Cam and torque converter question

The cam I installed in my engine has the rpm range listed at 3600-7600. What stall speed toque converter would be best suited for this cam? Would a factory torque converter from an h.p. 383/440 be O.K. or do I need to go aftermarket and get a higher stall converter? Rear gears are 3.73.

You need to talk to a convertor builder more than a bunch of guys on the internet.

And they're gonna need a whole lot more info that what you gave us to determine what you need.

There are too many variables here to give a definitive answer but I don't think a stock converter will cut it. Stall RPM usually works best when equal to peak torque RPM, give this info to your converter supplier (if you have it). Custom converters are worth the money if you want to get the best out of your entire combination.
For info, I've recently fitted 3.73 gears in place of 4:10's. Stall has increased 900 rpm (5200 - 6100) on my 8" ATi treemaster and slip at the finish has gone from 9% to 16%. I didn't think it would be so sensitive to rear ratio, unless I've broke it ! but I will be needing a converter for N20 any way

Right, with a given converter, stall increases with either a lower number axle ratio or 1st gear (viz. 3.73:1 vs. 4.10:1, or 1.82:1 PG vs. 2.45:1 727).
Don't shop price, get the best one you can afford, it affects performance every time you use the car.

A cam listed with those rpm hi and low points is quite radical, requiring a high stall of some sort. What you need depends on end usage. Race only? Probably a high 5,000 to over 6000 stall. Street driving part of the equation? Tighter. But most likely 4,000 minimum for decent results. There are so many variables, only a good converter builder will know what to recomend. I am guessing the minimum price for a quality
Converter will be in the range of $750 and up, and most likely more. DO NOT go for a bargain priced unit! Get a part time gig. Sell the cat, what ever it takes but buy QUALITY.

OP didn't offer enough info to help him.....you know that.

He needs to call a converter builder and answer the questions they are going to ask. Then he will get in the ballpark.
Asking here barely gets you in parking lot of the ball park.

Speaking to converter builders has taught me more than OP will ever learn from "us" guessing at his situation and goals.

OP, there are 3 people you never lie to....your wife, your doctor, and your converter guy. And not in that order.

This is an absolute NO!!!!

My favorite customers that never understood why their stuff never ran hard was the following. Spend 5-10K on an engine, big camshaft, making good power and backing it up with a stock or $250 converter. Of course it doesn't leave hard or seems doggy when you stomp on it. LOL

O.K., here's the deal on my situation. When I wanted to have my engine built, the guy who was building it for me basically laid out the plan for the build. I took his advice but now it appears I shouldn't have as it turns out he was more of a strip oriented car kind of guy and I wanted an engine more suited for the street. He was a member of the family via in-laws and has since passed away before the engine was completed so I am trying to finish the engine and trans. myself so I can finally install them in the car. I believe for the most part (correct me if I am wrong) the engine would be O.K. for the street had it not been for this camshaft/lifter set-up he had me get which is this. https://www.howardscams.com/mechani...-chrysler-383-440-3600-7600-howards-cams The engine is a 400 block with the 440 Source 470 stroker kit. 10.8 compression with Eddy RPM heads, Comp Cams Magnum roller rockers, Eddy Performer intake, Holley 775 or 875 cfm carb (I have both) and TTI 1 3/4" headers. I really don't want a high stall converter to drive around on the street. So, I think rather than investing in a high stall converter that would be suited for the cam I would rather just replace the cam with something that is more suited for a street car that will allow me to use a 2400-2800 stall converter (which I have). I would appreciate recommendations on what a good choice for a cam would be that would work with the engine specs I listed and the torque converter I have along with the 3.73 gear ratio.

Yeah you'll be happier in the long run with a smaller cam on the street and then a regular "high performance" converter. For your engine I'd recommend something like the old Mopar Performance 528 solid. That cam works great in a 470 high performance street engine. It is big enough to make good top end power, but it will also drive really nice with a typical high stall street converter. It isn't a race cam so don't buy a race converter, just stick with high performance street parts. Call Porter Racing Heads and tell them what you're trying to do and they'll get you the correct camshaft for your application.

I think what it comes down to, is you need to be honest with what you want this car to be and how often it'll really get raced.

If it's going to be used for the majority as a street car, I'm 100% on board with Andy that picking a smaller cam will make it start/idle/drive/cruise a LOT better.

If it's going to be used for the majority as a race car, then leave the big cam in it, and put a loose converter in it so it runs good at the track.

Smaller cam is what you need based on what you state. That 260 at .050 cam on a tight LSA isn't going to be street friendly at all.

The 528 is a great cam. I run one in a 340. Something in the 230-240 at .050 range with a 108-110 lsa would be a lot easier to deal with on the street. Still have a choppy idle with better manners with a solid idle tune up on it.

Still spend a couple bucks on a converter. IMO, most important piece of the puzzle on an auto car. Converter tech has come a long way from the days of a high stall being akin to stepping on a marshmellow when rolling into throttle.

What year and model car?
That cam is very similar to the solid roller cam I ran in my pump gas 505 C.I. Duster with a six pack on low compression ratio (9.25 to 1 with iron heads) 400 stroker motor except your lobe centers are closer, mine was ground on a 108 LSA and installed at 106 ATDC on the intake lobes.
The tighter LSA will increase low end power but not have as much power above 5500 RPM or maybe a little higher or lower depending on where you install the cam, straight up, advanced or retarded
Do you have power brakes? If so, change the cam, if not I would try it

!969 Dart. No power brakes. I just really don't want to run a high stall converter. I have a friend who had one in his car (stroked 360 Duster) and he let me drive it. Don't care for the high stall converter. I'm not going racing at the track so that is not a factor.

Something small like the Mopar 528 cam and a "Hemi" converter should take care of it if you aren't going racing. For street driving you just want the converter loose enough that it doesn't push you when you are at the drive thru lane or a stop light. If you have a small performance cam like the 528 you'll have a slightly raised idle speed so you'll need something a little looser than a stock converter. Idle speed might be 900 rpm with the 528 so you'll need a converter that lets it idle okay but you still want it "locked up" when you are cruising down the freeway at 2000 rpm.

i have a 440 in a '65 coronet that is strictly a street car. i use a 238@.050"/.510 lift solid cam, 110lsa, with a 1966 street hemi converter; no mods to the converter, and a 3.23 gear. this drives very well, has a good ignition curve, but the converter is a little tight for the cam. i don't know if you can buy that .528 cam anymore but somebody ought to be able to grind something close. if you want something to drive nice without the loose converter headaches i'd look at something in the 230-235@.050" range and maybe a 112lsa. a bunch of valve overlap at idle and right off idle torque lose is what messes you up. my cam has about 75 degrees overlap and that's really too much for the converter. i don't want a looser converter because the 3.23 gear works good for in town and moderate road use. loose converters and tall gears are not a good mix.

What size tire you running ?
What’s your engine speed at lets say 50 or 55 mph?

Trying to compare to my ride. I have a 10” TA 17508. Way too loose so was wondering how much difference between these two converters.
I have a SH converter to try.

28" tire. a little over 25mph per 1000rpm. this converter i use will not flash or stall according to the service manual, but i'm using a lot more cam than any factory engine which does reduce off idle torque. i've got everything tuned fairly good so even if cam/converter aren't a perfect match the car does drive very well.

Put a smaller camshaft in it, a hydraulic flat tappet like a Comp Cams Thumper grind, or something that that. You can sell off your new Howards camshaft to offset some of the cost. If you're not sure what to get. speak with Dwayne Porter as AndyF suggested

That cam is 385 through Mancini.

I've had more bad race converters than good ones, I ended up finding out that a very good 8 inch race converter from Turbo Action was the best converter I have owned. It was made for a SS/AH back in the late 1990s, that was a GREAT street and strip converter. It would drive away very nicely from a dead stop with very light throttle pressure and set me way back in the seat when foot stalling it up around 3600 RPM before flooring it at the races
Paul Rossi use to test converters for Turbo Action and he made a comment one night when testing at O.C.I.R years ago, he said you are truly blest when you get a really good converter That was back in the late 1970s

I think I'm going to take your advice and go with the MP528 solid cam. Will it be a direct swap for the Howard's cam/lifters I have now or will I have to change the pushrods as well? I had installed new Trend pushrods when I installed the Comp Magnum rocker arm assemblies.

I've been looking for a 528 Purple Shaft to no avail. I'm starting to think about maybe going with a hydraulic cam instead. Based on the specs I posted above on how my engine is built, I would appreciate any recommendations on a hydraulic cam that would be a good choice for my engine (is there a comparable hydraulic to the 528 Purple Shaft?). Again, I won't be taking the car to the track and I don't want a real high stall converter. Maybe 3000 rpm tops.

If the converter is too tight (low stall):
ragged idle in gear
fights the brakes
stronger shock to the axle on shifting > loss of traction

Put one of the small Howards solids in it.

I also like the old MP.528 solid. I'm running it in my 440 Shortram motor. I use the factory hi stall convertor with it and it works very well.

racer brown for the 528 cam

other choice would be the 280 /474 hyd mopar , do NOT use the 284 / 484 for this combo !