Hi everyone,

79' Dodge B300 5.9L 360 V8

I'm swapping the valve covers and the manuals aren't very clear for my particular engine...
The Haynes Manual specifies the torque for covers with nuts and studs but I have bolts...
Right now I have them at 40inch lbs...

The Chilton guide doesn't say anything about 'valve covers' but it does mention the "rocker arm covers" so I'm assuming that's the same thing, never heard them referred to as rocker arm covers... This book does mention bolts as well as the nuts and studs...

Here's pictures out of both guides...

I'm leaning towards the 40inch lbs mentioned in the Chilton Manual and I'm only putting rtv on the cover side of the gaskets...

So what would be the correct specs for my application?? Thanks!

Rocker arm covers = valve covers; it's technically more accurate wording, I guess.

As for torque, honestly I don't recall measuring; enough to compress a cork gasket but not enough to bend the tin.
Generally I kind of sneak up on the final tightness after a few heat cycles.
I would guess I end up around *** mistake *** way off *** read on *** (face palm)
I like to glue or seal the gasket to the cover, and smear a little grease on the head-side of the gasket.

15ftlbs?? Seems like I would definitely cause some damage with that amount of torque... I think the last time I torqued them was about 100inchlbs and I started to bend the metal a little... If I don't torque them enough though there will definitely be oil starting to leak and at that point the gaskets will be shot...
I also have the rubber "infused" gaskets which I assume are stronger than the cork one's...
It really is confusing finding the correct torque specs because the gaskets, depending on the material, can only handle so much...
For example the cork gaskets for the transmission pan splits before you reach the specified torque but with a paper material gasket it's fine... I try and avoid cork if I can.
So the 40 inch lbs I'm at is the bare minimum I presume...

I'd also point out that the Haynes Manual says to clean the mating surfaces with a cleaner or the seal will develope a leak but I also understand some gaskets can be sprayed or coated with a lubricant to prevent sticking... I like the idea of being able to reuse the gasket if I need to take those covers off again but I also don't like to neglect the instructions...
Won't putting grease on one side of the gaskets cause them to leak???

Print says INCH POUNDS not foot pounds.

Like I said, it's only a guess - I don't really think in inch pounds...
But yeah, my guess was off by a mile.
Looked at an online conversion table, and 40 inch-lbs is 3.33 ft-lbs.
15 ft-lbs was 180 inch-lbs.
Maybe I should have said "snug + a half-turn", but it's a "feel" thing.

crank 'em up till they break or strip, then back 'em off 1/2 a turn..............

while there is a torque value, i have had the most success by using a 1/4" ratchet and just making them slightly more than snug.
then, depending what you are using for gaskets, snug them a little more after a few heat cycles.
this way, you don't bend tin covers, and crack cast ones. [especially the chinesium ones]
the "spreader bars" you sometimes see on covers are a good idea if you can find ones that fit, or are able to fab up some yourself, which is relatively easy to do.

I don't know if i've ever used a torque wrench on them. I usually do them a little bit tighter then what screwdriver tight would feel like.

I was referring to Topside's comment...

Gotcha, no biggie... I guess it's going to be one of those things where the exact torque specs out of a
guide might not necessarily be the best way of attaching those covers...

It's seams as though the most common method is to use your best judgement and snug em, then check on them and retighten after a few heat cycles...

I'll just start tightening the bolts in 10inchlb increments until I see fit... Hopefully these rubber gaskets are stronger than I think...

Thanks everyone!

When I was using the factory covers I always (even between gasket changes) made sure the lip was straight and no dings in them (on the sealing/mating surface)...then 40 in-lbs.

Since I switched to the cast MP covers the dings no longer show-up, so now it's just 40 in-lbs.

I have bolts and the only mention of them is in the Chilton guide at 40inchlbs. The Haynes Manual only specifies for nuts and studs not bolts... I went to 40inch lbs at first and ended up tightening them to 65inchlbs and I think I should've stayed at 40 because it's hard for me to tell but I think the cover is starting to deform at 65...

I ended up at 65inchlbs... Got a little bend in the covers though... The "spreader bars" are a good idea... I'll fab some of those up before the next time I take the covers off. Hopefully there aren't any leaks this time!

Actually you should look at the factory service manual. The print has 74-80, 81-93, 94 on, Assuming this is for the small block the design didn't change until the magnum came out. I believe they used those triangle shaped washers in the 81-93 witch may have changed the value a bit. And the magnum 5.2 started in 92 and 93 for the 5.9 so technically 94 is wrong. I couldn't stand the flimsy stamped valve covers because they always where bent so all my mopars have cast ones.

I've always flattened the tin covers before I did anything else. Then installed the gasket, and hand tightened with a 1/4" ratchet, socket and 3" extension. Stop when it feels snug, or just starts to deform the tin. After a few heat cycles, I'll check them again, very carefully. I've split more gaskets on the retighten then i ever did on the 1st round. If the retighten turns more that a 1/2 turn, the gasket is probably junk.

Not sure what sort of old school valve cover gaskets you are all using, but step up to the modern world.

Steel stops so you can torque it up properly without deforming the cover, seals greats.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cgt-c15468/make/dodge

A factor manual would be nice but I'm not about to pay top dollar for one and couldn't find the cd version of it for my year...I don't remember if someone gave me a link to something in another thread but I'm confident the bolts are 40 inch lbs. The nuts and studs are all specified in the Haynes Manual.
I have the stamped covers... I'm thinking of making some 'spreader bars'...

I flattened them and they are the stamped ones. I also cleaned all the surfaces really well with brake cleaner...
The type of gaskets I'm using are these: FEL-PRO VS 50184 R Valve Cover Gaskets.
At 65inchlbs with bolts it looks like these type of gaskets can handle a lot more torque!

Despite my efforts though the gaskets are leaking on the head side!
I think they either need more torque or they need rtv on the head side also...
I can't torque them anymore because they're starting to deform...

First off, I'll need new gaskets now correct?

I'm also thinking of changing to studs for higher torque capacity. I'm also thinking of making bolt spreaders or whatever they're called...
With spreaders and studs I should be able to get a tight seal!

It's been a LONG time since I've used a rubber VC gasket - switched to cork decades ago, which in my experience seal better.
I know some guys swear by the ribbed rubber/silicone kind too, but I'm still a "cork guy" in that application.

What I like about the cork is they usually have tabs that fit into slots on the covers to hold them in place. These rubber ones I bought don't have tabs so you have to rtv them in place...

I know with certain gaskets they need to be in pristine condition and dry but since oil leeked on these is it possible to wipe them clean and slather them with rtv and reinstall them? Would I be waisting my time?? Should I just order a new set??

I'm going to make some load spreaders and probably buy studs so I can torque them down more...

Edit: I just did a quick search and apparently the rubber vc gaskets can be reused! Since I rtv'ed them to the cover I should be able to pull them off and just wipe them down... What can I use to clean the gasket material that won't destroy it??

I just thought of something! I'll need to flatten the covers again and I can't since the gaskets are rtv'ed to the cover! Unless using the load spreaders flattens them for me??

The reusable ones have a solid core and those inserts around the bolt holes to prevent over tightening. I never rtv them in place but they should still be reusable because the block side will still seal. If you used any other rubber kind all bets are off.