Some updates rebuilding the 485" for Dizuster. This is your chance to inform Scott that the engine needs to remain BLACK as he wants it painted OEM bluegreen. Firecore wires (thanks Rick!) are on the way but, here's a pic laying out the wire routing. I have some fittings coming in today that finish the oil system. A wondering eye might catch the oil filter adapter shares a bolt with the air-pump mount which is mounted on the back side of the motorplate. The filter is easily accessible dropping down in the factory K-frame opening. I also choose to Tee the pressure out side to feed the rear of the block fitting that i opened to 1/4NPT.

I cut one dome off a different piston I never used YEARS ago to experiment and then REBCO machine did the remaining mods to make these up the compression to 12.2ish and Line-2-Line coated the skirts because they were for 4.390 bore.(block is 4.395) What was nice is that over the phone, Rebco was able to know that the pistons could be lightened based on the information i gave him, this allowed swapping pistons without a requiring a rebalance!

While i had the heads apart to clean, I went ahead and opened the PR pinch as much as possible and added burr chatter to areas of the runner.

They look good in factory colors. My 499 was black, and I grew tired of it.

I had to correct the length of the Air pump drive and while i was there I added a pilot. Using a vintage DC tach drive dist, I welded solid the advance mech. for crank trigger. It's an RB dist so I added this spacer which i o-ringed. I also 'deburred' the cam gear for the bronze drive and limited the travel with a collar on the distributer shaft.

Damnyou!

More layout protoing. Alternator pulley is bolted-on separately.

Reusing same cam from Bullet, but I've read it's not the best choice? I'm happy with it however, and very pleased with their service. This was a premeasured sketch, the actual NET is about .735" Used the PAC 1225 spring with about .07 from C/B and intakes are 2.25" Ti. Exh 1.81 SS I had it installed at 105.5ICL but it's now installed at 107. P-2-V is still pretty far away .140/I and .200/E if i recall correctly. Nothing fancy commonly available for rings so it got 1/16 1/16 and 3/16 but i set the oil around 12lbs. Motor bars over about 15ft lbs no seals, until you bolt it all together. Run ready WITHOUT spark plugs, it's about 75ft lbs!!!

For me, any motor going in a 62-65 B-Body race car should be Race Hemi Orange. Just my opinion...

I thought hard about making it orange too, but ultimately decided the Turqouise factory color on the green car would look best.

I told HardcoreB if he wanted support for a black block, and tarnished aluminum heads/intake, he should go look for support on www.chevyguy.com.


My build will keep the black valve covers, which I think are period correct to match the AFB's that will top it all off. But heads/intake/block will all go green. Still deciding if motor plate will be Aluminum/Black/Turqouise.


Getting pretty excited about the build, this has been WELL WELL engineered by HardcoreB. Lots of thought put into the pieces chosen, layout on the plate, etc.... Used pipe max to guide the design.

FED is almost there, intake is getting close to having it's extensive modifications done, etc...

I have a LOT of weight out of the car. New front wheels/tires, 10gal less fuel, rear seat out, light front brakes, 170lbs of turbo/street car stuff out, etc... At the end of the day it's looking to be ~250lbs lighter depending on how much more the Big Block weighs than the Small Block.

It's looking good enough I'm adding bars to finally cert below 9.99, which the turbo combo never had.

Based on Jeff's pic I like the plate black now, IMO! Here's another mock-up, I was hoping the TR would fit.

I say Black block...but im not a show car guy......

In the end i think turquoise would really go well with the color of the car....but again im not a show car guy at all. Fast first, flashy second....LOL

The bottom line is the owner gets the final word...
But, I like the aluminum and black color combo. Aluminum parts stay aluminum color (intake, heads, water pump housing, timing cover, etc.) and other parts get painted black (block if iron, valve covers, etc.).

My only advice to Dizuster is that the engine color (blue/green) and car color might look strange if the exact same color isn't used.

Black supposedly allows more heat to radiate from the block but it might also allow more heat from the headers into the block.
Lighter colors such as the Mopar turquoise or orange brighten up the engine compartment making it easier to see what you are working on or fluid leaks.

The only engine color that I ever thought looked hideous was an eye burning bright lime green engine in a blue Fox body Mustang

Since your not building a 1400 HP normally aspirated Prostock engine I vote give it some color. And oh I definitely agree that new bare aluminum looks good but older dull corroded aluminum is just ugly. Paint the heads, intake, valve covers, etc..

I agree discolored bare aluminum looks bad. That is why I clear coated my intake manifold and water pump housing. If I had a guy to clear coat my block with automotive clear, I would have done it.

I like clean aluminum. Dirty, discolored, corroded aluminum not so much. What clear do you use that doesn't yellow from heat and withstands gasoline spillage and cleaners?

That K frame better get a fresh coat of black.
Dad

Since the only motor that was orange in the year was a 413 max then the terqous would be more period correct...

I appreciate all the responses and opinions! Based on so many different color suggestions, I'm going to continue to recommend BLACK! If you mixed every color together here to satisfy the masses, that's what you'd get? IDK