Can someone measure the overall width of the spindle with a dial caliper (the tubular portion of the bell crank)?

I also need the width of the spacers between the booster and side brackets.

Thanks,

Cass

4 Spacers .682” OD, .424” ID, .250” Wide though I heard they can vary in width. I do not understand the other measurement you want.

I'm looking for the overall width of the tubular fulcrum at the base of the linkage. This is basically the distance between the 2 side brackets. The big pin with the square head passes through it.

Sorry, Cass. I had one until a month ago. I sold it. I have a customer coming in with one for me to install in his hemi RR but it won’t be anytime soon. He bought one from the b body board from a 69 charger. You might call frank badalson. I bet he knows.

Right about 2.0" Cass.

I measured 2 orig at 1.992 +- .0005 that is the tube length, there will be wavy washers between them.

Is your pivot bolt able to be removed from the side brackets and such?

If so I would greatly appreciate a picture of the unit disassembled.

While the service manual shows an exploded view a picture would be more helpful.
My pivot pin is seized, I need to get a new one made if I have to destroy it getting it apart.

Yah mine was seized also. Soaked in evaporust for a few days and still had to use a BFH to get it apart. I kind of screwed up the one end of the pivot that I have to rework yet. My pivot looks to be one solid unit, not individual spacers. etc

One more...I don't really understand the reason they used the square headed pin. I guess its so the pin doesn't rotate and wear into the outer bracket holes.

That’s my understanding as well for the square headed bolt.

My car sat for almost 40 years - the pin is seized in the pivot. I soaked my parts for a month to no avail.

I even got it hot and used a press, so soap.

Last trick I heard is to get it red hot then hit the pin/lever with candle wax. Sort of works like soldering plumbing, the wax gets sucked in.

If that doesn’t work then I am going to use a vertical mill to drill out the square headed bolt.

I had 2 sets of original hemi booster linkage. I sold one a couple years ago and now I can only find one side bracket.

Both pins were seized. I heated the tubing red hot with a torch and drove the pin out with a punch.

Thanks for the dimensions.

On seized parts like that, I heat them cherry red, then dip in water, or turn a hose on them if dipping isn't feasible. It's amazing how the abrupt temperature change loosens things. I do the same on exhaust manifolds with rusted/frozen studs. Haven't lost a manifold yet, and I even chance it on expensive ones too. Learned that trick from a blacksmith back in the early 60's. Would have sworn it couldn't work, but I was totally amazed.

This seized bolt must be a big problem. I sold my booster a month ago and he called me back and said it was frozen. He had another in the shop that was frozen as well. Mine was not rusty at all so could not imagine it was too bad. I’ve always heated steel red hot and dunked it in water. Always worked for me too.

the candle wax trick really works !
i used this trick on the small screwdriver head cowl vent screen retaining screws of my 33 dodge humpback panel truck that were rusty, and also had half of the slot boogered up.
after heating the screw red hot, and trying to not have the rust pop back and burn the head off, i applied a birthday cake candle to the screw[s]. not expecting anything, they screwed right out with little or no effort ! saved every single one of those tiny rascals ! if i remember right, they were 6-32 thread size.
since then, i have used the candle trick on bolt threads up to 3/4-16, and have had success every single time !

This is interesting. I have a 69 Hemi runner I got in January 1970 and I remember the first time I removed the part in question the pin was already stuck. I could not free it and replaced it in the assembly still frozen. I never had brake problems until recently, due to a leaking master cylinder, so this must be a case of 'I'd rather be lucky than good'. I will add that there is some play between the square end of the pin and the corresponding hole in the bracket, and that helps!

I'm not sure why Bendix used that square head pin. I guess they didn't want it turning and wallowing out the side brackets over time.