i don't have room for the type of restraints that are a flat "C" shape that bolts onto tabs welded onto the upper and lower bars.
any other ideas out there ? alston used to offer a couple of tabs that welded to the bar sides with spacers that allowed the bolts to be tightened up and still allow the bars to rotate, but i can't find them now.
i may be looking in the wrong place, or calling them by the wrong name.
as always, TIA fellows !

This what you are looking for? Looks like there are a couple kits.
http://www.cachassisworks.com/c-419-ladder-bar-hardware.aspx

that's it !
i was looking under alston, not chassis works.
thank you sir !
i'm pretty sure i can use those. the only thing that may screw me up, is if the bolt is 3/4", as i need a set for a 5/8" bolt. i'll call them to find out.
thanks again !

No problem. Instructions says 5/8" bolts are included.
http://www.cachassisworks.com/Attachments/Instructions/916238.pdf

My car is an Alston chassis. That is the type of ladder bar ends on it. Work good....

Me too. I like them.

They work great and don't take a lot of room. Hope you never need them..

I used the Alston kit, but had the inside machined to allow for adjustment.

6289_AT by Greg Ault, on Flickr

P1010002 by Greg Ault, on Flickr

P1010005 by Greg Ault, on Flickr

Maybe too much adjustment there?

hmmm. never thought of that.
i would think a guy should use a tab on both sides of the bar ?
but two kits ? but then, you would have to modify a wrench to tighten the lock nut ? [get the wrench between the tabs]

Hmmmm never new they were suppose to be welded ,must have miss that part.

This thread has me thinking ...how often do you all replace the hems on you ladder bar cars? I have a friend that has a 4.70-4.80 car and i remember him saying he replace his every year(i thought that was over kill)am i wrong?.......I did not start a new thread so i thought i'll piggy back off this one sense it's slightly off subject.

Kinda defeats the purpose... you basically took most if not all the strength out of the tab. I use these on all my ladder bar installs, I don't weld them on until the rear end is set in place.
As far as heim replacement goes, it really depends on the use, higher HP and amount of used dictate. even then its a crap shoot.

On ladder bars the Heim can be solid (no rotating) so why wouldn’t the strap add to the heim strength? Then you would literally have to break the end of the bar off.. straps, heim, bolts, all

Lots of interesting replies. The purpose of the restraint is to keep the bar from disconnecting from the car (possibly damaging the track) when the heim fails. Yes, you can run 2 of the Alston restraints on either side of the heim if you're NOT running a diagonal link. I don't see much of a difference between this type of restraint and the traditional (but more bulky) restraint in front of the heim.



P1010005 by Greg Ault, on Flickr

not a problem X !
my concern for adding these safety restraints is in the event i get this [never ending !] project done, and end up with an engine that will tax the rod ends, i don't want the possibility of a "pole vault" event if the rod end breaks. especially at speed.
with that said, and your question about rod end replacement, is it possible to miss a shank thread starting to fail, yet still have no movement or wear in the ball and head of the joint ?

Of the few I’ve seen broken it just sheared off, the reason Alston went to the 1” diameter solid end. If you need the swivel type your whole setup is out of square.

I would hate to think a bad single thread would make for a bad day i mean those shanks go pretty far done in those bars.

I would imagine a high horsepower /heavy car/hooking track can put a lot of stress on those hems.

Everything goes through those ends