating it was sprayed at an angle from about where the windshield would be. In some cases the black shows up on the firewall in spots.

Many people miss the blacking of the frame in the front wheel well as shown in the drawing.
Everything that would be seen through the grill should be black.
Then the pinch welt.
I have also soon factory black paint in the inset of the taillight panel where the frame of the taillight surround attaches to the body. The taillight surround outer edge is, of course, black on a Challenger. so painting black in the recess would keep that bit of lighter body color from being seeing.

My guess is the guys on the line did whatever they did as quick as possible and often ignored/missed certain areas as well.
As noted, by the middle of the 70 model year many of these details went away with more following each year as cost savings, no-doubt.

Re: Correct spray area for e-body cowl black out [Re: RP's R/T's] #311282
10/30/13 08:39 PM
10/30/13 08:39 PM
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I DA HOE
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3406pac Offline
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I DA HOE
Sorry if I missed the answer.
I have read thru all this and the link.
My AAR is still at the resto shop and none of the cowl, pinch weld, or radiator core support was painted blackout.
He says he has never seen this and has reference photos.
So not sure if his photos are correct or if this does not apply to the AAR.
I am not sure i want to bother with the pinch weld on a purple car, but if the other areas need to be painted then ??
Thanks

BTW the paint guide above says for 1971 cars


AAR cuda 71 rag challenger
Re: Correct spray area for e-body cowl black out [Re: 3406pac] #311283
10/30/13 09:05 PM
10/30/13 09:05 PM
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Dry Heat AZ
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AAR#2 Offline
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Per the engineering drawings FC7 would get the blackout. I've had a couple AAR's and each had the blackout in most areas.

Ultimately if your car didn't have it and you can prove it, don't apply it

Re: Correct spray area for e-body cowl black out [Re: 3406pac] #311284
10/31/13 10:50 AM
10/31/13 10:50 AM
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Ontario, Canada
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I have purple, black, F8 etc. etc. cars with blackout....As a matter of fact - I do not have any without it. AAR's and T/A's (all of mine) had the cowl blackout (and the fenders etc.) done with organosol. They were done a lot neater on these cars than the typical "fogged on" approach done on the non AAR - T/A cars.

Re: Correct spray area for e-body cowl black out [Re: FY1TA] #311285
10/31/13 01:52 PM
10/31/13 01:52 PM
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Connecticut
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Quote:

Not talking about 72's.




Aye Aye

Re: Correct spray area for e-body cowl black out [Re: 1972CudaV21] #311286
11/01/13 02:53 PM
11/01/13 02:53 PM
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South Dakota
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Ok OT on a 72 V21 cuda what gets blacked out? I thought only front of support got blacked out. Doing my dads 72 and hope to be putting color on it next week. It's a B5 car btw.


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