Re: Would like some advise on 2 different Hemi blocks
[Re: Hemi Allstate]
#2906831
04/05/21 10:13 AM
04/05/21 10:13 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,818 fredericksburg,va
cudaman1969
Itch Nutz
|
Itch Nutz
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,818
fredericksburg,va
|
Thanks for the links, I can always count on the guys here. I need some 4.50 + .030 pistons so they might can help
Last edited by cudaman1969; 04/05/21 10:20 AM.
|
|
|
Re: Would like some advise on 2 different Hemi blocks
[Re: mopar dave]
#2908148
04/08/21 06:47 PM
04/08/21 06:47 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,259 Oregon
AndyF
I Win
|
I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,259
Oregon
|
For a long time i have had a dream of building a Hemi for my A body. I don't know much about Hemi's except they cost a lot. 572 street/strip deal. This will be a long term project, but want to get the block and heads right away and collect the rest of the parts over time. Looking at two blocks, Bill Mitchell aluminum block 4.590x10.72 and the other the Indy Maxx aluminum block. The Indy is available in 4.500x9.980 also. Not sure which will be easier to fit my A body, but the short deck might be the ticket. Right now just curious to the quality of these 2 blocks and work need before assembly? Looks like the BM block comes with bushed lifter bores and is a little easier on the wallet than the Indy. Just looking for some opinions for now. Thanks Instead of doing all that work (and spending all that money) why not just buy an aluminum block for your wedge motor? You'll be able to build a 572 wedge for a lot less money and it will fit easier in an A body. Just upgrade the short block and then slide it in there over the winter.
|
|
|
Re: Would like some advise on 2 different Hemi blocks
[Re: mopar dave]
#2908163
04/08/21 07:20 PM
04/08/21 07:20 PM
|
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 664 WI
68hemiss
mopar
|
mopar
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 664
WI
|
Yes, but i'm hearing that some had moved their steering box or the pass inner fender skirt needs modifying . Did the 68ss cars have inner fender skirts? I have a ton of questions on fitment and block pros and cons. The passenger inner fenderwell/shock tower area has to be modified in order to get the valve cover off. If you just mock up the engine and heads in the car, the VC will come off fine, when you add the rocker stands, shafts and rockers, you have to lift the cover off pretty straight and this is where the inner fenderwell becomes a problem. The VC will hit it before you can get it over the valvetrain. The master cylinder is typically offset, there are adapters for this and the MC uses flexible hoses - you have to remove the MC to remove the drivers VC. Another thing is that you have to shorten the jacket on the steering column or it will hit the head. This is pretty easy, remove the jacket, cut it off shorter, add a new hole for the bearing and re-assemble. These cars originally had spacers between the K-frame and the frame to lower the engine - you will have to check and modify for correct bump steer as lowering the K frame throws the steering geometry off. If you are using a motor plate, I would remove the motor mount brackets from the K-frame for more header clearance and oil pump clearance, especially if you are running a dual line system.
|
|
|
Re: Would like some advise on 2 different Hemi blocks
[Re: mopar dave]
#2908206
04/08/21 08:47 PM
04/08/21 08:47 PM
|
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,686 Mt. Eden Ky.
Hemi Allstate
master
|
master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,686
Mt. Eden Ky.
|
How is your Hemi combo running? Does Modern sell heads or are they just a machine/head shop? Dave, I think it runs good. It was meant to be street driven and pump gas friendly and it is. It runs 5.98s at 115.43 consistently @ different strips on different days with a Indy 426-2 and 4150 Race Demon RS carb. I switched to a 426-3 and a Holley Gen 3 Ultra Dominator . Out of the box pass for a base line was disappointing 6.02 @ 115.73 It was way rich,and I didn't get another pass in. So, since then I have been into the Dominator and improved it but no strip data. I do believe it is stronger. I have never had this engine on a dyno and I don't think I have optimized the ET potential of the car with only 15 runs total. It probably could use a higher stall converter for example. But, it is a lot of fun at a cruise . I think the Ray Barton intake is what I need for a next step up in power. But, I don't have room for it using an air filter. I don't know if Modern sells the Stage V heads . I bought mine and sent the heads to Jeff K. (RIP) @ Modern back in 2009. https://www.moderncylinderhead.com/index.html The cam used is a solid roller for street / strip use from Dwayne Porter. I will provide specs if you want them? The crank and rods are from K1 Tech. I believe that was just before Tom Molnar left K1 and went on his own ? 7.100 rods 4.5 X 4.5. bore and stroke . The CP pistons are from FHO 10.5 to 1. I am curious what Bill Mitchell changed for upgrades to the World block. ? I have really enjoyed this Hemi . I am glad that I went that route. Mark
1996 Ram 1500 Sport 1968 road runner 1952 Sears Allstate licensed, pump gas, Hemi 5.98 @ 115.73 1.33 60 ft. The best is yet to come. Painless Performance / Street RODDER magazine Top 100 for 2019
|
|
|
Re: Would like some advise on 2 different Hemi blocks
[Re: 68hemiss]
#2908236
04/08/21 10:45 PM
04/08/21 10:45 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,818 fredericksburg,va
cudaman1969
Itch Nutz
|
Itch Nutz
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,818
fredericksburg,va
|
Yes, but i'm hearing that some had moved their steering box or the pass inner fender skirt needs modifying . Did the 68ss cars have inner fender skirts? I have a ton of questions on fitment and block pros and cons. The passenger inner fenderwell/shock tower area has to be modified in order to get the valve cover off. If you just mock up the engine and heads in the car, the VC will come off fine, when you add the rocker stands, shafts and rockers, you have to lift the cover off pretty straight and this is where the inner fenderwell becomes a problem. The VC will hit it before you can get it over the valvetrain. The master cylinder is typically offset, there are adapters for this and the MC uses flexible hoses - you have to remove the MC to remove the drivers VC. Another thing is that you have to shorten the jacket on the steering column or it will hit the head. This is pretty easy, remove the jacket, cut it off shorter, add a new hole for the bearing and re-assemble. These cars originally had spacers between the K-frame and the frame to lower the engine - you will have to check and modify for correct bump steer as lowering the K frame throws the steering geometry off. If you are using a motor plate, I would remove the motor mount brackets from the K-frame for more header clearance and oil pump clearance, especially if you are running a dual line system. Why would lowering the k-frame change bump steer? Nothing changes except the distance between upper arm and lower arm pivots points, 1/2”? steering components stay in same spot.
Last edited by cudaman1969; 04/08/21 10:45 PM.
|
|
|
Re: Would like some advise on 2 different Hemi blocks
[Re: mopar dave]
#2908394
04/09/21 11:44 AM
04/09/21 11:44 AM
|
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,686 Mt. Eden Ky.
Hemi Allstate
master
|
master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,686
Mt. Eden Ky.
|
Don't know what your car weights, but that hemi runs real good either way. So, about a 10.5:1 pump gas deal? You can pm me the cam specs if you like as i'm curious, but i'm thinking something like 265 to maybe 275@50 with 11.5 to 12.0:1. Dave the CP pistons have a 1.37 CH and Tim said they were 10.5 to 1 . and yes it is a pump gas deal. It makes things so easy for street driving. You are real close on the cam. The cam is .674 int and exhaust is .657 with the Stage V rockers 1.6 and 1.56 ratios respectively . Lobe lift .421 Duration @ .050 is 264 int. and 270 ex. LSA is 112 * . This combo works well, and it is a handful on the street. If I were doing more strip than street I might up the compression to 11-1 and a little more cam, but then street and strip is a compromise and I will stay where I am with this for now. On the strip it revs fast and I am often over revving first gear 1-2 shift. I need more seat time. Thanks, Mark
1996 Ram 1500 Sport 1968 road runner 1952 Sears Allstate licensed, pump gas, Hemi 5.98 @ 115.73 1.33 60 ft. The best is yet to come. Painless Performance / Street RODDER magazine Top 100 for 2019
|
|
|
Re: Would like some advise on 2 different Hemi blocks
[Re: mopar dave]
#2908398
04/09/21 12:00 PM
04/09/21 12:00 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 18,048 S.E. Michigan
ZIPPY
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 18,048
S.E. Michigan
|
Always wanted to know what makes a Hemi tick and want to learn all i can about them. Yep, same. I can't help much on the aluminum block selection as I only collected iron, because of where I used to work/once in a lifetime deals that came along. There is alot of good information availble from folks here, I got plenty of excellent advice with mine. One thing that almost got me is, the length of time it takes to get all the air out of the valvetrain. It can cause a little bit of doubt. It was Exactly like Bob George said it would be, 20 years ago. Anyway I did a similar combo with less compression and cam than you are talking about, in an iron block with Victor heads. I never had a HP goal but am hoping for 600-something at the rear wheels. I deliberately left room to grow by not porting the heads, and by starting with a smaller-than-optimal intake manifold. Fired 4-26-20 and now am getting the car ready. Good luck in your quest.
Rich H.
Esse Quam Videri
|
|
|
Re: Would like some advise on 2 different Hemi blocks
[Re: mopar dave]
#2908437
04/09/21 02:10 PM
04/09/21 02:10 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 154 Canada
cuda499
member
|
member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 154
Canada
|
I should not have to lower the K anyway as i plan on using a T ram. Hood clearance doesn't mean much because of the T ram, but i may use that Barton short T ram. My last pump gas hemi made 986 on pump gas. Was 11.4:1, with a solid roller that was a decent size.... bigger then any of the others mentioned. The engine was 572 cubes and used a indy1RA head. Building a new combo now and i looked at the victor heads, and decided on the stage5 through barton..
|
|
|
Re: Would like some advise on 2 different Hemi blocks
[Re: powertrip]
#2908462
04/09/21 03:57 PM
04/09/21 03:57 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 154 Canada
cuda499
member
|
member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 154
Canada
|
Everyone is suggesting Stage V or the Eddy Victors, even the guys that have used Indy hemi heads in the past. I really like the cast in pedestals of the Indy's, plus they have some big valve options, what am I missing? Eddy's cant be beat for the price, and if you want all the power buy the stage 5 millennium's. Indy's [censored] dont make the power, there is a million factors. I do like the rocker stands cast into the head as well, but you know all stage 5 stuff is hipped..... is indy?
|
|
|
Re: Would like some advise on 2 different Hemi blocks
[Re: powertrip]
#2908463
04/09/21 04:04 PM
04/09/21 04:04 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 18,048 S.E. Michigan
ZIPPY
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 18,048
S.E. Michigan
|
Everyone is suggesting Stage V or the Eddy Victors, even the guys that have used Indy hemi heads in the past. I really like the cast in pedestals of the Indy's, plus they have some big valve options, what am I missing? After I saw a couple of them with the pedestals busted off I stopped considering them. Not sure how common an issue that is, but I do know for sure: I don't want to find out.
Rich H.
Esse Quam Videri
|
|
|
Re: Would like some advise on 2 different Hemi blocks
[Re: mopar dave]
#2908530
04/09/21 08:35 PM
04/09/21 08:35 PM
|
Superfreak
Unregistered
|
Superfreak
Unregistered
|
The Stage V's for starters require machine work (porting), the victors are supposed to be good out of the box. Stage V was having a bad quality issue with the castings being badly pitted but they solved the issue. My Stage V custom heads were sent out to me with the bad pitting (I have pics) and I sent them back and waited over a year to get new heads. The stage V's, according to Tim Banning, are supposed to be a much stronger material than the victors and my new heads are very nice, all machine work done by FHO. Thankfully Eric at Stage V kept me updated as to their progress with solving the issue and was adamant that I get a quality product. Power wise, if the heads both breath the same volume than the power should be the same and yes, one costs a lot more than the other.
Last edited by Superfreak; 04/09/21 08:37 PM.
|
|
|
|
|