RWG i was going to ask if it was a 400 block used in the build, but i see where you specified 440, I read the low deck blocks clearance is better

Maybe find a donor truck?

That is what I did way back when. I found a '77 400 truck that had been wrecked. Never did understand what exactly happened. Truck still ran and drove surprisingly good despite the damage to the bumper and grill. The weird thing was on the side of the impact, the side of the block was broke off too. When I pulled the mount out, it still had a chunk of block attached to it. You could see the cylinder wall...... But it ran beautifully.

I stripped the truck of everything I needed and then some, and sold hat was left to a co-worker that made a trailer out of the back half . Probably the only time I came out ahead on parts.

Before I found this wrecked one for parts, I can't tell you how many 440 trucks I found with a 2bbl on it............. (they weren't 440's)

I went the donor truck route but didn't take the booster. I swapped out the booster and master for an older model reman on my '80.

Do those stock manifolds flow ok or get to hot?

Couple of things I prefer: I would prefer running some type of headers. I have hedman ultra flows right now on my 360 (obviously won't transfer over to big block. I don't want to lift the truck past stock for any clearance. Just not my preference in looks. I have 33's on it now and that's the biggest tire I would want also. I don't think I'll ever find a donor big block truck in this area, and I really like the idea of a crate engine. Already built, as I'm not able to build it myself. Possibly something with aluminum heads (I know costly but helps with weight reduction for adding a big block. Even just the aluminum intake will make up some). A donor truck would be great for all the peripheral parts, I get that, but finding, storing, and tearing apart is problem. I don't have the facilities for that either. I'm going to take a look in my city though, and if there's one right here, probably can't turn that down. I'll pay my buddy to store, etc.

If I stayed with small block, I'd even prefer sell the current factory 360-4 for a built 360/408. Less down time and choosing of parts, etc.

I have this guy 15 minutes from me, good feedback, that I could consider https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-440-...et-strip-540hp-ready-2-run/333610445321?

Also, Brevard Cylinder Head (Vic), which I know a lot of you are familiar with.

Thats fine now prepare for the other 10k to finish the job unless you can do it all your self.

I couldn't tell you for sure, the one I threw together was a 4x4 chassis.

The one real 440 2 wd truck I had had the truck oil pan on it, leaking dipstick tube and all. It been a long time ago, but I doubt you could have pulled that truck pan off the motor without raising the motor. I think the car pan's sump would be pretty close to the same place the 2wd cross member is. Gene

I thought they were ok, but, no one here likes stock manifolds.

Thanks, I’ll pull the front end off to get a good look on how it all fits. Then make up a set of shorty headers too.

No I can't do it all myself. I'm aware all the costs associated when doing a swap, and I know it gets heavy. I've done several crate engine/trans swaps. That's why I'm asking, and considering staying small block. I've swapped crate 360/727 into several 318/A999 cars and all kinds of unexpected come up, I know. Mounts, linkages, driveshaft length, brackets, and on and on.


Thanks.

Has anyone got a 100k miles out of a stroker small block? I have read about stokers with 40k miles needing a rering already. 100k plus reliability is why I am going with a big block.

I only have about 8k on mine, so I'll be interested in the responses on this. Never heard of issues like this on strokers.

Shorty pistons are gonna have a lot of rock in that short bore. The reason 3.58 was the most Chrysler could push it and live a long life.

Couple that with the increased side loading from the longer stroke.

A few years ago, I sold all of the big block hardware off of a 77 w-100 I picked up, when I talked to the guy a little while back, he still had the stuff. PM me for his number Jim.

None of those things are really an issue. The taller deck of the Mopar is still better than the chevy. I think the problem is the things run so well they get hammered on a lot. The blocks are not that great so things move around a bit especially at 7000 RPM and that is where the problems come in. If you were to build a lower RPM torque engine for a truck the reliability and longevity shouldn't be an issue.

Totally respectfully disagree.

I used factory parts, mine is a 72 413 with a complete rebuild , no exhaust manifolds #452 unleaded heads.

Just did some more measuring, gotta use the truck pan, or make one, no way around it.