Hey everybody,

I'm just curious if anybody is currently still using a Super Stock spring / Pinion snubber combo and fast they are going. ET ? MPH ? 60' ? I would also like to know if anybody is currently using a "Rear" anti roll bar with Super stock springs?

Building a 72 Pro Stock Cuda. I have it in my mind that it will most likely get switched to a Caltrack system, split mono leaf and a slider in the end but I would really like to just try the S/S springs and see what we can do It also allows me to build the car and then custom tailor the Caltrack system to the car. Ride height, spring Length’s etc. But.... if the S/S springs work, they might just stay put! Who knows

This car WILL be active, not so much as a "every" weekend racer but will attend and race a few Nostalgia events per year.

Facts to consider.... E-body, approx. 2800lbs, 800 to 1000 HP, 31x10.5w tire, Auto (for now but has clutch peddle ), Dana, 4.10 gear

Anybody have any personal experience with this type of combo here?

Thanks for reading

Cal-tracs are smoother, more consistent and have better longevity than the current MP SS springs.

Back in the early 90s......

69' Barracuda, SS springs with the cheap shocks they were usually paired with and nothing else as far as snubbers, bars, etc. 3280#, Mark Williams Dana 60, with 4.56s, stock ratio 727 with 8" converter that was foot braked to about 2000rpm and flashed to around 5000rpm. Nothing special 499ci wedge, with Indy 440-1s. 9.20s to 9.40s depending on weather conditions at ATCO, with a best 60' of 1.28. Street driven as if gas was free..........and although we're still dummies, we were much dumber back then.

PS.......inboard kit w/ 12" Firestones on 15 x 12 Centerlines.

If Cal-tracs are an option I wouldn't waste the time or money on S/S springs and pinion snubber.

The whole idea with S/S springs is the front segment has virtually no flex - all that is left to the rear segment. So basically you now have a solid front lower link. The snubber acts as the upper link.. Tuning is limited to moving the front mount up or down and/or the pinion snubber gap.

Cal-tracs work in a similar manner - the front mono segment has a bit of flex. The lower bars are lengthened or shortened to affect the flex and subsequent "hit". But the advantage is that both sides are adjustable.

Before I bought Cal-Tracks I would spend the same money and buy the Assassin bars from Smith Race craft in Texas. Far more adjustable.

That just means you'll be saying "sh!t, that didn't work" more often.

I don't know what type support is provided for the Assassin Bars but I would be hard to imagine them doing any better than Calvert.

The Rube Goldberg of traction aids.

99% of the fastest leaf spring cars are using Cal-tacs.

Adjustability is bad? Got it. Learn to tune and they work. Any dedicated race car that isn’t rule limited to leaf springs should run the Rube Goldberg inspired 4 link.

More adjustability does not necessarily equate to better performance. I have many slots on the crank gear of my timing set. It doesn't mean the other slots provide any value to my combination.

How do know ? Once you find what works you don’t change it but how did you get there ?

Against SS:
designed for a heavier car with smaller tires and far less power
the left-right spring bias is not what your car wants, and difficult to modify

This. Power to weight ratio is way different than a 60's Super Stocker. Caltracs and monoleafs (not SS springs) can work but are only optimal for classes that only allow bolt on suspension mods.
Your going to want a 4 link or at least ladder bars.

If I was you I would put that money towards a set of ladder bars and coil overs shock conversion, that frees up a bunch of clearances for bigger tires later
My old pump gas street car with that set up would hooked up in a mud puddle during a rain storm
A.K.A. it would hook really well on the street and at the tracks, best 60 ft. was around 1.37 That pushes you way back in the seat at the hit, it will even hurt your neck and back until you get use to it leaving that hard

My pump gas with mufflers street car with Cal-Tracs and 275's has done 1.36, so....

I've been 1.34-1.37 with 002/003 and a snubber., best ever 1.31 all steel/stock glass 71 Dart with a good rb stroker. I wouldn't consider the 60's it's strong point though. It was inconsistent, and when wheelie-ing would go right. But it is cheap. It would body lift the left rear a good bit but hardly anything on the right rear. Which is why I think it went right by shortening /pulling the left rear forward.

Hey , Thanks for responding.

Did you have a Rear Anti Roll bar on the car? Just curious. Also.. How stable "stable" was the car at the big end?

Chris

Also... you mind me asking where you got that scoop? And how tall it is? Same one I am currently looking for ... I think... lol

I need one of the "Mopar Pro Stock Hoods" too for my nostalgia dart build. When I was seeing if they were around, I believe speedway motors had them. An ebay search may get you started as to who actually has them too.

I went 1.34 and 9.80’s in a 3350 pound A body Duster. Not minitubbed, 28 by 10 tire, with cheap CE 3 way shocks all around, 002/003 super stock springs, no pinion snubber.
Car was ultra consistent, would hook on ice.
That said, i consider an E body a harder car to get to work because of no rear overhang like A and B bodies have. Significant liability.
Were it me, making 800-1000 horsepower, and not looking to set world speed records, but trying to have a reliable car, i would move right past Calverts and go with ladder bars, or 4 link.