Re: LA360 valve cover torque specs
[Re: B300 VanDanage]
#3003147
01/08/22 12:45 PM
01/08/22 12:45 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,765 A collage of whims
topside
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Posts: 20,765
A collage of whims
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Rocker arm covers = valve covers; it's technically more accurate wording, I guess.
As for torque, honestly I don't recall measuring; enough to compress a cork gasket but not enough to bend the tin. Generally I kind of sneak up on the final tightness after a few heat cycles. I would guess I end up around *** mistake *** way off *** read on *** (face palm) I like to glue or seal the gasket to the cover, and smear a little grease on the head-side of the gasket.
Last edited by topside; 01/08/22 01:59 PM.
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Re: LA360 valve cover torque specs
[Re: topside]
#3003157
01/08/22 01:29 PM
01/08/22 01:29 PM
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Rocker arm covers = valve covers; it's technically more accurate wording, I guess.
As for torque, honestly I don't recall measuring; enough to compress a cork gasket but not enough to bend the tin. Generally I kind of sneak up on the final tightness after a few heat cycles. I would guess I end up around 15 ft-lbs, maybe a couple more. I like to glue or seal the gasket to the cover, and smear a little grease on the head-side of the gasket. 15ftlbs?? Seems like I would definitely cause some damage with that amount of torque... I think the last time I torqued them was about 100inchlbs and I started to bend the metal a little... If I don't torque them enough though there will definitely be oil starting to leak and at that point the gaskets will be shot... I also have the rubber "infused" gaskets which I assume are stronger than the cork one's... It really is confusing finding the correct torque specs because the gaskets, depending on the material, can only handle so much... For example the cork gaskets for the transmission pan splits before you reach the specified torque but with a paper material gasket it's fine... I try and avoid cork if I can. So the 40 inch lbs I'm at is the bare minimum I presume... I'd also point out that the Haynes Manual says to clean the mating surfaces with a cleaner or the seal will develope a leak but I also understand some gaskets can be sprayed or coated with a lubricant to prevent sticking... I like the idea of being able to reuse the gasket if I need to take those covers off again but I also don't like to neglect the instructions... Won't putting grease on one side of the gaskets cause them to leak???
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Re: LA360 valve cover torque specs
[Re: B300 VanDanage]
#3003158
01/08/22 01:39 PM
01/08/22 01:39 PM
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Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 983 rust belt
Moparite
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super stock
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rust belt
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15ftlbs?? Seems like I would definitely cause some damage with that amount of torque...
Print says INCH POUNDS not foot pounds.
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Re: LA360 valve cover torque specs
[Re: topside]
#3003189
01/08/22 02:58 PM
01/08/22 02:58 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,400 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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crank 'em up till they break or strip, then back 'em off 1/2 a turn.............. while there is a torque value, i have had the most success by using a 1/4" ratchet and just making them slightly more than snug. then, depending what you are using for gaskets, snug them a little more after a few heat cycles. this way, you don't bend tin covers, and crack cast ones. [especially the chinesium ones] the "spreader bars" you sometimes see on covers are a good idea if you can find ones that fit, or are able to fab up some yourself, which is relatively easy to do.
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Re: LA360 valve cover torque specs
[Re: Moparite]
#3003210
01/08/22 04:01 PM
01/08/22 04:01 PM
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Joined: May 2021
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15ftlbs?? Seems like I would definitely cause some damage with that amount of torque...
Print says INCH POUNDS not foot pounds. I was referring to Topside's comment...
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Re: LA360 valve cover torque specs
[Re: topside]
#3003215
01/08/22 04:19 PM
01/08/22 04:19 PM
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Like I said, it's only a guess - I don't really think in inch pounds... But yeah, my guess was off by a mile. Looked at an online conversion table, and 40 inch-lbs is 3.33 ft-lbs. 15 ft-lbs was 180 inch-lbs. Maybe I should have said "snug + a half-turn", but it's a "feel" thing. Gotcha, no biggie... I guess it's going to be one of those things where the exact torque specs out of a guide might not necessarily be the best way of attaching those covers... It's seams as though the most common method is to use your best judgement and snug em, then check on them and retighten after a few heat cycles... I'll just start tightening the bolts in 10inchlb increments until I see fit... Hopefully these rubber gaskets are stronger than I think... Thanks everyone!
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Re: LA360 valve cover torque specs
[Re: Diplomat360]
#3003449
01/09/22 01:43 PM
01/09/22 01:43 PM
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When I was using the factory covers I always (even between gasket changes) made sure the lip was straight and no dings in them (on the sealing/mating surface)...then 40 in-lbs.
Since I switched to the cast MP covers the dings no longer show-up, so now it's just 40 in-lbs. I have bolts and the only mention of them is in the Chilton guide at 40inchlbs. The Haynes Manual only specifies for nuts and studs not bolts... I went to 40inch lbs at first and ended up tightening them to 65inchlbs and I think I should've stayed at 40 because it's hard for me to tell but I think the cover is starting to deform at 65...
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Re: LA360 valve cover torque specs
[Re: moparx]
#3003451
01/09/22 01:48 PM
01/09/22 01:48 PM
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crank 'em up till they break or strip, then back 'em off 1/2 a turn.............. while there is a torque value, i have had the most success by using a 1/4" ratchet and just making them slightly more than snug. then, depending what you are using for gaskets, snug them a little more after a few heat cycles. this way, you don't bend tin covers, and crack cast ones. [especially the chinesium ones] the "spreader bars" you sometimes see on covers are a good idea if you can find ones that fit, or are able to fab up some yourself, which is relatively easy to do. I ended up at 65inchlbs... Got a little bend in the covers though... The "spreader bars" are a good idea... I'll fab some of those up before the next time I take the covers off. Hopefully there aren't any leaks this time!
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Re: LA360 valve cover torque specs
[Re: Moparite]
#3003994
01/11/22 12:16 AM
01/11/22 12:16 AM
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Actually you should look at the factory service manual. The print has 74-80, 81-93, 94 on, Assuming this is for the small block the design didn't change until the magnum came out. I believe they used those triangle shaped washers in the 81-93 witch may have changed the value a bit. And the magnum 5.2 started in 92 and 93 for the 5.9 so technically 94 is wrong. I couldn't stand the flimsy stamped valve covers because they always where bent so all my mopars have cast ones. A factor manual would be nice but I'm not about to pay top dollar for one and couldn't find the cd version of it for my year...I don't remember if someone gave me a link to something in another thread but I'm confident the bolts are 40 inch lbs. The nuts and studs are all specified in the Haynes Manual. I have the stamped covers... I'm thinking of making some 'spreader bars'...
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Re: LA360 valve cover torque specs
[Re: topside]
#3004100
01/11/22 12:32 PM
01/11/22 12:32 PM
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It's been a LONG time since I've used a rubber VC gasket - switched to cork decades ago, which in my experience seal better. I know some guys swear by the ribbed rubber/silicone kind too, but I'm still a "cork guy" in that application. What I like about the cork is they usually have tabs that fit into slots on the covers to hold them in place. These rubber ones I bought don't have tabs so you have to rtv them in place... I know with certain gaskets they need to be in pristine condition and dry but since oil leeked on these is it possible to wipe them clean and slather them with rtv and reinstall them? Would I be waisting my time?? Should I just order a new set?? I'm going to make some load spreaders and probably buy studs so I can torque them down more... Edit: I just did a quick search and apparently the rubber vc gaskets can be reused! Since I rtv'ed them to the cover I should be able to pull them off and just wipe them down... What can I use to clean the gasket material that won't destroy it?? I just thought of something! I'll need to flatten the covers again and I can't since the gaskets are rtv'ed to the cover! Unless using the load spreaders flattens them for me??
Last edited by B300 VanDanage; 01/11/22 12:47 PM.
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Re: LA360 valve cover torque specs
[Re: B300 VanDanage]
#3004113
01/11/22 01:06 PM
01/11/22 01:06 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,145 Canada -- Posts: 4034 -Registe...
5thAve
Doesn't care what this says anyway
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Doesn't care what this says anyway
Joined: Jan 2003
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Canada -- Posts: 4034 -Registe...
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It's been a LONG time since I've used a rubber VC gasket - switched to cork decades ago, which in my experience seal better. I know some guys swear by the ribbed rubber/silicone kind too, but I'm still a "cork guy" in that application. What I like about the cork is they usually have tabs that fit into slots on the covers to hold them in place. These rubber ones I bought don't have tabs so you have to rtv them in place... I know with certain gaskets they need to be in pristine condition and dry but since oil leeked on these is it possible to wipe them clean and slather them with rtv and reinstall them? Would I be waisting my time?? Should I just order a new set?? I'm going to make some load spreaders and probably buy studs so I can torque them down more... Edit: I just did a quick search and apparently the rubber vc gaskets can be reused! Since I rtv'ed them to the cover I should be able to pull them off and just wipe them down... What can I use to clean the gasket material that won't destroy it?? I just thought of something! I'll need to flatten the covers again and I can't since the gaskets are rtv'ed to the cover! Unless using the load spreaders flattens them for me?? The reusable ones have a solid core and those inserts around the bolt holes to prevent over tightening. I never rtv them in place but they should still be reusable because the block side will still seal. If you used any other rubber kind all bets are off.
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