Hello, make sure you use factory parts, or use a after market pan.

More pictures please of that engine bay b1Frank, it looks awesome! What headers are those?

Hi Larry I skimmed over some of the post but did not read them all.

BUT a truck rear sump pan is needed and a front sump or center sump will not fit the truck chassis.

I have everything needed for a swap into your 79 truck but I do not have a booster. myself with disc on the front & rear later I would do manual brake. the small booster is tight as well.

best headers are the hedman 79250, they fit 2x & 4x4 chassis.

you just need a good empty BB 727 case to swap your SB 727 guts into and xfer all bolts up in stock location

the high mount PS is the one needed the lower mounted ones from a car hit the frame. I don't like cutting it to fit them.

your wire harness will adapt easy enough.

if you have a truck or late model WP housing on the BB the 79 rad hooks up and should work fine. mine do.

if you really want to do it I have the NV4500 2x 5 speed you can convert to 4x4 and have a manual granny 5 speed 4x4 but that's a lot more cash than just swaping in the BB engine.

I only wish I had a running 4x4 to swap a 440 into right now. I would already be wrenching. as you know I have already had a 79 RC back in the day.

440/435/205 with a 6" skyjacker lift, 4.56gear D60 front & rear with lockers turning 17/40/15 ground hawgs. "the ol'goat" don't get me wron my 2 trucks a fun but not like a BB 4x4 kind of fun.

Interesting. Are you talking piston slap or is that a different term?

So much to deal with. I need a shop around the corner that has done a couple. Mike, I have a high mount PS pump. Really prefer to stay 727 auto. I do love manuals with that granny gear, but my left leg gets tired quick and I want to drive it a lot.

I read I'll need truck oil pan for sure.

I really don't want to lift the truck anymore than stock (it does have bigger tires), but I did buy the "add-a-leaf" as recommended on another thread to level front with rear (https://www.offroaddesign.com/1-zero-rate-add-a-leaf-kit-2-1-2-wide.html) so maybe that's enough for booster clearance. I want stock valve covers.

I'm taking notes. I'm vacillating between built small block and the cubes of a big block with all the necessary mods/swaps. As written before, I really think I would need to buy a crate engine. I'll have enough to deal with just with peripherals.

I think I may still have 1 or 2 truck oil pans laying around. Think I may have a high mount pump, also. now I'm curious, have to make a trip to farm and see what I do have. Jim EDIT I have 2 used pans, and 1 hi-mount P/S pump and bracket, if your still looking.

If you were to look at the stroker piston and a late model engine piston you would see it's not an issue. The stroker piston isn't really a short piston in comparison to engines built today. Let's do some math. The difference between a 4" stroke and a 3.58" stroke is .42". Half of that moves the pin up .21" . That is less than 1/4" . The only reason to shorten the skirt is for crankshaft counter weight clearance and maybe a little skirt to rod clearance. Again, not a big deal. I built a couple stroker small blocks and none of these were an issue. Shortening a skirt reduces piston weight and this is where most aftermarket and late model pistons save weight. If you were really worried about it you could use a 6" chevy rod then the pin height would only change .087" .

I would love to get this parts vehicle I'm looking at online but I don't think it has any linkages. I have some more questions to ask. I wish I had room at my house for parts vehicle.

I'll update on parts vehicle and mancini stuff.

What do you think is better? Spending $500-$1000 on a big block parts vehicle (no engine) for the mounts, booster, etc. or just buying from mancini and other suppliers? It seems like a parts truck will have better fitting stuff

So, it's a factory BB truck missing its engine? Is it a 4wd truck? How hacked/trashed is the rest of the truck?

As shown by moparmarks, with the right stock valve covers, a 440 will clear the booster, so this may not be a mandatory part.

Any linkage present?

A majority of the wiring is just a matter of extending a few wires.

I'd take a quick inventory at what that parts truck has on it and do a little comparison shopping.

You might be able to sell off/scrap what's left of the parts truck when you're done to offset costs.

If you're buying it JUST for booster and mounts, go aftermarket.

John no engine. I'm waiting to hear back if the linkages are there. He said he would go out and look after rain stopped.

OK. You mention 'linkages', if you're retaining the same style transmission, the main thing that is different is the kickdown and throttle cable bracket. On my truck, the kickdown from the car was a one piece rod that wouldn't clear the firewall. The 400 truck had a two piece (three piece?) kick down. Not sure how well an aftermarket kickdown cable would work instead.

Yes I'm sorry I should be referring to it as "kickdown". I don't hear great things about Bouchillan cable. Maybe I can find a used one out there to buy.

If the engine is gone don't count on the engine mounts still being there. Plus you'll still need the oil pan and pick up, trans linkage, manifolds, etc.

Agreed , I doubt any of that is there . Any BB 3 piece kick down set up will work ,probably better off buying the parts separate. the booster is the same for the HD trucks 200(250)300(350) trucks

“Any BB 3 piece kick down set up will work”
Good to know

Yeah! Scratchn was just telling that! Much rather have that than Bouchillon cable

Okay, I'm going to place order for BB any day now. I'm ready to order. I MUST get a complete engine assembly. I cannot build one myself. I see Blueprint engines does not have big blocks. I probably would've considered them. I don't like what I've read recently on CME's. Edelbrock only has two Mopar crates both Gen3 426 c.i.d. Mopar Performance doesn't even have an assembled crate engine 440.

So two questions really; I'm thinking I should get a RB right? Or should I be thinking just BB? 2nd question; is there a slam dunk crate engine builder right now? What am I thinking? Standard bore 440, edelbrock aluminum heads and intake, probably roller cam setup and smooth idle don't want real lopey cam. Not looking to make racer out of truck and will have stock valve covers and Chrysler blue paint. Thanks.

Anyone familiar with Blue Monkey Performance Parts in AZ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/123999898830?

Meeting in person with an engine builder on Friday

I didn't mind mine either but did swap to 2 center dump and ditched the rear dump on pass side. that makes it flow about as equal as you can get for manifolds. BUT I have the hedman 79250 headers now and would not go back to manifolds.