Does Edelbrock have a B intake?
What are my options?
Thanks

Edelbrock does not make an intake for a B block. I have converted many 383 intakes to EFI but it costs about $600 for my labor.

Another option is is to use the new FAST EZ-EFI that requires no modification to your manifold. You can check it out on my web site.

Electromotive TEC 3r - ignition and efi all in one.(patented) Last one I priced was around $1800.

What modifications to ignition do I need to make? Will either work with the new Pertronix Ignitor III billet distributor?

Good question. A bank-to-bank system (like the EM) uses "waste spark" ignition and gets by with just a crank signal. But for full sequential injection, and ignition, you need both a crank and a cam signal. The easiest way to get both signals is with a dual-sync distributor. This is what the FAST, Accel DFI and the new Edelbrock systems do. In the EM case case your Pertronix would only route the spark. For the others it would have to be replaced.

If you go with a throttle body style injection such as the EZ-EFI, then you use the Pertronix as-is with no modifications.

Here is mine I ran it on my 454(383 block)
Sold the car with out the EFI And will be installing it on a 383 that I have.

Electromotive

Quote:

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Standard features built in to the TEC³:
# PC programmable and configurable for 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, cyl. engines and Rotories with a 12 cyl.and 6 cyl dual plug option
# Operate in Open or Closed loop
# Run True Sequential, Phased Sequential or Simultaneous Injection with individual cylinder trim
# Configurable for TBI, MPI, TPI and individual throttle bodies
# Additional Injector Output Drivers built-in.. Run Low or High impedance injectors
# Full 150 mJ of Spark Energy directly to the plugs without misfire
# New Dual Rev Limiters with ‘Triple Smooth Technology’.. 1st step retards timing to a negative -12º degrees.. 2nd step cuts coil current in half.. 3rd step coil current and fuel are cut-off.. all three steps occurring within milliseconds!
# Waste Gate (Boost Control), Nitrous Control with up to 4 stage retard available
# Four Programmable GPO’s (General Purpose Outputs) to control or activate VTEC, Shift Lights, Water Pumps and Fans, A/C Compressor, Torque Converter and more.
# New Programmable Adjustable Electronic Tachometer Output
# Uses primarily GM type sensors
# Diagnostic monitoring with codes issued through Check Engine Light
# Easy to install bolt-on Trigger Wheel and Mag Sensor Kits available for many applications
# Made in the USA
New On-Board Data Acquistion
# Adjustable Sample Rates up to 100 samples per second Simultaneously record data from up to 25 inputs including: Air/fuel Ratios, Injector Duty Cycle and Pulse Width, RPM and Throttle Position, Gear Position, MPH, Boost (manifold pressure) and much more!
# Additional configurable Digital and Analog Input Channels View Multiple Data Graphs side by side or Graphs may be overlayed for comparison Graphic Screen Displays may be Printed and
# Data may also be exported to a Spreadsheet program for further analysis Data Logging can be started and stopped manually using a switch, or the system can be configured to automatically start and stop via values pre-set by the user
The TEC³ Engine Management System will run the following configurations:
# 4 Cylinder
# 6 Cylinder
# 8 Cylinder
# 4 Cylinder, Dual Plug
# Staged Injection
# Sequential Injection

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You cannot run sequential injection (regardless of which EFI system you are talking about) without a cam signal! That's just physics. The base EM system is bank-to-bank and it uses waste spark because it only has 4 coil drivers! Check it's own specs:

Sequential operation is also available through the use of a cam position sensor.
The Tec3-r uses the following inputs to perform engine management:
Crank Trigger
Cam Trigger (optional)
Manifold Air Pressure
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Manifold Air Temperature Sensor
Throttle Position Sensor
Knock Sensor (optional)
Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor (O2 sensor)

Once you realize you need BOTH crank and cam sensors you have many systems you can go with - that same set that I mentioned above plus Electromotive as well. But the basic problem - how are you going to get the cam signal? Still exists! I was just trying to offer several methods that will work (with any system).


BurntOrange has to understand this, lest he will run into some low priced system that just don't work as well as expected.

Correct you need the cam signal. Contact Hesco in Al they could set you up with anything you want for electromotive.

nobody has asked the basic question of what do you plan on doing with this car and what is your budget? do you need sequential? do you need coil on plug? do you want to spend about $4000 to get it all together? there are alot of efi systems out there and some are really simple and some are really exotic. i put together a system for my daily driver that cost less than $1000 complete. yes i did use some ebay parts and yes i used some junkyard parts but my system got me 90% of the way to really good running engine that was light years ahead of a carb.

I would like a throttle body style system that'll work with a Pertronix billet Ignitor III distributor.
Daily drivability for my 69 Fury. $1,000- 1,800 looks possible.

You can spend anywhere from $1000 to $5000 depending on how much you want to do yourself.

Some folks insist sequential is the only way to go, but batch works well. Heck, even a throttle body setup will be superior to a carb for drivability (carb folks disagree, of course).

Megasquirt is a good low-buck controller for folks wanting to do it themselves.

If you want throttle body injection:
http://www.wilsonmanifolds.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=110

The benefit to the above unit is that it uses port-style injectors, which gives lots of injector options for $250 (or less).

Or get a Holley Commander 4-injector type off Ebay. Holley's ECMs have a bad reputation on the 'net, so consider a different controller. Getting injectors large enough to feed a 451 in a Holley-type TBI is expensive (there are only 4 injectors, so they are lots higher flowrate).

The Holley also uses proprietary parts, whereas most of the other aftermarket stuff tends to use OEM sensors, etc.

You can look at retrotek injection.
Powerjection III is a nice and clean setup.

Some points on EFI and EFI intake designs
1) Tunnel rams work very well for EFI
2) Ensure the rail retention system doesn't not block access to the intake manifold bolts of it will be a pain to get at them.
3) Plumb the return side of the rails from the highest side of the rails (helps with air getting out of the rails as fuel flows
4) You can run sequential without a CAM signal, though what that would do depends on the controller. Testing on my home brew controller it makes 0 difference to idle quality on an agressive motor whether the injection pulse is 0 or any 90degree increment out of phase with the valve timing. I do it to average out fuel delivery and prevent pressure fluctuations that 8 or 4 injector batch systems might suffer from when dealing with a borderline pump flow.
5) TBI systems probable work fine, though from the 3 OEM systems I've owned (92 spirit, 87 GMC Truck, some stupid monza) they all sucked. Weren't tuned well, didn't do well as winter vehicles (hard starting), always seem to need injector cleaner or they go crappy. Most of that has to do with the design of the injector itself, but where the injector is in the intake will matter. Going TBI means using an intake that works well for carbs/wet flow.
6) Return lines don't need to be larger than the supply lines. AN-6 line on a 600HP pump at full flow results in negligible pressure in the return line, and it's regulated relative to atmospheric or manifold air pressure anyways and doesn't really care what the return line pressure is so long as it is significantly below what your pressure side is designed for, and it will be with the same line size. And returning above the fuel level must be a wives tale, it make no difference to return line fuel pressure either, and I like mine returning to the sump on my tank so it will cool off with the rest of the fuel rather that pour down onto the fuel losing it's volatile elements as excess vapors.
7) use a sump if at all possible. Pumps don't like running dry when you are nearly out of fuel and hit the brakes or turn a corner etc. The pump will survive but without fuel to lube it, it's not a good thing.

Personally I'd do the por tinjection. Cost to convert is roughly 400-500 bucks depending on the shop doing the work. There are several board members that do it, and using them will improve yoru support with questions before and after the fact. I did get my first intake done by an outfit that I wont' recommend (design of rail hold downs poor, thread in bungs looked like [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean], both pairs of rails incorrectly sized causing fuel rail leaks that I had to fix with epozy and sandpaper. And the bungs were positioned poorly leading to what I believe was the injector spray pattern probably puddling on the bung walls leading to poor cold start behavior. Later with different injectors and a better understanding of my tune, I had awesome cold start performance so maybe it was just my tune. I like my tunnel ram due to the improve characteristics that an EFI motor can take advantage of, like a large plenum and pretty much uncompromised dry air flow characteristics. I also take advantage of the port injection by using a throttle body that doesn't have to be located on top of the intake which menas I stuff a whole tunnel ram under the hood which a touch of that sleeper mentallity that I can still embrace

Greg

Also be sure to keep in mind the time factor involved with an efi conversion.

How long will it take you to accumulate, install and tune a conventional carb, intake, fuel pump and distributor? Not that long really, versus a port EFI system in which you are modifying tanks for sumps, changing the entire fuel system, modifying intakes, throttle bodies, fuel rails, etc etc etc there is a lot of fabrication there and a good amount of time tuning. No doubt the final result is superior, but only you can decide if it's worth all the time, money and effort.