TF270 vs. Indy 325 Big EZ1.....on a 512/400 ......B1's are not being considered due to special pistons required.

What's your thoughts? Which will make more HP? About to pull the trigger here.

The best flowing heads will make the most power at WOT
I wish I knew which ones are the best flowing but I don't

What's the rest of the engine & car combination?

Flow is very similar.

325 has a little larger area.......if you build something that can take advantage of that, it should be able to exploit that.

TF’s are less money and don’t need offset rockers.

One thing the mopar world is not short on is another 340cfm head. Take your pick

True Dat......

Its funny my G3 heads flow more air, 375cfm, with less lift....

The combo is my tried and true Duster...Should be 2705lbs without me in it. Shooting for 5.99 on pump gas!

Guy just went 6.08 112 + at 2930 pounds on pump gas with a small block and non offset stock style aluminum replacement heads( like edelbrocks) first time out with 1 5/8 headers on it. Correct headers and sorted out should go 5.90. That’s a touch under 650 horse.
500 inch big block with way better flowing heads should do it falling off a log,…

If the TF heads are in stock then they would be the lower cost, lower hassle choice. You can use a standard rocker arm setup so you save more money there. You can also oil the rocker arms internally with the TF heads. The TF270 heads are good for 700+ hp right out of the box. With a really good intake manifold and the right cam you can make close to 800 hp with the TF270 heads. The Indy big EZ heads will make more power on a race engine but you'll need to spend more money. The 572 that we just ran on the dyno made 860 hp with the big EZ heads so they can make power.

Has anyone gone 5.90's with TrickFlows? Just curious.

5.90s will require one hp per four pounds race weight. At 3000 race weight, that would mean about 750 hp actual, not dyno. So if you have DA of 2000 feet, you can see a need for a car/driver weight of 2900 or less, depending on $$$ spent to build hp.

Disagree it would take anywhere near that.

Respectfully, for sure you are dedicated to this hobby and you get things done! You are asking for thoughts. Are these thoughts to help you best achieve your new goals? I'm eager to offer some suggestions based on your responses. For posterity, we should consider the last motor you built (which i would need a refresher on details) and how it ran. Other than the heads, what are you changing? Where you happy with what it ran before or is your plan to step things up everywhere?
MY thoughts are to ask some relevant questions:

1) What's wrong with the heads you had before?
2) What are your goals? (HP/ET?)
3) Are you imposing any limits to what parts to use? Are you imposing limits to how much you want to spend?

That shouldn't be a problem for either head as long as the rest of the combination is up to the task.

Ok so you bring up some questions....I figured I would keep it simple to see if one had a major advantage over the other....So a little background:

Last engine was a beast. It went 6.02 at 115mph on probably its third or forth outing with slicks that had two seasons on them. Had a guy make me an offer on it, I could not pass up. Sold it. It was a 543/440 with Indy Big EZ1 heads switched to 2.25 intake valves. Fully ported, and a .680 lift cam and nearly 14:1 compression.

Also had a 512/400 with those heads and it also went 6.00 in that combo...

Now building a very similar engine 512/400 block, now with a .713 lift Bullet cam and same duration, different Centerline I think, fresh slicks, and only 10.7 compression.

Same everything else....Goal 5.90 again....now with a little smaller engine.

PS....I had multiple buyers for the car drop out, so I did not expect to be doing this again with this car, and got a late start on it. Its well built and with the right parts, it should achieve my goal. Or sell this shortblock at the end of the season and build another 543...I probably should have one as a backup anyway.

Where are you geting info from?
I raced with a 3,000 lb dart, 499 with indy 440-1 bowl ported heads, good sized roller, 14x32 tires. Went 9.50s on gas at 12.8 compression, 9.30s on alky injected. We race in MN usually at 2200 da (ok air) to 4500 ( hot). A motor dynoing at 750 hp won't make near that at 2200 da and humidity.

I'm not sure what exactly you weighed anymore? 2950? 3000? 115mph is not good MPH for fully ported Indy heads/Intake and 14:1 Something was wrong there and whatever you did in the past has to change to make 725-750HP to reach your goals. I feel taking a hard look at some of the dyno tests AndyF has done and interpreting just what you can and can't get away without. On a stock block thin rings and gas ports go a long way along with a vac pump. If you are the engine builder/engineer you should know what the exact cam specs are along with the valvetrain it'll take to support it...power there. One thing I'm sure you're missing is the intake manifold, you say cutting out the extensions is the way to go but when you look at Wilsons work AND pipemax programs you'll see different. Beyond that it's execution on the details that separates a guy making 50-100+ more HP using the same parts. Please take this all constructively, that's my intent.

Well, we know somthing is holding it back a little. Last year we made crazy looking headers for it. and went the same 9.48/6.0 with our previous combo.....

So this year, we are changing cams...Bullet cam is .711/.699 with 272/278 @50 on a 108 lobe separation instead of 110... I think my other was...Weight wize, it should be 2950 with me in it. It was 3000lb with the 543/440....

My 470 made 750 hp with the TF270 head and pump gas compression but it was a really serious build. I had to test multiple cams before finding one that worked just right. That engine also had a Wilson ported intake, Jesel belt drive, external oil pump, etc. It was more expensive than a typical bracket race engine. I probably had about $20,000 in that engine. I think it could be duplicated for less but a person would need to make all the correct choices.

The easiest way to make more power is to add compression. The 10.7 compression is going to really box you in. You can make big power with that compression but you get forced into a narrow power range and a very specific camshaft.

I saw your build. I only remember some of the specs. I had the pistons & block already, so they are what they are. Seems you had some pretty exotic valve train on that engine. I always wanted build a crazy 1.8:1 ratio rocker pump gas beast....Your engine was pretty neat. I cannot afford Wilson's services, so I did mine myself. I did call them for an estimate though. Nice people.

Cam should be here Tuesday. Its an incremental change from what we have been running since 2013....So no dyno time, and just our best guess.

What do you think you will want to do down the road? If you will be happy with 5.90 1/8th ets, then i would take a hard look at what it would take to get there with the 270s. You might have to get some weight off the car, but i suspect it might be doable. If you want to go faster and faster, look to a bigger head that can be opened up further. A frank talk with some seasoned dyno operaters/ engine builders will shed light on cost, versus power and reliability. In my case i expect to go 8.40s in the 1/4 at 2880 lbs but i am spending a bundle to do it. If i had put half the money i have spent on this quest in a much lighter car
I could build a much lower stress powerplant.