As stated, but functions normally otherwise.
Should I be looking for a short in that system, or can their be another
problem?

This is on a 70 Charger with a Painless re-wire.

Thanks, Joe

PS Turn signal lights work OK

PPS Just remembered we changed rear taillights to have dual filaments in all three bulbs each side,
could there be a feedback from that???

On my 68 Charger it moves also when turn signal works but not violently. Never seemed to hurt anything.

Mine goes from one extreme to the other in time with the signals,
it can't be good for the gauge's lifespan!!!

Thanks, Joe

The gauge will survive LOL. the ammeter is hard to beat.

How does it go with hazzards and brakes?

Does it go from C to D (+40 to -40 )? from D to C (-40 to + 40 )? I meant... which side of the amm flicks to first ? does it makes the all full sweep from side to side ?

No Hazards, when we rewired, decided to simplify that signal/hazard complication.

The Charger's at my son's garage, he'll help answer those questions wen he returns my call.

Thanks, Joe

OK, spoke with my son:

Brakes; -20 to +20 with neg. first

Turns; 0 to +40 for about 3-4 cycles, then -20 to +20 for a while , then back to 0 to +40


Puzzle for you Nacho, LOL thank you, Joe

Where is the fusebox wired into the system along the charge line route?

OEM fuseblock was pulled from the welded splice between the alternator and ammeter. From what you wrote regarding brakes it appears to be on the same side as OEM.

stock alternator at idle will not have the required output for anything other than a dome light most of the time. Just a bad set up from the original design.

Sensitive gauge and slow to respond VR possible.

Adding two more bulbs increased the amp draw to light them up, correct
Pull those two bulbs out and see how much that changes the amp meter swing
I would also look at all the grounds to the turn signals, improving them will reduce the current draw if the grounds are not good

also look close at the connection for the turn signal switch at the bottom of the column for looseness or corrosion.
this place has been an unending source of problems in my experience over the years on countless cars.
just something else to check.

You mentioned a painless rewire.

In the OEM wiring the ammeter is located between the battery and everything else. This is so the ammeter is only registering what is going in or out of the battery.

When the car is operating and the battery is charged the ammeter will read almost nil. All current in the system used by primary systems and accessories will be supplied by the alternator not the battery. If the alternator fails the battery supplies the current and the ammeter gauge swings to discharge.

If the ammeter isn't the last thing before the battery it can cause violent swings in the gauge when accessories are energized.

If it is correctly wired and the swings are violent it could be a bad gauge or sluggish Voltage Regulator as somebody already pointed out.

Did you switch to an Electronic Voltage Regulator?

Thanks for the input, have the electronic regulator, but I have a spare I'll patch in.
I have good grounds to the lights, added gr. wires to the front turn housings.

I'll pull the extra brake and turn lights from the rear too and see what happens.

Thanks again, I shall return.....

Joe

PS, I'll look at the schematic to see where the ammeter is in relation to batt./alt.

Make sure the Electronic VR is wired correctly.

If it is a 72-80's Mopar 2 wire style it should be wired with the green wire (side of the triangular connector) straight to a field on the alternator.
The blue (middle of the triangular connector) connected to the other field and the ignition power feed.

I have seen people mis-wire regulators and get results that charged the battery but acted really weird.

If it is not the 72-80's mopar style and is an electronic version of the 1 wire field wire system, make sure the 1 field wire is un-interupted to the alternator. Nothing else should be connected to it.

If you feel like the gauge is the problem but it is wired correctly just hook another ammeter near the battery. An inline mopar or clamp on test meter should give you an idea if it is a wacky gauge.

Just a thought.

this is the factory setup on all Mopars up to 75/76... just diff bulkhead disposition ( based on 71/74 B bodies and all E bodies )

Seems like the older stuff is more sensitive but then into the 80's & 90's the needle barely moved

Keep in mind the state of the battery has a big influence on he flow of current............

before you rewired was it not acting up?

Quote

PPS Just remembered we changed rear taillights to have dual filaments in all three bulbs each side,
could there be a feedback from that???

did you change and wire the sockets correctly at the same time ??? A dual filament (contact) bulb in a single filament (constact) socket can create a problem

First place I'd start since it's easiest to perform/diagnose.

Yes on the socket change for the dual filament bulbs, my son is pulling those bulbs and will see if it improves the needle fluctuation....

Also, when rewiring the car, I became anal about the grounds and when the front signal housing grounds became intermittent because of age,
I wired two extra wires to the housings, those should be good.

Will try the other ideas when I get to the car.

Thanks folks, Joe