Yeah, a motor plate plus a couple of gaskets should get that to clear. I always use a 3/8 motor plate and those clear. If you use a belt driven distributor then you have space the water pump housing out about an inch.

For me Jim, I'd probably go to a remote pump mounted on the lower rad tank or thereabouts. It gets things out of the way and shifts some weight lower and towards the pass side. It's pretty easy to fab up some threaded pucks to route water in/out. you could even get fancy and reverse flow it at no addl. upcharge.

Part 5 – Oil Pan & Oil Level. Build Notes

After installing the fittings for the external oil pump pickup and the B1 head drain lines, I capped the connections and did a water leak test. While doing this, I measured the water added to see where the oil level would be with 7 and 8 qts. The MIL-31150 pan has a built in windage tray that mounts to the metal bridges at the front/center/rear of the oil pan. With 7 qts the level was below these bridges. With 8 qts it was slightly above these bridges; less than 1/8" front. The built-in windage tray slants toward the rear, similar (but less) to the bottom of the pan (4” sump front, 5” sump rear).

Where is the water level when the pan is at a 45 ?

I have not tried that. When I empty it after 24hrs, I will estimate when it starts to overflow the rear rail.
One nice thing about the Milodon pans in this series; the built-in windage tray actually traps the oil beneath it. So it slows the transient movement out of the sump under extreme circumstances.

Good to know.

Jim, are you forced into that shallow pan by your chassis? Many years ago I read where an SS hemi kept eight quarts of oil wrapped around the crank at eight thou rpm. Seems I have always been in a fight to keep the pickup covered. I currently run a 3 qt accusump and total 12 qts in a much larger pan. Finally no more oil pressure loss on decel.

No. It was the best pan I could find to buy. Nobody had anything in stock this year.
The 9 qt version would be better, but this should work. No wheel stands in my chassis Daytona!
I do like the trap door in the pan for decel , under the tray. It forms a closed box around the swinging pickup.

I will let you know in the spring...

Did you notice the oil scraper/stripper on the side above the windage tray?
Captures windage and drops it to the sump. Lots of good features, and this series of Milodon pans has been around for a long time.
We will find out.

I don't know why some combos have issues and other don't. My 540 Dart did wheel stands to the 60 ft mark, low 1.2x sixty foot and 9.0 ET in the quarter mile, shifted 7200 RPM and never had any oil pressure issues anywhere. And this was the simple oil pan and single line swinging pickup (8qts in the pan). The sump has no top cover, just the typical slotted Milodon full length windage tray between the pan and block.

I performed your 45 degree test this morning.
First I removed 2 qts of water to simulate some amount that will be "upstairs" in a running engine. It could be much more "upstairs" then that, IMO.
Then I tilted the pan back until the liquid level reached the top of the pan where it bolts to the block. This was roughly (by eye) 15 degrees.
With the windage tray bolted-in, I quickly tilted the pan to 45 degrees for about 1 second (a long time IMO). A couple qts of water spilled over. Lots left covering the pickup, which moved to the back of the pan.
I removed the tray to see the water level and pickup at the same time.
Finally I tilted the pan to 45 degrees and held it there allowing water to flow out. The pickup was still covered with about 1.5 to 2.0 qts left in the pan.

I don't know what your 45 degree test means in an actual drag car launch, but those are my observations.

According to some “on car” tests the 45 angle approximates the g force for cars that ran mid elevens back in the day.

Assuming much of the oil will stay trapped in the back of the block and that some of the oil upstairs will drain back to the pan it sounds like you may have enough oil.
A real scrapper should be worth some power in that pan plus keep more oil in the sump. Plus that oil that escaped is going to hit 7/8 rod and rear counterweight - not good for power or aeration.

If forced to use that pan, I would add a real scrapper and add an expanded metal screen above that windage tray. All the oil coming off the rotating assembly is going to bounce off that tray. I would make a tight fitting secondary tray to cover the pickup housing. Whatever you do remember you need to make sure returning oil can get to the sump/pickup.

We always added 2 or 3 quarts to what the sump held to accommodate oil upstairs in a running engine. So you are close on that point. But with the advent of reduced oil upstairs by bushed lifter, etc. that number may be skinnied up.

15 degrees nose down to see how much oil is in the sump for decel and if it covers the pickup.

I would be interested in what would happen if a two to four inch high spacer was put between the block and pan. Add a screen about one inch above the pan rail as well. As I recall improvements were seen years ago with pans as deep as ten inch below the block rail.

Chrysler used to advocate never having the oil any closer to rotating parts by 6” or less.

Scrappers, properly designed trays and correct drainage to the pan have changed that.

The issue yo uneed to be concerned with when using a B1 head is getting the oil back to the pan. Especially if you are running a vacuum pump, that is going to fight getting the oil back n the pan. IMO the bigger you can make those drainback lines the better off you will be. Oil control n a BBM is always gong to be an issue. I see most bandaid that buy running a huge quantity of oil, which works but does not cure the problem. It is just inherent with the design. Better pans, scrapers etc all help.

This. I was running -8 drainbacks lines from the front & back of the heads to the pan, and the pan was a custom pan with a lot going on inside, but can't remember the name of the vendor, but it wasn't cheap. At the time I was running Moroso's big enhanced 4-vane vac pump. Drainback was not an issue. Chuck put the regulator in the custom valley tray, and everything worked great.

Any vacuum will fight the drain back, just science Some pans are better designed than others for sure, oil control is an issue for sure especially with some pans.. That's a pretty big pan you had there. We run 8qt pans and of course run vacuum pumps and try to get every inch we can out f them. My current B1 deal is now pulling 17ish inches of vacuum. We always run -8 return lines as well, with a good pan and scraper that we make, only way to get it as close as possible to the crank.

We have the same issue in the Vette with its wet sump system. Heads we use are like B1 stuff in that they use drainback lines, we also have drainback lines in the valley of the block. We pull as much vacuum as we possible can and for a wet sump it does well at 20ish. We run as little oil as we can in that deal as well and its 0 weight oil at 7 qts when racing. On the dyno we have to run as much as 11 qts in the pan to keep oil in the thing. We dont beat it up on the dyno though as its just a tool and changes are always needed in the car to make it happy. We just get a feel for timing and peas, usually no more than 5-6 pulls.

I tried making a You-Tube video showing one of my oil system tests.
This is the assembled engine, except one pair of lifters are removed to view the oil flow through the small (0.030"-0.035") hole in the lifter bushings.
I was using a slow (600 rpm max) battery powered hand drill to turn the oil pump, 64 psi with these lifters removed. Nice to know oil pressure exists even with lifters removed.
Plenty of flow though that little hole !

YouTube LINK to oiling test

I also placed a set of pushrods in the lifters (no rocker arms) to make sure it pumped oil to the rockers/heads. Successful, but my video is too dark for a good view. The oil flowed out the rocker end of the pushrods, but did not shoot out like in the lifter bore. There was no pressure on the pushrods except their own weight resting in the lifter cup.

We run the restrictors a bit tighter than yours is and never had an issue. Juts trying to keep oil down low.I have been down to .025". On ereason for the bushings is what you just found. Toss a liter from a broken rocker or badly broken spring and you still have pressure. The problem then will be the link bar. Why I like to use keyway stuff but overkill for most everyone.

Things happen when racing.

Before I put the rocker arms on the heads, I took this video showing the oil flow at the top of the pushrods.

https://youtu.be/LDWOWz-Ftgc

Comp Cams 892 roller lifters
All lifters in place, using a slow (600 rpm max) battery powered hand drill to turn the oil pump, 66psi.
And with the rocker arms installed, oil flowed into the rockers and out the hole at the roller tip.