You need to talk to a convertor builder more than a bunch of guys on the internet.

The cam I installed in my engine has the rpm range listed at 3600-7600. What stall speed toque converter would be best suited for this cam? Would a factory torque converter from an h.p. 383/440 be O.K. or do I need to go aftermarket and get a higher stall converter? Rear gears are 3.73.

The cam I installed in my engine has the rpm range listed at 3600-7600. What stall speed toque converter would be best suited for this cam? Would a factory torque converter from an h.p. 383/440 be O.K. or do I need to go aftermarket and get a higher stall converter? Rear gears are 3.73.

A cam listed with those rpm hi and low points is quite radical, requiring a high stall of some sort. What you need depends on end usage. Race only? Probably a high 5,000 to over 6000 stall. Street driving part of the equation? Tighter. But most likely 4,000 minimum for decent results. There are so many variables, only a good converter builder will know what to recomend. I am guessing the minimum price for a quality
Converter will be in the range of $750 and up, and most likely more. DO NOT go for a bargain priced unit! Get a part time gig. Sell the cat, what ever it takes but buy QUALITY.

Would a factory torque converter from an h.p. 383/440 be O.K.

What year and model car?
That cam is very similar to the solid roller cam I ran in my pump gas 505 C.I. Duster with a six pack on low compression ratio (9.25 to 1 with iron heads) 400 stroker motor except your lobe centers are closer, mine was ground on a 108 LSA and installed at 106 ATDC on the intake lobes.
The tighter LSA will increase low end power but not have as much power above 5500 RPM or maybe a little higher or lower depending on where you install the cam, straight up, advanced or retarded
Do you have power brakes? If so, change the cam, if not I would try it

i have a 440 in a '65 coronet that is strictly a street car. i use a 238@.050"/.510 lift solid cam, 110lsa, with a 1966 street hemi converter; no mods to the converter, and a 3.23 gear. this drives very well, has a good ignition curve, but the converter is a little tight for the cam. i don't know if you can buy that .528 cam anymore but somebody ought to be able to grind something close. if you want something to drive nice without the loose converter headaches i'd look at something in the 230-235@.050" range and maybe a 112lsa. a bunch of valve overlap at idle and right off idle is what messes you up. my cam has about 75 degrees overlap and that's really too much for the converter. i don't want a looser converter because the 3.23 gear works good for in town and moderate road use. loose converters and tall gears are not a good mix.

What size tire you running ?
What’s your engine speed at lets say 50 or 55 mph?

Trying to compare to my ride. I have a 10” TA 17508. Way too loose so was wondering how much difference between these two converters.
I have a SH converter to try.

O.K., here's the deal on my situation. When I wanted to have my engine built, the guy who was building it for me basically laid out the plan for the build. I took his advice but now it appears I shouldn't have as it turns out he was more of a strip oriented car kind of guy and I wanted an engine more suited for the street. He was a member of the family via in-laws and has since passed away before the engine was completed so I am trying to finish the engine and trans. myself so I can finally install them in the car. I believe for the most part (correct me if I am wrong) the engine would be O.K. for the street had it not been for this camshaft/lifter set-up he had me get which is this. https://www.howardscams.com/mechani...-chrysler-383-440-3600-7600-howards-cams The engine is a 400 block with the 440 Source 470 stroker kit. 10.8 compression with Eddy RPM heads, Comp Cams Magnum roller rockers, Eddy Performer intake, Holley 775 or 875 cfm carb (I have both) and TTI 1 3/4" headers. I really don't want a high stall converter to drive around on the street. So, I think rather than investing in a high stall converter that would be suited for the cam I would rather just replace the cam with something that is more suited for a street car that will allow me to use a 2400-2800 stall converter (which I have). I would appreciate recommendations on what a good choice for a cam would be that would work with the engine specs I listed and the torque converter I have along with the 3.73 gear ratio.

Yeah you'll be happier in the long run with a smaller cam on the street and then a regular "high performance" converter. For your engine I'd recommend something like the old Mopar Performance 528 solid. That cam works great in a 470 high performance street engine. It is big enough to make good top end power, but it will also drive really nice with a typical high stall street converter. It isn't a race cam so don't buy a race converter, just stick with high performance street parts. Call Porter Racing Heads and tell them what you're trying to do and they'll get you the correct camshaft for your application.

Yeah you'll be happier in the long run with a smaller cam on the street and then a regular "high performance" converter. For your engine I'd recommend something like the old Mopar Performance 528 solid. That cam works great in a 470 high performance street engine. It is big enough to make good top end power, but it will also drive really nice with a typical high stall street converter. It isn't a race cam so don't buy a race converter, just stick with high performance street parts. Call Porter Racing Heads and tell them what you're trying to do and they'll get you the correct camshaft for your application.