Does anyone have a recommendation for upper control arms for a B body. I need to get more caster. I had it lined up yesterday, It was driving terrible at anything over 40 mph. The caster was at -2.5 but the camber and toe were good. He was able to get the caster around +2 but he couldn't the camber to come in and keep the caster in the +. I have seen several control arms that say 3-5 degrees of caster built in and they are non-adjustable. Would I be better to use the adjustable or non-adjustable. Mainly a streetcar but it will be going to the track a couple times a year. I want to be able to drive it as much as possible. It is a 68 Sport Satelite Convertible. I forgot to add. all of the front suspension has been rebuilt. would a adjustable strut rod get me a couple of degrees to where i can just adjust the eccentrics back to where they were instead of changing the upper control arms.

I have for many years had a quarter inch or so taken out of the stock rear arm next to the bushing. Simply cut the end off, remove 1/4" or so, square it up and weld it back on. That along with the offset bushings have always allowed the alignment shop to get me happy driving the car. Simple and cheap.

I have some Firm Feel arms on my 67 coronet.
Non Adjustable. They aren't designed to add huge amounts of caster and neg camber but even with rear of the car higher than the front I got 2.5* caster and -.5* camber. I imagine I'm losing a few degrees of caster from the stance of the car. Might drop the rear by moving the front spring into the upper bolt hole...

I like the idea of using a non-adjustable just because it is less to wear out and i dont need a ton of movement. My car is setup with the rear about 1/2-3/4 inch higher in the rear. Right now i believe it is setup with around 2.5+ but the camber is at .5 on the left and 1.7 on the right. It drives a whole lot better but i dont want to wear the new tires out i put on last week.

Are the uppers you currently have the aftermarket factory replacements?

Do you have Moog offset bushings in the forward location of the upper arms? This will help. Camber can be set at -1/2 with no ill effects. These two changes may get you close. I'm assuming the rear of the car is fairly high if he couldn't get any more positive caster. Do you have the printout?
Doug

I do have the print out at home. The current control arms are factory. The front end was recently rebuilt when I bought it about 8 months ago. I am not sure what parts were used other them everything come from PST.

The reason I asked is because I was having trouble getting mine dialed in as well. It almost looks like the upper ball joints are too tall in my case.

Jeff

Try the offset bushings before buying new UCAs

ill see if i can find a set of them

Just get the SPC arms. Fully adjustable. Making adjustments with the alignment heads still on the car and not having to raise the car is worth it. Putting +3-4 caster in the car is nice.

Some of the best money I've spent on my E-Body.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...o6BYhbX-nEZ-RKBVL23Qsif9-1QaAl0rEALw_wcB

I did see those also. They look nice and easy to adjust.

WOW! $480 for a pair?!?!? Is that right?

I just used the SPC upper control arms and was able to get 4.5 degrees of Caster. SPC eliminates the stock cam adjustment entirely and They don’t have heimi joints, so they are easy to adjust. My car is a 66 Coronet. I had it aligned twice before finally buying these control arms and now it drives really well.

They're worth double that, IMO.

I found them on one site for $207. each. It may be worth it in the long run just to know i can get the adjustment i need. I do exhaust work afternoons and weekends and need my lift empty as much as possible. The SPC look like they would go in pretty quick so i can get it off my lift and get customers cars in there.