As the title says...looking for standard torsion bar specifications, specifically 1975-1979 B-body two-doors and 1975-1979 B-body models. I'm looking at suspension upgrades and would like to engineer out some of the marshmallow feel out of the front end of a '76 Charger.

Some of those cars also had k-member isolators. The rubber would deteriorate and cause all sorts of problems.

Remy, what are you working on and what are the goals?

Basic build plan is an Interstate capable machine that handles a bit better than a stock police-spec Fury/Monaco, with the current goal being to have the car driver-ready for Rocky Mountain Race Week's "Road Week" in 2023.. The subframe bushings are garbage, replacing those with FirmFeel pieces are on the short list of modifications. I'm not looking to do a G-machine or anything like that. I'm not planning on adding stupid power (the big-build idea would be a 408 stroker in the 400-450 hp range at best). I just want to improve on what is already there. It's a roughly 60,xxx mile car, so it's not completely busted, but the Charger could use some upgrades over stock. The rear suspension is getting the same eye...not sure if I want to to do the basic coil-over support shock I used on my previous builds or if I will go to an adjustable unit.

your car looks good with those wheels !

Interstate capable? We drove these cars 75/80 mph all day long back then and didn't even know what a overdrive was. Replacing all of the rubber suspension parts would be the biggest improvement, but then again the rubber stuff available today is garbage.

I agree.

What make model rims are those?

Very cool. Like your paint choice with them, nicely executed.

Nice lookin' Cordoba!

I'd suggest anything that's available from Firm Feel (bushings, etc), but, perhaps the easiest and best bang-for-the-buck would be a set (front and rear) of DOUBLE-ADJUSTABLE shocks.

I've recently installed a set of Viking Double-adjustables (new Biserker models)... and eventually played with the adjustment knobs (while at a high-speed road course track, as well as a local pylon autocross event)... and WOW... you can really make QUICK adjustments with an absolute improvement in ride and handling!... only takes ~one-minute per shock These have replaced my old RED-D KONI shocks (great old shocks, best at the time ~40 years ago), but... having to remove and compress to adjust is a hassle... and very time consuming.

You can also get QA-1 double adjustable shocks... but definitely... as I'm suggesting... get the DOUBLE-ADJUSTABLE versions from your choice of shock company... you won't regret it with the amazing availability of ride/comfort/handling adjustment. I suggest trying different extremes... full soft, middle, full stiff... lots of variables... and you can quickly and easily change the settings per your day of driving.

I don't believe there's much you can get for your car, other than replacing the bushings from FF. Also, I believe Richard E'Berg recently wrote about the bushing replacements for these cars in Mopar Action magazine (one or two latest issues?).

Also, learn to play with and adjust your tire PSIs (front and rear)... per your ride comfort and common travel routes.

That car looks amazing Remy.


I'm going to start with budget minded upgrades first:

• frame ties
• front and rear sway bars
• shimming the power steering pressure valve
• five leaf rear springs
• Bilstein shocks
• Rear ISO delete

The above will get you interstate capable that feels more modern without breaking the bank.

I can't recommend ties enough. The amount of flex in the unibody is crazy. Difference in normal driving and lane changes at speed will be night and day. Don't go overboard...ties that are welded to the front and rear rails are enough. No need to go through the floor with something like this.

I don't think it's necessary to go with adjustable shocks at this level unless you can get a set for a reasonable amount of money.

More pricey:

• Torsion bars
• Borgeson steering box
• adjustable shocks

Don't be afraid of high rate torsion bars. 300# bars ride fine with enough sidewall. A 235-60-15 BFG on the front works great with this. Higher rate bars though require better shocks, so it does get pricey.

I would start on the cheap list and evaluate as you go. For an expressway cruiser the top list would probably make you happy.

Halibrand Sprint 15-inch in Anthracite. 15x7 front, 15x10 rear. CLICK HERE to check the whole line out.

This one has seen 70-75 MPH already...and surprisingly, turned 20 MPG in the process! The long-range goal is some kind of overdrive (manual trans is not out of the question) in a car that I can drive anywhere in the lower 48 without fear, but that's also in line with a healthy power bump for the 360. The Charger tracks pretty solid as-is, but I know the subframe mounts are beyond shot and that the shocks need to be replaced. I'll take a look at the double-adjustable stuff, I've got friends who have Viking and QA1 connections for the moment.

Installing higher grade shocks and leaving the wore out rubber in the suspension, and leaving the rubber mounts in the K member and the rubber around the leaf spring mounts just doesn't make much sense to me, but its not my money your spending.

I have no intention of leaving in garbage-grade rubber. But I also need to keep the car from bottoming out on the road from my house into town. This car is driven...like "any day it ain't raining daily" driven. It's a Cordoba with sporting aspirations, not a Hemi Coronet.

Shocks are intended to reduce or eliminate bounce from the suspension, they are not intended to raise the vehicle (unless they are air shocks). If your car is bottoming out, jack up the front end, and use the adjusting screw to put more tension on the torsion bars. If the car sits too high for your taste after the adjustment, larger diameter torsion bars are in your future.

I have owned a lot of that era Mopar cars back in the day. Suspension bottoming out was just a torsion bar adjustment, that was why the bars were adjustable. Two full rounds ( got to start some where may need more, or less) on each of the adjusting bolts will make a huge difference on ride quality, and only takes a few minutes of time and no money. Don't judge the ride height until after you have driven the car, it will settle down after being driven a few miles.

If its still bottoms out after adjusting the torsion bars, you really need to look at the rear springs and the spring hangers. Here in the rust belt, I've replaced many rear spring shackle frame mounting points. They had a bad habit of sleazing the bushing, and start twisting the steel sleeve in the frame mount until it started ripping out. Gene

Take the weight off the front tires when you adjust the bars. Keeps from screwing up the adujsters.

Engine cradle on steel
Proper alignment
These cars are rigid, don't bother with frame ties
Torsion bar mount on poly bushing
Rear sway bar 73-up b body in poly, bolts in
Front sway bar from a cop car if you cant find in poly bushings
Remove rear iso, convert lower shock plates to the std set up we are used to so you can use real shocks
Shocks on the front are a challenge Use a 70's chevy mailbu performance shock and change the lower insert for mopar. tight fit!!!
Cop car torsion bars if u can find them look in the parts book, mopar performance chassis manual to understand what u are looking for
15x8 or 16x8 with appropriate tires 26” tall
2.94 rear 2500 stall converter, trans cooler, atf 4 mopar
Remember I know nothing even after flogging this stuff around the road course....lol
ps cooler, synthetic fluids etc. You are on your own now, tech support is closed